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What are the best, most exposed but easy routes in the UK?
I did Ledge climb at Bosigran a few weeks ago led Pitch 1 and 3, nothing too technical about it but it felt very exposed on the final pitch and I loved every minute of it.
Incidentally the description in the old guide book we had for Ledge climb said "The exposure explosion on the ledge is not for the uninitiated", also the F.A is logged as none other than the late great G.Mallory!
So what other HVDiffs or S4a's are there which are equally as exposed?
Post edited at 13:03
In reply to Steve-J-E:
I climbed Troutdale Pinnacle Troutdale Pinnacle (S) with my son last month on his second day of trad climbing. It's a spectacular route with plenty of exposure. The belay on top of the pinnacle (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=277082) is fantastic. It's graded S and I found the hardest moves were to get off the ground.
I climbed Troutdale Pinnacle Troutdale Pinnacle (S) with my son last month on his second day of trad climbing. It's a spectacular route with plenty of exposure. The belay on top of the pinnacle (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=277082) is fantastic. It's graded S and I found the hardest moves were to get off the ground.
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Lazarus (S 4a) - has to be in there.
Shangri-La (S 4a) - also brilliant.
Vertigo (S 4a) - not done it, but looks really good.
Avernus (S 4a) - not sure if that's what you're after, but it's so far the only Severe that I've chickened out of for looking too scary! Came back another time and just got in with it, and was highly impressed. Definitely in my top few Severes.
Lazarus (S 4a) - has to be in there.
Shangri-La (S 4a) - also brilliant.
Vertigo (S 4a) - not done it, but looks really good.
Avernus (S 4a) - not sure if that's what you're after, but it's so far the only Severe that I've chickened out of for looking too scary! Came back another time and just got in with it, and was highly impressed. Definitely in my top few Severes.
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
The top two pitches of Little Chamonix are v exposed at the grade for what is effectively roadside cragging.
Little Chamonix (VD)
The top two pitches of Little Chamonix are v exposed at the grade for what is effectively roadside cragging.
Little Chamonix (VD)
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
I always thought Needle Arete always felt good at VD and Troutdale Pinnacle at S
I always thought Needle Arete always felt good at VD and Troutdale Pinnacle at S
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In reply to Steve-J-E: Mariette Route (VD) nice little route up a pinnacle at the very top of the North side of Cheddar Gorge, great views of High Rock opposite and your own little summit to belay on.
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
I was going to say Zelda (HS 4b) but that's an HS 4b - still it's only really that for a few moves on the bottom pitch.
I was going to say Zelda (HS 4b) but that's an HS 4b - still it's only really that for a few moves on the bottom pitch.
In reply to Skyfall:
Likewise the top slab pitch of Poor Man's Peuterey (S 4a) at Tremadog.
> The top two pitches of Little Chamonix are v exposed at the grade for what is effectively roadside cragging.
Likewise the top slab pitch of Poor Man's Peuterey (S 4a) at Tremadog.
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In reply to All:
Some fantastic looking routes being suggested here, loads to put on the list for next year
Some fantastic looking routes being suggested here, loads to put on the list for next year
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Crumble (HS 4b) is fantastically exposed but almost never climbed, if it was the other side of the river they would be queuing out onto the Portway. Not as loose as the name implies but a trifle undergraded .
Crumble (HS 4b) is fantastically exposed but almost never climbed, if it was the other side of the river they would be queuing out onto the Portway. Not as loose as the name implies but a trifle undergraded .
In reply to Steve-J-E:
The Mark of the Arch (S 4a) is a pretty wild outing for Severe, one of the best I've done at that grade.
