In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, another good week although I pushed things a bit hard and my elbows complained a little by Thursday so I eased off towards the end of the week. (actually, thinking about it, when I say eased off, I mean I had 1 day rest...)
M: Bodyweight antagonists; Had some good progress on the Manna progressions, I actually managed to lift my legs to about 45 degrees up in front of me and hold it for 6 seconds! First real progress I've seen on this exercise, absolutely destroyed my triceps!
T: Indoor Boulder; Warmed up and repeated problems up to V7, then AeroPow, 30 move circuit x8 with rest 1x work. Basically did up V2, down V2 up V3 but it was too easy, need to make the first part harder.
W: Fingerboard and cardio circuit
T: Indoor Boulder; Warmed up and climbed new probs on 10 degree wall up to V6, was going to do AnPow problems but elbows were complaining so I exercised some restraint and did 10 mins AeroCap and went home.
F: Rest, finished wallpapering the hallway! Yes! Looks really nice, especially after seeing bare plaster walls for the last 6 months!
S: Portland, The Cuttings; Back on Fighting Torque with a clipstick, some progress made but I still have some issues.
I can basically do the route in 2 sections now, the problem is the 2 sections don't overlap, there is a wide left hand reach/slap move from a right hand undercut that I just can't reach. If I pull onto the holds I can *just* reach between them but my face is pressed against the wall, it's completely at full stretch.
There is some hand shuffling I could potentially do to get the right hand a little further left, but it adds a couple of moves to the sequence and isn't guaranteed anyway (I will try it out though). Another way is to move the right hand to an undercut further up and left to make the reach shorter but at that point your right hand is completely weighted so I can't see how to shift it to the other hold. Robin's dad Marcus does it this way and apparently its crazily powerful.
The other alternative is to use the completely different beta which goes up and right from the undercut instead of left, but this is the sequence I didn't like in the past due to horrible smeary feet, although if I can't make the left hand slap then I might have to consider it. I feel like I should persevere with the route now that I've put some more time into it, it's not a super inspiring line, I'm genuinely just grade chasing, but that's ok. Also Mrs Dandan had another look at Live by the Sword and has decided it's worth some attention so it will be much easier to convince her to head back there.
Elbows performed admirably.
S: Built a shack (it's too crap to call it a shed) to temporarily store the contents of my garage while I knock it down and rebuild it, I managed to make it entirely from bits of wood I had lying around, and I didn't even have to use any decent pieces of wood, it was all offcuts and scrap!
Last Weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions - TICK (although one was cut short)
10x10 second free handstands - 3/10
Create Daniboy training circuit - TICK but not climbed it yet
Next Weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Repeat 45 degree manna progression -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 8/2
Get back on Fighting Torque - maybe this week again
Don't spanner myself before Lattice assessment end of July
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between