UKC

Any one done the south arête on sass de stria dolomites? am aware the belay stations are in place what gear? cheers Rich

In reply to Removed User:

This one?South Arête (IV+)

The occasional peg from what I remember.

In reply to Mike-W-99:

Yes Thanks for that.

In reply to Removed User:

Did it years ago, and it's a pretty good, albeit very popular, intro to the Dolomites. Loads of in-situ gear and cemented belays - possibly too many as it can get confusing.

In reply to Removed User:

Fixed belays (ring bolts from memory) and good natural gear, seem to recall placing nuts mostly. Good route, apparently pass the cockstone on the right. I did it on the left and it was a fight.

In reply to Removed User:
Make sure you read the description for pitch 6 in particular! It's all too easy to get suckered in to going straight up.

It's a really nice route and will likely be quite busy if it's a good day, thus, start early or be prepared to queue.

In reply to Removed User:

As the other said, plenty of pegs - not so many threads as you'll find in other areas. Pitch 6 - yep watch out tht you keep left - it looks all wrong but its the way. Also make sure you do the slightly stiffer straight up variant on the last pitch - its a really nice pitch. And the route down is really cool - take a head torch so you can explore some of the tunnels!

In reply to Casa Alfredino:

Thanks guys walked past the route many times going to bivi at top of the pass so early start looking forward to climbing the arête!!

In reply to Removed User:

Course the other way is to rock up in the early afternoon when the crowds have already passed through and do it in a few hours...

In reply to Removed User:

Equipped belays throughout. Occasional peg but nuts and a few cams will suffice. Get on it early or face a crowd and don't let people overtake you and then end up keeping you waiting like I did !!

In reply to Casa Alfredino:

Pretty sure you need to keep *right* here and not left? basically at the belay there's a peg directly above you, clip it and go rightwards...down a bit through the tunnel thing and up a wee chimney.

This is a photo from the belay showing the peg and the direction the rope goes in is showing where to go.
http://prog99.com/Summer%20Holidays/Dolomites%20-%202013/Hexenstein/slides/... (we ran a couple of the lower pitches together so it was pitch 5 for us) but this is looking up pitch 6 as per the description on UKC.

In reply to Fiona Reid:

Ahhhhh bugger talking at crossed purposes - I meant the pitch before where you climb the left side of the arete! Sorry! My brains a bit foggy! I remember trying to go right on that pitch because there was a groove which looked much easier than it was and feeling perplexed until I realised the arete to the left was covered in jugs despite being steep...

In reply to Casa Alfredino:

No problem... I guess with us having learned the hard way what happens if you go the wrong way on pitch 6 I have a pretty good memory of that part of the route!

In reply to Fiona Reid:

Straight up the arete is superb but roughly VII-

In reply to Removed User:

Chockstone not cockstone. On a phone without my readers.