The Mark of the Arch (S 4a) is a pretty wild outing for Severe, one of the best I've done at that grade.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
The Cioch nose on Sgurr a'Chaorachain. V Diff. when you first see it you think "nothing that steep and exposed can possibly be v diff...but thats because you havnt seen the holds and the gear. amazing route. Cioch Nose (VD) "200m, 7 pitches. An absolute belter of a climb"
The Cioch nose on Sgurr a'Chaorachain. V Diff. when you first see it you think "nothing that steep and exposed can possibly be v diff...but thats because you havnt seen the holds and the gear. amazing route. Cioch Nose (VD) "200m, 7 pitches. An absolute belter of a climb"
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In reply to DerwentDiluted:
+1 also
Route II on Carn Dearg buttress on the Ben, Bullroar style slab exposure at severe.
Tidemark on Cioch nah Oighe, Arran, a severe ramp with a big drop.
Naismiths Route, Am Basteir, A fine exposed wall dropping away into Lota Coire.
> "Agag's Groove" must be a contender.
+1 also
Route II on Carn Dearg buttress on the Ben, Bullroar style slab exposure at severe.
Tidemark on Cioch nah Oighe, Arran, a severe ramp with a big drop.
Naismiths Route, Am Basteir, A fine exposed wall dropping away into Lota Coire.
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Hey, it's only July, seems a little premature to be writing 2016 off!
> Some fantastic looking routes being suggested here, loads to put on the list for next year
Hey, it's only July, seems a little premature to be writing 2016 off!
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
hmm, I'd probably go with January Jigsaw, Outside Edge Route and Quiver Rib as the most exposed V Diffs I've done in the U.K.
hmm, I'd probably go with January Jigsaw, Outside Edge Route and Quiver Rib as the most exposed V Diffs I've done in the U.K.
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In reply to The Ivanator:
Haha very true, got another climbing trip planned for mid August but not sure how many more weekends I will get away with this year! Been a good year for trips away, not just climbing ones
> Hey, it's only July, seems a little premature to be writing 2016 off!
Haha very true, got another climbing trip planned for mid August but not sure how many more weekends I will get away with this year! Been a good year for trips away, not just climbing ones
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Do they have to be as hard as HVDiff? The East Ridge of the In Pin is only a Moderate, but has exposure aplenty.
Do they have to be as hard as HVDiff? The East Ridge of the In Pin is only a Moderate, but has exposure aplenty.
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Gordon and Craig's Route (S 3c) takes some beating.
West Wall Climb (HVD) especially the last pitch
North Ridge (Grade-1) if you take the bad step then it's more like Diff than a scramble, and outrageously exposed
Gordon and Craig's Route (S 3c) takes some beating.
West Wall Climb (HVD) especially the last pitch
North Ridge (Grade-1) if you take the bad step then it's more like Diff than a scramble, and outrageously exposed
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Spiral Stairs
Crackstone Rib
Terrace Wall Variant
Outside Edge
New West (Pillar)
East Ridge (In Pinn)
... and generally, loads of things on the Cuillin Ridge
Spiral Stairs
Crackstone Rib
Terrace Wall Variant
Outside Edge
New West (Pillar)
East Ridge (In Pinn)
... and generally, loads of things on the Cuillin Ridge
Post edited at 15:10
In reply to lummox:
Quiver Rib (D) is Diff; but splendid whatever its grade. No match for climb id:373449 is a good shout. Amphitheatre Buttress (VD) has its moments, especially if you cross the pinnacles a cheval. Spiral Stairs (VD), Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b) and Tophet Wall (HS 4b) have their share too, though I realise I've gone beyond the grades you proposed myself after correcting somerone else for the same error.
Basically, go buy Classic Rock...
T.
Quiver Rib (D) is Diff; but splendid whatever its grade. No match for climb id:373449 is a good shout. Amphitheatre Buttress (VD) has its moments, especially if you cross the pinnacles a cheval. Spiral Stairs (VD), Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b) and Tophet Wall (HS 4b) have their share too, though I realise I've gone beyond the grades you proposed myself after correcting somerone else for the same error.
Basically, go buy Classic Rock...
T.
Post edited at 15:11
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In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Creagh Dhu and Tophet have spicy positions as well- good call. He needs Classic Rock as you say.
Creagh Dhu and Tophet have spicy positions as well- good call. He needs Classic Rock as you say.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Ash Tree Slabs (VDiff), Gimmer Crag - you almost immediately move into a very exposed position on the edge of the slab above the gully.
