UKC

As the latest in my series of Orange Spot Lists (ideal for punters such as myself) I've compiled this little list of 50 of the best offerings in Pembrokeshire:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1592
As I've only done 10/50 so far myself I'm keen on any feedback, any in there that really shouldn't be? Any absolute gems that have been missed?
I've tried to include a range of crags and get a fair few routes at each of the grades in the band, although quality seemed more abundant at HVS than HS.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Of the ones I've done in that range, you've got the routes I'd add - if you're only counting trad routes. Is the lack of DWS routes a deliberate omission?

In reply to The Ivanator:

recently 2nded Limbo (VS 4c) which is easily worth the 2*s it got in one of the guides we were using (wired?)

of the routes i've done (31/50) they are all good.

this is a similar tick list although yours is more focused on quality:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1414

In reply to The Ivanator:
The rockfax top 50 has 2 or 3 Hard severes and then it's hvs/E1 territory. So i'm guessing it's all very steep rock, or graded quite softly? I don't know. But I do like your lists

In reply to The Ivanator:
I remember I really enjoyed Loosener at St. Govan's.
Hercules at Stennis is good.

As for which route to ditch from the list, I would ditch Army Dreamers. It must have been a really good route once upon a time, but not anymore.

Poltergeist is quite forgettable even though I've done it twice for some reason.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Great feedback, good to hear from someone who has done considerably more of the routes than I have. Added Limbo (VS 4c) in place of Bucket Wall (VS 4c) as I suspect Jug City (HVS 5a) is the better of the two Juggy Wall routes I included.

In reply to Kirill:

Ditching Army Dreamers (HVS 5a) would be controversial - although I'm well aware that it it not what it once was due to polish, despite this the logbook feedback and votes still seem remarkably positive. The Loosener (HVS 5a) does indeed look a good line, it's hard to draw the line with the HVS routes, loads of good stuff out there. Poltergeist (HVS 5a) is probably one of the more vulnerable ones on the list, finding an amazing HS I've missed to replace it would be ideal.

In reply to whenry:

Think the DWS stuff is another list altogether, it is hard enough getting it down to 50 routes without throwing that spanner in the works!

In reply to zimpara:
The Rockfax Pembroke guide is a little limited in its scope, but at VS Armorican (VS 4c) and Blue Sky (VS 4b) are in the top 50, having done both I can say they are 2 of the best VS routes in the UK, nevermind Pembroke!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Replaced Poltergeist (HVS 5a) with Joybringer (VS 4b), as this brings a nice symmetry to the list: 20 HVSes, 20 VSes and 10 at HS.
I'm not OCD, honest!

In reply to The Ivanator:
Myola (HS 4b)?

...just noticed it's in the VS section.. and you also have two vs' climbs in the hvs section.

We're off to Pembroke on Friday and this ticklist has wetted my appetite.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Armorican vote from me too!

In reply to Le Chevalier Mal Fet:

I've gone with the grades from the recent CC 5 volume definitive set of guides (not always in alignment with UKC/Rockfax) so Twinkler, Aero, Myola, The Cracks and Threadneedle Street all appear to be out of place.
FWIW having done Myola I'd go with the Rockfax HS 4b grade, great route whatever grade you want to give it!

In reply to The Ivanator:

I agree. Myola is a fantastic and atmospheric route and HS 4b is the correct grade.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Hi Ivan
On the HS front I'd mention Sheer Delight and Wetstone. Also Rusty Slab though I think it now gets VS.

In reply to Rog Wilko:
Some interesting suggestions there Rog, they all look worthy of checking out next time I am up in Pembroke. Most of the routes at Saddle Head blur into one in my experience, but I've not done Wetstone. Sheer Delight does look good, might replace Caerfai Crack to broaden the range of crags. Likewise could get Rusty Slab in as a VS, and remove Joybringer (similarish to Gone with the Wimp?).
Noticed that The Hole at Trevallen is actually E1 in the new guide, so perhaps that needs replacing as well if I'm being strict about using the CC grades (they do seem a little soft in places).

In reply to The Ivanator:
As the idea of this sort of list is to encourage people to seek out less travelled routes, how about Toil and Trouble (VS 4c)in the Cauldron near Stack Rocks. Fine climbing in a truly spectacular location. I'd have that instead of The Cracks - a bit superfluous when you also have Meridian and Threadneedle Street on the same buttress.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Malice Aforethought at Crickmail Point is an absolute belter - miles better than the polished HVS horrors at St Govan's (I'd drop Front Line personally - just as polished as Army Dreamers and not as memorable IMO). I think it's also better than Aero on the same cliff. I haven't done it, but I would have thought Space should be in - it looks spectacular. Lost in Space (Mt Sion East) is very memorable and exposed and you ought to have at least one weird going-through-a-hole route.

Rick

In reply to Rick Sewards and Bob M:
Toil and Trouble now HVS in CC guide, looks great, added in place of the Hole as that is E1. Replaced Aero with Malice Aforethought. Lost in Space in for Front Line. Replaced The Cracks with Space, looks quality and convinced me to upset my HVS/VS symmetry!
Updated List: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1592

In reply to Rick Sewards:


I would agree Front Line is forgettable, but I didn't find it polished at all - Chieftain around the corner was what I would call polished.

Another option is Hercules (HVS 5a) - which I quite enjoyed, although enjoyed it mostly afterwards once the terror had passed. Found it miles harder than Army Dreamers and Front Line.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Given the list a few final tweaks - found a handful more Range West gems to extend the range of crags. Think it has got a little of everything now, stacks and pinnacles, caves and blowholes, walls, corners, juggy overhangs, traverses, technical slabs, well known classics and unsung gems.
50 routes, 30 crags hopefully the punter's Pembroke paradise, now just need to sun to shine!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1592