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UKC FitClub week 485

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 Dandan 03 Jul 2016
Good morning all!

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=644579

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s posters;

AJM - I think I once tried Lunacy Booth and got psyched out by the bolts hanging out of the wall, I guess its ok/rebolted now? (Or my memory has betrayed me and it wasn't that route...)
James Moyle - Welcome back, here’s hoping the significance of your new route name fades from memory one day…
humptydumpty - How was Snowdonia?
Biscuit - Good work stopping when you sense impending injury/damage, probably the hardest lesson for me to learn so far!
SidH - Thats a lot of bouldering in on week, no wonder your skin is ruined!
Tyler - Campus board seems to be a good indicator of, well, nothing much at all, there are so many ways to be good at climbing!
Leeboy1985 - Did you stick to a strict diet this week? You seem keen to drop that kilo.
Dandan82 - Keep training!
Ian Bell - I found Mr ChooChoo hard work, have yet to tick it despite a couple of goes, it’s surprisingly powerful isnt it.
D1, sorry, jas128 - Welcome! I’ sure you know this but you need volume volume volume to get back into the swing of things.
Hms - Was your Ben West session a coaching session? I guess he’ll be doing a lot of that now with his broken toe…
Emily - Possily AWOL this week, have fun wherever you are going!
Ally Smith - Nice job on Bullet! Sometimes that low expectation/relaxed approach yields great results.
Nick Russell - Another potential AWOL, hope you are having fun!
Heelhookofglory - Thanks for explaining your goals, fighting a fear of heights must need some serious effort
TonyB - Good call on aberration, to misquote betting shops, ‘when the fun stops, stop’ It will still be there when the urge returns.
Just Tintin - How were your weather choices this week, get outside?
 Climbthatpitch 03 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan

Yeah I was 80kg about 2 months ago and then went on holiday and ate/drunk way too much and have now paid a 5kg price tag on being indulgent lol. There are lots of things I could do to improve my climbing but really want to get my weight back down.
Well I didn't drink Cider this week. I expressed to my better half not to buy none and being amazing she never. She did bring home a bottle of vodka instead so I epic failed and helped her drink it with lots of coke . Didn't really stick to that. Oh well better be more specific this week lol

Last weeks goals
Lose weight - drop from 85kg to 84kg - Fail still 85kg

Next week STG
Lose weight drop from 85kg to 84kg - No Alcohol
Get a new pair of trail running shoes because mine give me really bad blisters this week. Need to speak to someone who knows what they are on about

MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route

LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter

BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Core and Strength training
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - Run, 50 min, slow pace 10:39 min miles, 4.8 miles 87 ft height gain
Friday - Indoor climbing. 6 boulders up to grade 6a+. Routes up to 6a dogged both 6a's really feel like I had a lack of stamina as kept pumping out on the routes.
Saturday - 1 hour 40 min run from Nuedd around Corn Ddu and pen Y fan and back down the roman road. Slow pace 13:22 min miles, 7.5 miles 1800 ft height gain.
Sunday - Went to Wintours leap. Was going to do right hand route but forgot the guidebook and due to time constrictions took a quick route up - Corner Buttress Route 2 (VD 4a)

Happy training
Lee
 jas128 03 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Looks like D1 is going to stick!

M - Karting. Other half is really into karting and seeing as I introduced him to climbing, it was his turn to show me karting. Turns out its a lot of hard work on arms, core and back, but v fun!
T - Walk into Durham. 2 miles in and 2 out. Turns out Durham is v hilly! And got caught in the rain on the way back
W - Nothing except a v v short dog walk
Th - DCC, back on the spotty 5-6b circuit. Ticked the remaining ones that I didn't get done the last session, bar 1 which a local said was much easier when they had another volume up for a foot, then first few of the other 5-6b (ish) circuit. Skin didn't give up as soon! They have a comp round going on currently so will hopefully be able to have a go at that when I'm back from the Lakes.
F - Travel to Lakes
S - Rubbish weather. So no walk, food shop and time in Ambleside instead.
S - Old Dungeon Ghyll, up to Sickle Tarn. Turns out I am rubbish at walking up hill, but pretty speedy going back down.

So only 1 climbing session this week, but should be doing quite a bit of walking, and maybe a wall session in the Lakes this week. Will have to see what the weather does!