'D' Route (Severe 4a), Gimmer Crag
Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl (VDiff), Gimmer Crag
Ash Tree Slabs (VDiff), Gimmer Crag - you almost immediately move into a very exposed position on the edge of the slab above the gully.
'D' Route (Severe 4a), Gimmer Crag
Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl (VDiff), Gimmer Crag
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
I do want to do that. Whilst on Ledge climb and the other routes that day we kept looking across at it. 6 pitches I think so would take a good few hours. Didn't look as exposed as Ledge climb but I may be wrong.
> And how could I forget this? Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge (VD)
> T.
I do want to do that. Whilst on Ledge climb and the other routes that day we kept looking across at it. 6 pitches I think so would take a good few hours. Didn't look as exposed as Ledge climb but I may be wrong.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
In Pin (Mod) as already mentioned and Naismith's Route (Severe, Bastier Tooth) will take some beating at their grades.
In Pin (Mod) as already mentioned and Naismith's Route (Severe, Bastier Tooth) will take some beating at their grades.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
It's time well spent, an enjoyable climb from start to finish. Not as exposed as Ledge climb? Well I shan't say otherwise, but I think you're in for a day you'll remember for a long time, and for all the right reasons.
T.
> I do want to do that ... Didn't look as exposed as Ledge climb but I may be wrong.
It's time well spent, an enjoyable climb from start to finish. Not as exposed as Ledge climb? Well I shan't say otherwise, but I think you're in for a day you'll remember for a long time, and for all the right reasons.
T.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Sou'wester Slabs VDiff on Arran especially the last slab pitch and going up the chimneys.
Sou'wester Slabs VDiff on Arran especially the last slab pitch and going up the chimneys.
Post edited at 16:57
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
I won't be back down in Cornwall for another year now but i'll def do it next time! I think we'll commit the day just to that. In fact I think we'll commit to a bivi at the old mine so we can get a nice early start
> It's time well spent, an enjoyable climb from start to finish. Not as exposed as Ledge climb? Well I shan't say otherwise, but I think you're in for a day you'll remember for a long time, and for all the right reasons.
> T.
I won't be back down in Cornwall for another year now but i'll def do it next time! I think we'll commit the day just to that. In fact I think we'll commit to a bivi at the old mine so we can get a nice early start
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Cneifion Arete (D) might be worth a look. Only Diff but a remarkable route. One of the most pleasant outings I can remember at any grade.
Cneifion Arete (D) might be worth a look. Only Diff but a remarkable route. One of the most pleasant outings I can remember at any grade.
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In reply to Rob Powell LC&CC:
Of course it can. The ground is just the same distance away whether you're soloing E-numbers or on a Diff.
T.
Of course it can. The ground is just the same distance away whether you're soloing E-numbers or on a Diff.
T.
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In reply to Anti-faff:
It's quite exposed, but not particularly. A bit like Commando Ridge. Not exactly dizzying exposure. Not like things on the Cuillin MR like Naismith's or An Stac direct. Or Clach Glas. Or even the really amazing exposure on the summit ridge of Sgurr a Ghreadaidh (Grade III scramble, makes Crib Goch feel very, very tame by comparison). Or even the East Ridge of the In Pinn, which has Alpine exposure.
> Cneifion Arete (D) might be worth a look. Only Diff but a remarkable route. One of the most pleasant outings I can remember at any grade.
It's quite exposed, but not particularly. A bit like Commando Ridge. Not exactly dizzying exposure. Not like things on the Cuillin MR like Naismith's or An Stac direct. Or Clach Glas. Or even the really amazing exposure on the summit ridge of Sgurr a Ghreadaidh (Grade III scramble, makes Crib Goch feel very, very tame by comparison). Or even the East Ridge of the In Pinn, which has Alpine exposure.
