UKC

Can anyone advise what trad kit is needed for the start of Dominatrix on Kilnsey. ? Just wires or cams too?
Cheers
Bill

In reply to Billg:

None, it's fully bolted. The guide is out of date (if that's where you heard it needs gear).

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Cheers. That's exactly where I got it from

In reply to Billg:

The first bolt is quite high though it's pretty easy climbing up to there - no more than VS.

In reply to Billg:

Handcuffs?

(Sorry, I'll get my - bondage - coat)

In reply to stp: There is a new lower bolt now, you can easily stick clip it.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

My point was that you don't need to (unlike a number of other routes at Kilnsey). If you climb E6/7c you shouldn't have any trouble doing 10' of possibly VS climbing to the first bolt.

In reply to stp:

cheers Andy - I think i'll cope with a bit of VS, but the threat of heavy rain stopped play this weekend and we went to cheddar instead.

In reply to stp:
It's harder than VS (more like E1) and at the moment the holds are wet/damp. The extra bolt is sensible.

In reply to Billg:
It was fine this weekend. Mostly dry Sat pm and today. The starting holds past the first three bolts were wet but improved through the weekend and today were just a bit damp. Some smeggy holds higher up but all doable. Fantastic route!

In reply to Billg:


It's fully bolted IIRC but I'd have been using a clipstick.
jk

In reply to Billg:
The first bolt used to be quite high (it is now the second bolt obviously) but the climbing was always easy and anyway it could be protected but a good wire. Unfortunatley the wire could come out if the leader fell high up on the route and the belayer was standing too far out from the base of the route. The wire would usually slide spinning down the rope and could threaten the belayer with a nasty thwack!

I added an extra bolt a few years ago now. I've updated the UKC logbook.

The climbing to the current first bolt is easy but it is getting a bit polished. This bolt can be easily clipped with a short clip stick but to be honest if you can't get to the first bolt you will find the moves past the last bolt impossible!

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Good effort on the extra bolt.

I'd say Dominatrix is a well bolted route in it's current state (unlike a lot of Kilnsey routes). Definitely a little run out but not crazily so, and bolts on the hardest sections. I think the idea of expecting someone to use a nut at the start is ridiculous on what is to all intents and purposes a sport crag now. Very few climbers will even have a trad rack to Kilnsey these days (most probably don't even possess one).

In reply to Steve Crowe:

So it's raining at kilnsey, I'm bored too..
So the question being is then why are other routes at kilnsey which have ridiculous high first bolts not been sorted also....
I also include in this the first bolt you removed from a route last year....
Cheers Steve....

In reply to stp:

Dominatrix was originally an aid route that got freed as an E6 playing wires clipping insitu pegs and old aid bolts. When it was bolted the bolts were placed in similar places as the old gear.