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can't multipitch in my current shoes advice please

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 Jackspratt 18 Jul 2016
Did an easy 5 pitch slab today but found my shoes unbearably uncomfortable to the point that I had to take them off at the last two stances, they've always been a bit tight and when at the gym I take them off every 45mins or so. do many of you have a bigger size for longer days or are they just too small even for single pitch, side note I climb in evolv bandits and the main pain is on my big toe knuckles anyone else had similar ( maybe its not sizing maybe its design)
2
 wilkie14c 18 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

Ignore sizes. Buy what is comfy. I'm an 11 and my all dayers are a 13!
 ogreville 18 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

Def worth the investment in an additional pair of shoes specifically for multi pitch or long craggin' days.

I've just got a pair of 5.10 moccs. Brilliant for this purpose and they're magic. I reckon they'll do for anything well in to the Es. Same profile as your Bandits and same price.
If you really like the bandits it would prob be a good idea to go for a second pair and size them up a half or full size to remove the toe pain.

OP Jackspratt 18 Jul 2016
In reply to ogreville:

yeah I was looking at the moccs or guides did you get yours online or do you know where stocks them I prefer to try them on before I buy. Thanks
 olddirtydoggy 19 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

I'll second another pair of shoes for multi. Unless you're climbing a lot this can be a problem. I got a second more comfortable pair for multi. Taking them off when bringing up your partner can relieve the problem as you're doing, not unusual to do that. At my local, Crag X, they send you down to the wall downstairs to try them out before you buy. Worth paying a bit more than web clear out deals if you don't want to end up with a pair of foot eaters.
 bpmclimb 19 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

FWIW I almost always take my shoes off at stances on multi-pitch. I also take them off between single pitch climbs, and after every route indoors. Velcro is handy
 ogreville 19 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

The problem with 5.10 Moccs is that you will really struggle to find a shop that sells them. I've have never seen them being sold in shops.
I got them from the Banana Fingers website. They have a size calculator to assist, but they also provide the option to buy, try and return if you don't like the sizing. It's a little more longwinded by worth it for a good pair of shoes.

In reply to Jackspratt:

Maybe try Evolv Astroman or La Sportiva TC Pro, sized so your tows sit flat, not crimped.

I wear tight shoes and take them off every belay (I don't deal so well with less technical shoes on harder routes, but for anything up to E3/E4 you should be fine on something reasonably comfy)
In reply to Jackspratt:

I've always had a seperate pair of shoes a size bigger for multi pitching.
 andrewmc 19 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67899

I've always been of the opinion that (unless you are actually quite good, in which case you will obviously not need to receive any advice from me!) shoes should be snug but not actually tight. I do always buy synthetic shoes which don't really stretch though, so I buy what (just) feels comfy. I'm pretty sure there is nothing I have ever failed to get up because of my shoes (except possibly slab bouldering when the edges were totally gone) as opposed to general weakness, lack of technique etc...
 eltankos 19 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

I have the evolv bandits and exact same toe knuckle pain. Glad it's not just me.
 Hooo 19 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

Looking at your profile and how hard you climb ( about the same as me) I'd say there's no need to be wearing uncomfortable shoes anywhere.
My shoe buying method is to try every pair in the shop on, starting at the cheapest and working upwards until I find something snug but comfy. Paying no attention to brand or style.
I've tried tight shoes, but I can't say I climbed any better in them. I reckon I'd have to improve a good few grades before I'd need to get picky about shoes.
 gobbledigook 19 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

+1 for the TC Pro's they are a bit pricey, but a nice all day shoe that can get technical if needed. i just wear my normal show size, but again you can only get these online :/
 1poundSOCKS 19 Jul 2016
In reply to gobbledigook:

> TC Pro's
> that can get technical if needed

Didn't Tommy Caldwell (Mr. TC himself) climb the Dawn Wall in a pair? So they're good for F9a.
 Offwidth 19 Jul 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:
I started like that. It took me a year or so to dump tight shoes for all but short technical bouts and wear snug (but on the loose side, as feet swell) shoes for all day stuff; with socks to improve the fit, keep them clean and keep biting insects off my legs. Try lots on and buy what fits best and keep an eye out for bargains if you find a shoe you like.
Post edited at 16:52

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