UKC

Skeleton Ridge (HVS 4c) The Needles

Hey nice bunch of people we are planning on doing Skeleton Ridge on the Isle of Wight on Saturday and was just wondering if anyone has a good photo topo and route description we can print out and take with us to keep us on track?

Just waiting for the first smart arse to post "Just follow the ridge"

Have already contacted the coastguard and Nation Trust people to inform them. Have all the gear for the ab's and the rack sorted so just need a topo and route description.

Cheers
Dave

In reply to David Staples:

There's a great video of it here ...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=644966

In reply to Lusk:

Thanks Lusk, watched that one when it was posted, gives you a fairly good idea of where the route goes. Just wanted a good written description and photo topo if such things exist

In reply to David Staples:

There is a description in the current swanage cc guide unfortunately I don't have one to hand

In reply to David Staples:

Lucky lads theres a few new pegs in it. Enjoy it, it is bloody mental. You dont need a photo topo, using the CC description from Swanage book its very obvious.

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Cheers Monkey, any chance you have the Swanage CC guide and could photo the description for me? I only have to Dorset Rockfax!

In reply to David Staples:

My partner had it unfortunately!

In reply to David Staples:

Have you seen this? It give a pretty succinct description of the route.

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=w79_RDBi_cgC&pg=PT158&lpg=PT158...

In reply to Tony the Blade:

I'm the other poor sod doing it. Cheers Tony, that's perfect!

In reply to Tony the Blade:

Thanks Tony,

That is perfect.

Cheers

In reply to David Staples:

Top tip. Ab off the correct side of the Isle.
A 100m ab will reach the bottom the other side. There is wet boulder hopping after. And a vague corner as a first pitch, with blinkered enthusiasm can be made to fit a guide book description with some imagination. Which ties up with the correct route on the top of the ridge. But the first pitch is lethal and easily as hard as any e3 I have climbed, but should come with an xs grade.
The rest will however feel safe and easy after this alternative start.
Then in the pub after. Reading an old cc guide you get a omg moment, laugh and thank the stars for surviving.

In reply to David Staples:

Did Skeleton Ridge today. A grand day out indeed, and the exposure on the last pitch is outrageous. The first pitch seemed the most worrying part of the route - climbing a steep slab on embedded flints with 12m ground fall potential. The upper section felt a bit easier than expected, with nothing harder than 4b, but maybe we had got used to the style of climbing by then.

The best description is in the CC South West Climbs Volume 1, but the Dan Bailey book is good enough. If you have a 60m rope you can reach the belay at the top of the route and avoid having to pre-place another rope. Make sure you take several very long slings to place round large blocks for runners and belays. There are now three brand-new pegs to back up the rusting relics for the belays after pitches 1 and 3, and for a runner on pitch 6. It sounds as if Cheese Monkey placed them - if so, they were much appreciated! The only other gear we used was a Rock 10 and a few largish Hexes.

The National Trust staff were extremely helpful, arriving early so that we caught the morning low tide, showing us the abseil stake, and looking after our spare gear while we did the route. And they provide a nice tea shop just where you top out.

In reply to David Staples:

Thanks for the advice and info chaps. Though I suspect we will give the E3 variation a miss this time round!

In reply to David Staples:

Hey David good luck on Skelly Ridge and I hope you get the weather! Obviously you have already contacted the NT + coastguard but the following copy + paste is some info I sent to a mate who recently did the climb with Mr Cheese Monkey which you may find useful...

For any parties interested in climbing Skeleton Ridge please note that you require advance permission from the National Trust Administrator (ask for Scott King as he is very helpful) on 01983 754772 at the Old Battery and also to notify the Solent Coastguard on 02392 552100 on the day of your climb, before and after so that a rescue is not mounted unnecessarily. Although the climb is technically not that hard or sustained, with the crux 3rd and 6th pitches graded at about 4c, it is a serious and committing adventure requiring a 90 metre abseil into Scratchell Bay and the start of route is extremely tidal so make sure you get down well before low tide or you will be in for a wade or worse. I would recommend leaving a 50 metre rope in-situ at the top of the route due to the lack of anchors whilst most of the belays have an assortment of pegs in varying states of rusting decay which need backing up. We all carried rope ascenders as insurance in case of retreat and used a lot of large slings plus a few hexes and nuts on the route itself. It would also be fair to say that chalk is definitely not required so leave the chalk bags at home...

I thought the ab was a good 90 metres and we did not bother with hammer + pegs but backed up the in-situ stuff wherever possible We stayed in a nice + cheap little cottage at Stoats Farm Camping and the campsite + Lynne the owner are lovely and only a 5 minute drive from Alum Bay car park. It is a right faff just to get to the ab stake in the corner of the battery moat and we did a 10m ab just to get to the stake. There is a huge block with a big hole in we threaded with a sling 2 metres away from the stake to back it up...

I think that is about all so good luck and hope you get the route done as it is a great day out!

Cheers

Dave

In reply to David Gainor:
I suspect only Mick fowler would have interest in the incorrect first pitch. It is to be avoided.

Sound like you all had a great time on it, it is an experience, and I thought occupies a similar niche in my head/ climbing history as the old man of hoy.
AND what is so nice is the NT and coast guard are really good about you climbing and accessing the needles. Top marks to them for being so accommodating on what could be a life changing route on the wrong day. It's a breath of fresh air in these restrictive times.

In reply to David Staples:

Just got back from a long but brilliant day. It was absolutely bonkers!

Cheers for all the help everyone.

In reply to David Staples:

Hey guys. Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice and information. We had a cracking day on the ridge!