UKC

I'm looking at buying a second rope so that I can use a double rope system. I currently own a 50m single Mammut Galaxy rope.

1. Is there any issue with using a half rope with my current single rope in a double rope setup?

2. Can I use different length ropes in a double rope setup? I'm looking into climbing in europe and I could do with upgrading to a 60m or 70m setup.

3. Any recommendations on half ropes for multipitch sport and trad?

Cheers,
Sam

In reply to samnbuk:

1. I imagine the greater the difference in diameter the greater the problems you could encounter belaying and holding falls. You may well find that a hard fall on to a skinny rope when the brake hand is already holding a fat rope may mean that its harder to apply high breaking forces. Of course you may not. You also have to be careful if joining the ropes for abseiling as an overhand knot is not as reliable in this case.

2. You can use different length half ropes but you always have to be extra cautious abseiling. It will also get tedious pulling up the extra rope.

2/3. Are their any/many European climbs that require more than 60m half ropes (not singles)? I find mammut ropes are very hard wearing.

In reply to samnbuk:
You may wish to consider whether you will get a second half rope at some point in the future. If so, then I would pair your new half rope with your future desire. Personally I am a fan of my 60m ropes because a) it's supposed to be better for winter where belays are far apart (but haven't really had a chance to play with that), b) the extra 10m has come in handy a lot for very long pitches (e.g. anything on Tryfan Bach) or long abseils (e.g. the allegedly 60m one off the Mot) and c) you never have to worry about having some spare rope at the belay if you want to use a lot in the belay or indeed go wandering 5-10m off in search of better gear at the top.

Others disagree - particularly those that only climb tiny sub-20m routes :P

Final consideration - if I had a single and a half, but was on a route of less than half the length of the half rope, I would consider tying into the middle of the half rope and using that instead of both ropes. You will get up quite a lot of stuff if you have a 60m half so can do 30m pitches...

I don't know what is standard for trad in Europe, so a lot of this advice may be irrelevant...

Using a single and a half works OK but can be a lot of rope and faff. Using a 50m and a 60m should be fine - as long as you tie knots in the end for abseiling and sport lowering (but you are doing that anyway, right?) :P

In reply to samnbuk:

There isn't a problem with using different length / diameter ropes other than its a bit more awkward than using identical ropes. If you are happy with Mammut (which I certainly am) then I'd get a Mammut Genesis

In reply to samnbuk:

Its often considered to be dangerous holding falls using very different rope diameters in a double rope system. I think this is supposedly due to the thinner rope passing more rapidly through a belay device and/or a failure to grip the thinner rope so well when its against the the thicker rope. When abbing the thinner rope is said to be able to slide through the anchor sling/krab if the joining knot is placed on the wrong side (also take care which knot is used when joining ropes of very different diameters). I've personally not experienced these problems (yet).
There have been several previous discussions about this topic in the forums.

In reply to oldie:

This is what I was concerned with particularly when I'm fairly new to belaying with doubles. Decided to just go for a 70mm single instead and I will just buy the halfs together when I have a better idea of what I want.

In reply to samnbuk:


Wow that a pretty thick rope, do you find it a bit too hefty on mountain crags?