STG (July) - get fit! In particular - lose exam weight, get my callouses bac, manage a decent length session!
MTG (Summer) - Climb 2 times a week (and not just bouldering) plus core and fingerboarding, up to 6c lead, and boulder to the same level as hms. Hopefully, sort out job, move etc
LTG (2016) - If moved, get into a good fitness routine on my own. If not, continue to climb 2-3 times a week plus core/fingerboarding. Lead back to 7a/+
 Si dH 03 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

2016 goals:

- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night

- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- 8a

M: rest
T: Two FoC benchmarking aeropow sessions, one before work and one in evening. Absolute performance had dropped since last week, especially in the morning. Think I was only part awake and it was maybe a bit moist in the cellar.
W: rest
T: Fingerboard max hang session. 4 finger 18mm edge 4x10s with +29.9kg, then 4x10s front 3 on the big bm2000 pockets with +34.5kg (this is all the weight I have - it wasnt my max but not miles off.) Then 4 (with each arm) x ~8s one arm hangs on the good pockets, using thumb to help.
F: rest plus shoulder rehab work.
S: Morning session on Mentalist. Warmed up then got on it. Minor beta improvement of bringing my thumb into play as a poor pinch helped stop my fingers moving on the roof pocket mid-crux. I had a couple of good goes and would have done it on one but just missed the hold exiting the crux, which is blind. Had a good rest, thought it would go...then pulled on and my right middle two flexor unit went just as I was mid crux. Sharp pain, bollocks.
S: feeling fed up about being injured...bit gutted as I was supposed to be out again this afternoon/evening.

Injury catalogue: left index finger no change. Shoulder not great this week especially after Thursdaynight, still being too lazy with rehab. Now watching right middle finger closely in the hope that it'sok by Tuesday-ish

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 0lb.

Si
 Tyler 03 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> Campus board seems to be a good indicator of, well, nothing much at all, there are so many ways to be good at climbing!
The second part of that statement is true but I know that if I had the strength to foot off campus I'd be a much better climber.

Awful training week but fantastic (largely) non-climbing weekend
M: Rest
T: Depot, felt well off it. Rubbish on the warm ups, rubbish on the board so decided it might be time for something new. Did some FoC but as I managed only 54 secs on the med rungs I disconsolately went home.
W: Worked too late to even make it to yoga.
T: Back to Depot and felt shit on the warm ups once more. Shoulder felt sore and did get better so, for once in my life, I did the sensible thing and left.
F: Travelled to Hemel Hempstead and checked into hotel just in time to see Wales equalise and then beat Belgium. Still can't believe it today, absolutely bonkers, are too much, drank too much.
S: Spent the morning hooning around a track in. Lamborghini, an Ariel Atom and Aston courtesy of Mrs T. Spent the afternoon and evening eating too much, watching footy and reading Auto Trader (Ariel Atoms are a good investment!). Didn't sleep well through over eating
S: Woke up still stuffed. Started to put clips in bottom half of Dominatrix but was reminded that my shoulder was in a bad way. Had another go up got quite high but lowered of in some pain. Took some ibuprofen and had one last go to see how knackered I was and sent! First time I'd got to the top crux from the ground. Lovely afternoon spent chatting and belaying with some great folk. Stoked, brilliant weekend.
 biscuit 03 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan.

Not a bad week. Got back on The Bulge and have now got it sorted into 3 links. Bottom to knee bar (6b++ section), knee bar to flake (13 move V5 crux), flake to top (12 move V4/5 redpoint crux). In this session i got the kneebar position sorted, found a sequence that works (ish) for exiting the knee bar (need to refine it next time to see if it works on redpoint) and finally got to grips with the steep top section. I went from waving at the bowling ball hold as it sailed on by in a blur to being able to get it and adjust on it, feeling reasonably steady.

Plan now is to spend some time refining the crux each session but concentrate on working from the top down. This weeks target should be crimp rail to top. However i should really have got that sorted on my last go of the day but got my leg caught in the rope and was then a bit tired. If i get that sorted quickly it'll be from the flake to the top as a goal.

Had 4 goes up it and felt ok on Tuesday. Bodes well and previously it was 3 and i was wasted and still felt sore two days after.

I've done 2 FoC tests this week. 1st the 1-3-5 protocol and the second 1-2-3. I got lots of numbers and have sent them off to coach Kettle to make some sense of. I suspect they will show what i know. Not fit enough for 8a!
 AJM 03 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> AJM - I think I once tried Lunacy Booth and got psyched out by the bolts hanging out of the wall, I guess its ok/rebolted now? (Or my memory has betrayed me and it wasn't that route...)

