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Technique advice - How to Climb Ice Pillars/Aretes

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 mmmhumous 08 Jul 2016
So I'm getting fairly happy with my technique on slabs/walls and chimneys and even the steep stuff is getting easier, but I'm still struggling with technique on ice pillars and aretes.

If I tackle them head on , I feel like I don't have a stable base: my footwork gets sloppy an it feels like I'm constantly in danger of barn-dooring.

If I go side on, using one high tool above my head and the other at chest/shoulder height as a layback seems to work well, but completely pumped me out.

Any tips. I expecting 'sort my feet out' to be a common theme in the response. Anything more specific in this vane?
 nufkin 09 Jul 2016
In reply to mmmhumous:

Always easier said than done, but having feet basically level with each other and shoulder-ish width apart and the leading tool placed so as to make the third point of a tall pyramid should minimise sideways twisting, on any ice.
There's bound to be good videos of ice pros to watch for examples of how to do it effortlessly
1
 george mc 09 Jul 2016
In reply to mmmhumous:

Shameless plug...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4316

I'm assuming this is indoor stuff you are climbing? Climbing pillars for real is a pretty full on serious game - with a great many variables not least of which is the quality of the ice and how stable/strong the pillar is. In reality climbing "quietly" no whacking and kicking is a safer - and more effective - course of action. If it's indoors well, you'll get away with whacking and kicking the shit out of it!
 Alex Slipchuk 10 Jul 2016
In reply to nufkin:

I think your missing the point of the OP.

Of the pillars i've been on (Norway and aretes on indoor walls) i find the best practice os to offset feet and tools, as there isn't enough width to spread feet, even shoulder width (not really a pillar technique then) and obviously tools shouldn't be planted to close together.



George's advice on softly softly is always true

To the OP, steve house has a nice video soloing two thin routes, although not pillars (thin chimneys) good to watch some pecking action.

Steve House соловосхождение на Repentance и Remis…: youtube.com/watch?v=ycdi06FZNy4&

 BnB 10 Jul 2016
In reply to Alex Slipchuk:

Enjoyed that. He's quite gripped at the chockstone/fist jam section
1
Swampi 10 Jul 2016
In reply to mmmhumous:
https://vimeo.com/8877603

"laybacking" sounds like the wrong approach. You want to be imagine a bubble surrrounding your centre of gravity. Each axe placement should be placed in a position that when you move your feet, you're balanced, pulling straight down on the top axe, with bent legs (froggy stance).

Then you should extend you legs, lock your axe by your sternum(or chin, depending on the lay if the ice) and place the next one. Repeat, rinse, repeat as required.
Post edited at 12:17
 Wee Davie 10 Jul 2016
In reply to BnB:

It's a good video but it's sobering for me that shortly after that was filmed House had a massive accident (roped) in the Rockies. Can't remember the exact injuries but pretty major.
In reply to BnB:

> Enjoyed that. He's quite gripped at the chockstone/fist jam section

Jesus! He was not nearly as controlled as a typical soloist - that was pretty low margin for error!
 gavmac 11 Jul 2016
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

Ooooft sweaty palms watching that move over the chockstone.
 Mark Bannan 11 Jul 2016
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

> Jesus! He was not nearly as controlled as a typical soloist - that was pretty low margin for error!

Agreed! I thought the worst bit was when his feet popped off at about 5.25.
OP mmmhumous 12 Jul 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Mainly narrow-narrowish... i.e. when making a triangle with feet/axe starts to become more challenging.
OP mmmhumous 12 Jul 2016

> I'm assuming this is indoor stuff you are climbing?

A mix of both inside and out (on 2nd). I've got my eye on a few WI5 pillars in Ryukan this winter and want to up my game, so that the leads feel exhillerating, not harrowing.
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OP mmmhumous 12 Jul 2016
In reply to Alex Slipchuk:

Great video... no ice route would be complete without a cheeky jam
OP mmmhumous 12 Jul 2016
In reply to Swampi:

Perfect, thanks.
OP mmmhumous 12 Jul 2016
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
> "laybacking" sounds like the wrong approach.

I think what I was aiming for was the position at 1:11: vimeo.com/8877603 (i.e. left arm/tool not fully vertical and left leg flagging).
Post edited at 07:47
In reply to mmmhumous:

A good way of getting used to the movement is just moving around a lot more, left to right, than you imagine you should without even placing an axe.

You can climb steep ice with surprisingly little effort when you do it right, keep trying and it'll click.

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