UKC

Anyone know about conditions on Clogwyn yr Eryr (Crafnant Valley)?
Does it dry out quickly? How clean is it at the moment? Thinking about this weekend.

Thanks

Paul

In reply to PaulTanton:

I'd imagine it's pretty quick drying as it gets a fair amount of morning sun - in fact not much of it will get wet as it's quite steep!!

As for how clean it will be - I'd expect cobwebs and some amounts of cornflake lichen on the faces. Considering how often it gets climbed on it's pretty clean.

What routes are you hoping to do? I think it's a great crag in a lovely valley. I'd whole-heartedly recommend Astoroth (expect a tussle!), Oriole (apparently Phoenix is better but I haven't done it and blasting up the wall is exciting on Oriole), and Snowdrop (one of the best E4s I've done in North Wales). Haven't done Phoenix, either of the Clonus routes or Astoroth Direct but they all look great!

Don't expect soft-touches!

Have a great time and report back how you got on!

Dunc

In reply to Duncan Campbell:
Thanks Dunc. I have walked up past the crag. Was impressed. Like to do Phoenix and then maybe one of the others. An E3 I guess. See how it feels.
Remember reading about it way back when and thought I must go.

What is the walk in like from Capel?

In reply to PaulTanton:

Its excellent. Phoenix and Astoroth would be a great day out!

The walk in from Capel would be quite a long one, maybe similar to going to Craig yr Ysfa? To be honest I've always driven to Trefiw and then up the Crafnant valley.

I guess if you want a nice long day out with a bit of climbing and walking going from Capel would be fun...

Dunc

In reply to PaulTanton:

Could be damp at the bottom through the overhangs Fantastic crag one of the best in Wales for its size Snowdrop & Carousel Waltz particularly memorable

In reply to rocksol:
Thanks Guys

In reply to PaulTanton:
For sure one of the finest mountain crags in North Wales. There are some good routes on the ring wings too plus Stuart Cathcart's route Crash Landing on Craig y Dwr is worth the walk.
Midges tend to be awful at times though.
Guess we all know the crag's nickname is the SH Wall - and the reason so ... ?

In reply to rocksol:

Do you reckon? I'd say it would be unlikely, especially given how dry it has been lately.

In reply to PaulTanton:

Take care if doing Clonus, I pulled off one of the downward pointing fangs of rocks a few weeks ago, loose stuff still there and the other fang sounds very hollow.

In reply to PaulTanton:
Hi Guys,
Went to SH wall over the weekend. Superb crag. Did three routes Gondor, astroth and Phoenix with the Oriole finish. All good. Phoenix in particular.
The crag was totally dry while the Pass was wet. Midges are a problem when the light drops to a certain level.
I think all the grades are about right. Astroth is awkward rather than difficult. Bommer gear. The V grove is quite tight if your a gangely old git like me. Can't rate Phoenix highly enough. A must do route.

In reply to dan gibson:
Found your loose downward pointing spike Dan. Must have been entertaining when that came off. Its a real fang of rock with seliva dripping off it!!!!

In reply to PaulTanton:
Glad you had a good time!

Such a good crag! Why is it called SH wall by the way?

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Its called the SH Wall because it was visible through a split it the outdoor sh*t house door of the climbing club hut (cottage) down in the valley below. Dead-set true! Classic huh?

In reply to AP Melbourne:
Keep things simple