I've looked on here previously for some wisdom on repairing cams but never really found anything I thought was massively useful so having had a go myself and been very pleased with the results I thought I might as well share.
I wasnt's quite sure whether to go for 1mm or 1.5mm wire and fittings ended up buying more than I needed but even with enough stuff left over to repair anything else that I kill in years to come the whole lot still only came to around £25.
Process-wise, I did the following which is applicable to Wild Country Flexible Friends and seems to have worked pretty well:
1 Cut the old ferrules lengthways using a Dremel and prise them off the J wires. You could probably cut these off with a junior hacksaw or file through them but it'll take a lot longer.
2 Push the cable clamp inserts out of the trigger bar using a screw driver. They're glued in so require a bit of a push.
3 Remove the old cable from the cable clamp insert. Again, they're glued in so you'll have to pull the cable end back and forth to break up the glue before sliding the cable out.
4 Measure the length of the old cables and cut new ones to length.
5 Thread the new cables through the inserts and push them back into the trigger bar. Add a drop of superglue if you want. I haven't glued anything but all seems very secure.
6 Thread a ferrule onto one of the cable ends and push it onto the end of the J wire on the cam lobe. I found this was a bit of a tight fit and so had to give the ferrules a light squeeze first in order to open them up slightly.
7 Once in place crush the ferrules to the full pressure available from the crimp tool.
Very nice job, more 'proper' looking than strummer wire repairs!
Your repair and tools needed for it are what was contained in the cam doctor kit that was popular a few years back. I got one while in the USA and still have it, makes good repairs similar to yours.
The wc friends actually incorporated a very clever bit of design that enabled the trigger wires to be replaced without tools by the end user. Don't know if you can still get those kits now.
Nice work
I had a look for the Cam Doctor kits before I arrived at the conclusion that I was going to have to do it myself. Looks like they've gone out of business - the web address goes nowhere.
In reply to Thinker01: I've retired a couple of cams in the past due to wires fraying at this point on them. I think the outer wires are by far the more likely to snap first so you can see visually when this has occurred.
I use 7 X 19 , 1.5 dia wire from same source. It is more flexible. I crimp with aluminium crimps. To replace the rods in the cams if req, I use S/S 1.5 dia welding wire.
alrighty, this thread deserves a place for future reference.
I'v just managed this process on an ol DMM 4cu.....
I'd suggest
1.25 or 1.5 7x7 SS wire,
Code 1.5 Alu ferrules,
this is pretty much a like for like replacement of what's on there already.
tips:
the existing ferrules are quite easy to cut off with a junior hacksaw
be neat wit the new wire, once it frays it's a total pain to thread.....
for a well neat job get a proper crimping tool.
cut the wire to length first, then crimp just inside or flush with the ferrule so there's no fraying bits.
grow a third arm and hand to hold everything in place while you fumble around like a ham fisted lummox.
> alrighty, this thread deserves a place for future reference.
> I'v just managed this process on an ol DMM 4cu.....
> I'd suggest
> 1.25 or 1.5 7x7 SS wire,
> Code 1.5 Alu ferrules,
> this is pretty much a like for like replacement of what's on there already.
> tips:
> the existing ferrules are quite easy to cut off with a junior hacksaw
> be neat wit the new wire, once it frays it's a total pain to thread.....
> for a well neat job get a proper crimping tool.
> cut the wire to length first, then crimp just inside or flush with the ferrule so there's no fraying bits.
> grow a third arm and hand to hold everything in place while you fumble around like a ham fisted lummox.
Agree with all of this, just repaired an old friend and a dragon cam with 1mm 7x7 and code 1 alu ferrule, the slightly larger sizes would make it a bit easier.