Lunacy Booth has ok bolts now, there are definitely some of the ones a bit further left on some pretty elderly looking ones though.

Not a bad week. Work continues busy. I forget exactly what I did when but I did a bunch of "10 minutes of on the minute pullup sets", which I am rubbish at, and I did a good 1-on-1-off session and ticked the blue circuit at the wall.

I had Friday afternoon off work and went down to Wallsend. I like Wallsend, its great. Got on Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) which is a really cool (hard) 7c. I'd heard nightmares about a tweaky finger-shredding mono so was pleased to find its actually a pretty decent 2-finger pocket and the move off it is not very hard. Had a bit of a faff on the top which is blind and delicate and I was wussing a bit so I've still got 1-2 moves to work out up there. Think its probably ok when dialled though - 7a+ from the rest ledge? Best go on the lower bit I managed from about 4 moves in to falling off going for the good jug below the rest ledge at half height - pretty pleased with that. Very power endurancey - long moves on little crimps when you're tiring at the end of the sequence.

We had our housewarming yesterday which was fun, and this afternoon I've put in a couple of hours in the garden stripping the massive hedge of most of its branches and starting to chop the actual trunks down.

Burren next weekend. Very exciting stuff.
 JayK 03 Jul 2016
In reply to Tyler:

Great effort on Dominatrix!
 hokkyokusei 03 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Hello, since I'm in Huaraz with internet, I just thought I'd let you know that I made it to the top of Ishinka, but not quite to the top of Toclaraju. I had to skip Urus as the weather delayed my attempt on Toclaraju. Tomorrow I leave for Pisco.
OP Dandan 04 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks me, another good week although I pushed things a bit hard and my elbows complained a little by Thursday so I eased off towards the end of the week. (actually, thinking about it, when I say eased off, I mean I had 1 day rest...)

M: Bodyweight antagonists; Had some good progress on the Manna progressions, I actually managed to lift my legs to about 45 degrees up in front of me and hold it for 6 seconds! First real progress I've seen on this exercise, absolutely destroyed my triceps!
T: Indoor Boulder; Warmed up and repeated problems up to V7, then AeroPow, 30 move circuit x8 with rest 1x work. Basically did up V2, down V2 up V3 but it was too easy, need to make the first part harder.
W: Fingerboard and cardio circuit
T: Indoor Boulder; Warmed up and climbed new probs on 10 degree wall up to V6, was going to do AnPow problems but elbows were complaining so I exercised some restraint and did 10 mins AeroCap and went home.
F: Rest, finished wallpapering the hallway! Yes! Looks really nice, especially after seeing bare plaster walls for the last 6 months!
S: Portland, The Cuttings; Back on Fighting Torque with a clipstick, some progress made but I still have some issues.
I can basically do the route in 2 sections now, the problem is the 2 sections don't overlap, there is a wide left hand reach/slap move from a right hand undercut that I just can't reach. If I pull onto the holds I can *just* reach between them but my face is pressed against the wall, it's completely at full stretch.
There is some hand shuffling I could potentially do to get the right hand a little further left, but it adds a couple of moves to the sequence and isn't guaranteed anyway (I will try it out though). Another way is to move the right hand to an undercut further up and left to make the reach shorter but at that point your right hand is completely weighted so I can't see how to shift it to the other hold. Robin's dad Marcus does it this way and apparently its crazily powerful.

The other alternative is to use the completely different beta which goes up and right from the undercut instead of left, but this is the sequence I didn't like in the past due to horrible smeary feet, although if I can't make the left hand slap then I might have to consider it. I feel like I should persevere with the route now that I've put some more time into it, it's not a super inspiring line, I'm genuinely just grade chasing, but that's ok. Also Mrs Dandan had another look at Live by the Sword and has decided it's worth some attention so it will be much easier to convince her to head back there.
Elbows performed admirably.

S: Built a shack (it's too crap to call it a shed) to temporarily store the contents of my garage while I knock it down and rebuild it, I managed to make it entirely from bits of wood I had lying around, and I didn't even have to use any decent pieces of wood, it was all offcuts and scrap!

