UKC

Looking for some short less well known climbs around milestone buttress,Tryfan, glyder fawr, all the craigs on the other side of the road, ysfa/ogof/Lloer.
Diff-severe

Eg.

Central Route (D)
Arete and Slab (VD)
North Arete (D)
Thanks

In reply to zimpara:

Tryfan Fach

In reply to Le Chevalier Mal Fet:

"less well known"

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Quite a few climbs on the right are quiet and those on the back get very little traffic. Stanage no star syndrome!?

In reply to Offwidth:

I must admit after one trip there I've never been back. Maybe I need to give it a second chance...

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Same, been once. Haven't felt the pull towards climbing there again yet.
So there really is very little in snodonia if you skip all the classics and popular climbs.
Suprising!

In reply to zimpara:
You are asking for short worthwhile routes in modest grades in one of the UK's prime Trad climbing areas that are unfrequented and you are surprised that the well is dry?
Not exactly a secret, but a little less busy than Little Tryfan, Milestone Buttress and Tryfan East Face is Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet) there are some easier slabby pitches there that are worth doing.
If you are not so worried about your "short" criterion you will find some quiet worthwhile things on Carnedd Y Filiast (Cairn of the Greyhound Bitch) and Bristly Ridge (East Face). Glyder Fach (especially the Alphabet Slabs) might also be of interest, but again barely qualifies as off the radar.
There are of course more obscure crags to be found in Snowdonia, but the Ogwen valley is unlikely to be the home to many of them.

In reply to zimpara:

I think it's more that you've picked one of the most popular, classic areas of Snowdonia and asked why almost everything easy there is popular and classic! The Moelwyns (for instance) have some excellent, less frequented stuff.

I'm not a massive fan of Tryfan Bach either, and I find it a bit weird that some people seem to reflexively recommend it in this sort of thread. It's the antithesis of adventure climbing - short, roadside, entire route clearly visible from the ground - which is probably good for complete beginners but doesn't seem like the sort of thing that most people travel to the hills for.

In reply to zimpara:

I'm sure that there are lots. But I've still got too many classics to do to spend much time on obscurities!

In reply to Ramblin dave:


Or round the back up onto the moors to the east of B. Ffestiniog. Quiet small crags, zero polish etc.. a short walk from the road.

Although Bochllywd Buttress has enough routes to cope with the few people who go there.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Now that, is an impressively well made point! Well done

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

The stuff on the right is good, partly as they are less polished. Climbing the gaps between routes on the main left face can be really good blinkered slab work at around Severe on rough rock.... made for you. Best of all is wandering about randomly solo at night with a head torch the place gains scale and grace. The climbs round the back are OK but need to be dry and are a bit sandbaggy.

In reply to Ramblin dave:

For introducing novices, it would almost be better if it was 10/20m shorter! although you can manage it all in a single pitch on 60m ropes. Great clean rock though, actually quite enjoyed the day we spent there with some new climbers! Plus it is super super hex friendly (where the leftwards and rightwards trending cracks meet) which is clearly a mark of it's glorious superiority as a crag

In reply to andrewmcleod:
I had a pub type conversation After several pints. The business plan was to purchase Little Tryfan, move it to The South East, put a roof over it, increase its angle by about 10% then charge people to use it.
One or two challenges to overcome in that idea though.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:


Fair enough. I'm sure you have some esoteric and exotic suggestions of your own.....

"I'm sure that there are lots. But I've still got too many classics to do to spend much time on obscurities!"

.....or not.

I suggested TB as it's one of the only crags in the area with shorter easier routes (as others have noted). I would have suggested Clogwyn Bochlwyd, but the OP already mentioned a climb on there.