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Hornli Ridge Topo

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 mark mcgowan01 23 Jul 2016

I'm looking to attempt Hornli Ridge in Aug with two autistic kids. Where can I get a good topo and route description? I'm also looking for as much information as poss about the whole experience. From campsite huts, acclimatising, route finding issues on descent, descent time versus ascent, overtaking issues....
https://fundrazr.com/516648?ref=ab_44Vnze
Post edited at 15:02
 EwanR 23 Jul 2016
In reply to mark mcgowan01:

The best English language one is probably Martin Moran's "The 4000m Peaks of the Alps". It covers most of your other questions as well.


 MG 23 Jul 2016
In reply to EwanR:

Also the 4000m Peaks of the Alps, Romelli and Ciridini. There is a good English edition.

Don't know much about autism, but note guides only operate one to one on the ridge with any client.
 smithg 24 Jul 2016
In reply to mark mcgowan01:
Another vote for the Martin Moran book.

Google Hornli topo and pick the ones you like best:

Download this one and "google translate" the text
http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/vallais/walliser-alpen/matterhorn-hoern...

The "camp to camp" and "summitpost" pages are also useful.

When you get to the Hornli hut, dump all your gear and go do the first few hundred metres of the route in daylight.


Given all the backing you've got, I'd be surprised if you can't find someone who's done it before, who would want to come with you.
In reply to smithg:

Thankyou.
 Pero 26 Jul 2016
In reply to mark mcgowan01:

I assume you are already booked into the Hornli hut? You need to book well in advance and there is no camping allowed near the hut.

The obvious thing about the route is its length. Most of it is a scramble. So, everyone needs to be technically competent at Grade II/III scrambling. There's been a lot of snow this year, so conditions may be more difficult than usual. There was snow and verglas on the upper section when we did it last year and that meant climbing in crampons from above the Solvay Hut. Someone once said to me "it pays to be as good as the mountain you are climbing". And, I think that applies to the Matterhorn.

You need to have your technical plan worked out for the upper fixed ropes: they are the big thick ones! Both in ascent and descent. Abseiling will be slower but safer than downclimbing.

The descent is what you would expect on a grade II/III scramble. Most of it is downclimbing with perhaps 10 abseils possible at various points. Because it's so broken, you'll never abseil more than 20m at a time.

The thing to avoid on the descent is veering right onto the East face, which is loose and treacherous. When we did it, there were light boxes on the route every 100m or so (which were lit up at night). They may have gone, as they were for the 150th anniversary last year.

Finally, on the descent I'd say "concentrate, concentrate, concentrate" and think about every foot step.

It goes without saying that you should do a shorter route first: the half traverse of the Breithorn can be done in a day from Zermatt using the early cablecar. If anyone struggles on the Breithorn, you shouldn't take them on the Matterhorn. And, the Allalinhorn is the easiest 4000er to get acclimatised first.

Pollux is another you can do in a day from Zermatt.

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