UKC

Can any put me on a well protected hvs please, don't very often do grit, but would like to try a hvs!!! Thanks

In reply to Don't like e3s:

It rather depends on what suits your style but this might be good for a first HVS at Stanage

Nothing to Do with Dover

Nothing to do with Dover (HVS 5a)

Low in the grade but still worthy of it
Very well protected with gear by your waist on the crux (cams)
Short and straightforward climbing that can be read from the ground
Worth a star but not a three-star classic with associated queues and onlookers
The only downside might be that some would view it as "strenuous"

In reply to Don't like e3s:

the right unconquerable will eat as many large cams and hexes as you can throw at it

In reply to Don't like e3s:

Mississippi Variant
Eliminator
Cave Arete
Cave Innominate/Hardings Super Direct Finish
Prudence
The Flange
BAW's Crawl
The Scoop

A selection from the Popular End covering various styles of climbing, all well protected where it counts (close to the ground; before the crux).
Obviously many more with their devotees, but this would be a satisfying & achievable hit list

In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

Thank you so much for your help, much appreciated

In reply to Don't like e3s:
congo corner is well protected and superb. For slabbier elsewhere croiton oil is also awesome and with good gear.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

If I remember correctly Croton Oil is a few miles away from Stanage (but a great climb nonetheless)

In reply to Don't like e3s:

Agony crack is also manys first HVS - hard start with just enough gear to keep you safe and easy there above with very good gear.

In reply to Don't like e3s:

Flying buttress Direct

In reply to Ciderslider:
Cheers buddy but I do have a little knowledge on stanage and that any no push over haha

In reply to Don't like e3s:
Sorry mate, couldn't resist

Actually Lancashire Wall is nice and soft and has good gear - nothing to do with dover is good well protected with a couple of pumpy moves on jugs - Agony crack is good - a small wire in the low pocket protects the bouldery start - make sure you go straight up and don't traverse in from the right - once you get past that there's loads of gear protecting the stiff pull on the top section (on jugs).
There is also Right Unconquerable - pumpy as f@ck but uber well protected - take big and medium cams - go straight up at the top.

Good luck mate

Also Cave arete - safe as houses - if you are tall you will easily be able to do the one reachy move

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Croton Oil would have been my choice (on another thread) for best HVS I've seconded.

Also away from Stanage, I'd recommend Knight's Move at Burbage North and Bamford Rib at, well, just guess. Both are soft but satisfying.

In reply to Ciderslider:
I'm quite tall and I think that move on cave ar£te is 5b, seem to remember both of us struggling with it Quite safe though, although there is a bit of ledge you might twist your ankle on.

Agony crack there is more gear before the mid way ledge (the small wire is quite low down).

Weirdly I think I'm the only person that finds Lancashire Wall not all that soft (it even get's vs 5a in one of my not all that old guides) :-/

In reply to BnB:
Croton Oil is lovely isn't it, great ballancy moves with perfect protection for all the hard climbing, spaced as you would space bolts on a sports route - although you do have to do smear moves above gear. Not much to hit either if you fluff it.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Haha, Lancashire wall is one that always trips me up too.

The softest HVS at stanage is just opposite Manchester United (HVS 5b)

The direct start to Narrow Buttress also gets HVS but is probably less spooky than doing the traverse.

Another soft one is Centre Stage (HVS 5a) but there's a spooky move near the start (cams do protect)

Rugosity Wall (HVS 5c) is hard but safe and as others have said Mississippi Variant (HVS 5a) is well protected throughout. Eliminator (HVS 5b) is one of my favourites but does have a 5b move quite low down, so you'll need a tight belay or maybe a boulder pad? Right Unconquerable is also a top pick but feels more like e1 if you hang around too long. BAW's Crawl (HVS 5a) is worth a mention as a novelty, well good!