Last Weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions - TICK (although one was cut short)
10x10 second free handstands - 3/10
Create Daniboy training circuit - TICK but not climbed it yet

Next Weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Repeat 45 degree manna progression -

MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 8/2
Get back on Fighting Torque - maybe this week again
Don't spanner myself before Lattice assessment end of July

LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds

BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan. The week started off pretty poorly with me feeling like rubbish. I guess it was my body's way of hitting reboot. Still, it saw me feeling pretty energised by the time Thursday/Friday came around so a mate and myself grabbed a rope and headed to Stockport wall feeling psyched.

I top roped a few routes (7) and only really felt a bit wobbly on 2 of them so I was feeling pretty happy about that. As I had my rope with me I was obviously planning on leading something, even if I wasn't sure about it, so we spied a nice and juggy orange 4+ (tech difficulty wasn't the point here) and got on it. I'm actually amazed how comfortable I found this and never once felt 'out there'. Happy is a huge understatement. Pysched? Yes! 1st time on a rope in over a year and 1st lead for about 2.5 years.

Mon: Lurgy
Tue: Lurgy
Wed: Lurgy
Thu: Lurgy
Fri: A solid routes session at Stockport. Got on a rope for the first time in just over a year and lead a route for the first time in about 2.5 years! Mega happy with that and felt absolutely fine except some minor talking-tos on two routes out of 8. Maybe I should get a cold more often.
Sat: AM: 12 mile MTB leg spinner. PM: walk with the family.
Sun: Bouldering – climbed really well again and ticked a V3 in the cave that I couldn't get before. Feeling mega after Friday!

Aims For This Week:
A balance of activities, focus on variety and fun
Climbing: 2–3x 2/3 Tick!
Bike: 1x 1/1 Tick!
Get an indoor V5/6 ticked. These look nails.
Get on Too Drunk. Too wet
Get on a rope Tick!
Lead a trad route if it's dry enough. Too wet but did lead a route indoor!

STGs:
Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (reds) 2/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Attend skiing lesson
Lead 1x Diff before July 18th
Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 1/8

MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Get competent at skiing

LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
Do a Scottish skiing trip
Winter III
Kili or Elbrus (and ski back down if Elbrus)

BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Winter V
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes
 Ian Bell 04 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

STG = another 7a+ by end of July.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40

Glad to hear it's not just me that found that one hard Dandan. Its all over once you clip the 3rd bolt I think but quite powerful to there. Good work Tyler on the send as well.

M - c1 hour fingerboard, 10 sec weighted max hangs. Watching football ;-(

T - c2 hours campussing. Incl both standard campus and some more PE work with feet on / lots of hand movements. Very hard but feeling the benefit.

T - c1 hour fingerboard, 7 on 3 off repeaters.

F - WW routes. Couple of goes on a 7b and could do all the moves. Go on a really fun 7a+ on the (steep) comp wall.

Sat - 2 sets of the TRX rings. WW routes again. Another couple of goes on the 7a+, got much further but came off near the top and then too far out of the wall to get back on.

A more relaxed week this week with a couple of routes sessions with the gf, nice to do that after so long bouldering / training. Made sure I took plenty of falls / airtime to get the head back in order which I think was helpful. Hopefully off outside next weekend.
 planetmarshall 04 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Back into training now with a good week, though still a bit short on the aerobic Z1 mileage.

Mon - Max Strength.
Core warm up
4 sets
4x Ring Dip +8kg
4x Wide chinup +4kg
4x Hang Squat 40kg
Tue - Climbing at AW Sheffield. Onto my second pyramid, a couple of attempts on some 6bs.
Wed - Max strength.
Core warm up
4 sets
4x Turkish Getup +12kg
2x Frenchies (bodyweight)
4x Ring Dips + 10kg.
Thu - Trail Run. 15.19km/518m
Fri - Bouldering at Depot Manchester. Pink (League) problems 1-13 in a pyramid pattern. 2,4,6,8 (dnf),10,12,13,11 (dnf),9,7,5,3,1.
Sat - Rest
Sun - Climbing at Stanage North. Among others, Left-hand Tower (HVS 5a). Took a quick look at Marbellous (E8 7a), could just about work out how to get off the ground.

STG

Next week's goals -

* 4.5 hours aerobic Z1 ( probably trail running )
* Bouldering pyramids. Either at Depot or Works
* 2 Strength and Conditioning sessions
* Going to Eigg at the weekend. Might require some exploration, but take a look at Frozen Ocean (E1 5a)

MTG

Left shoulder rehab.

Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)

LTG

Recovery of left shoulder injury.

Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly

Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)

Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe

Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)

Learn to ski.

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 22:16

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