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In reply to Rob Powell LC&CC:
Well, there are very easy things as in my last post. Naismith's at Severe feels nearly as exposed as Cemetery Gates. The top pitch of New West Route on Pillar (v diff) has similar exposure to/ is reminiscent of the HVSs on the wings of the Mot. And, of course, Main Wall on Cyrn Las (HS) is as exposed as many extremes in the Pass.
> Can anything as easy as S really be extremely exposed?
Well, there are very easy things as in my last post. Naismith's at Severe feels nearly as exposed as Cemetery Gates. The top pitch of New West Route on Pillar (v diff) has similar exposure to/ is reminiscent of the HVSs on the wings of the Mot. And, of course, Main Wall on Cyrn Las (HS) is as exposed as many extremes in the Pass.
Post edited at 20:40
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In reply to Rob Powell LC&CC:
I think there's a risk that we confuse precariousness-in-an-exposed-situation with exposure per se - though the two cannot be completely separated, it's true.
I think there's a risk that we confuse precariousness-in-an-exposed-situation with exposure per se - though the two cannot be completely separated, it's true.
In reply to OwenM:
I think its S. But you're right the whole thing leans out. Fall off and you're dangling in mid air!!
I think its S. But you're right the whole thing leans out. Fall off and you're dangling in mid air!!
In reply to Steve-J-E:
I've not done it, but the photos look extreme for a Diff! Symphony Crack (VD)
I've not done it, but the photos look extreme for a Diff! Symphony Crack (VD)
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Ledge climb at Bosigran;
Troutdale Pinnacle;
Napes Needle (traditionally a v'diff);
Slab & Notch on Pillar rock;
Crackstone rib;
Arete, chimney, and crack on Dow;
Symphony crack at Rhoscolyn
Ledge climb at Bosigran;
Troutdale Pinnacle;
Napes Needle (traditionally a v'diff);
Slab & Notch on Pillar rock;
Crackstone rib;
Arete, chimney, and crack on Dow;
Symphony crack at Rhoscolyn
In reply to Steve-J-E:
At their grades I'd go for the East Ridge of the Inn Pinn, Red Slab (D), Outside Edge and January Jigsaw. Three of them are well known, but Red Slab is as good as any of them, amazing pockety rock above a sizeable overhang at the top of 1000 feet of very steep broken ground.
At their grades I'd go for the East Ridge of the Inn Pinn, Red Slab (D), Outside Edge and January Jigsaw. Three of them are well known, but Red Slab is as good as any of them, amazing pockety rock above a sizeable overhang at the top of 1000 feet of very steep broken ground.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Not hvd or severe, but another vote for the East ridge of the inn pinn, or the clach glas traverse- exposure of a degree that I've not come across in the uk outside of the cuillin.
Not hvd or severe, but another vote for the East ridge of the inn pinn, or the clach glas traverse- exposure of a degree that I've not come across in the uk outside of the cuillin.
In reply to lummox:
January Jigsaw gets Severe in the SMC Glen Coe guide, and in Kevin Howett's Rock Climbing in Scotland - and on here (bang on S according to the voting).
> hmm, I'd probably go with January Jigsaw, Outside Edge Route and Quiver Rib as the most exposed V Diffs I've done in the U.K.
January Jigsaw gets Severe in the SMC Glen Coe guide, and in Kevin Howett's Rock Climbing in Scotland - and on here (bang on S according to the voting).
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Fairy Steps (HS 4B) at Heptonstall quarry. I took a non climbing mate up there about 25 years ago. Absolutely shat his pants on the traverse and last move up the arete.
Excellent quarry classic.
Wally
Fairy Steps (HS 4B) at Heptonstall quarry. I took a non climbing mate up there about 25 years ago. Absolutely shat his pants on the traverse and last move up the arete.
Excellent quarry classic.
Wally
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Has 'A' climb at Ilkley been mentioned. Mind bogglingly exposed and demonstrates the fact that you don't need difficulty or much height to build some exposure.
Has 'A' climb at Ilkley been mentioned. Mind bogglingly exposed and demonstrates the fact that you don't need difficulty or much height to build some exposure.
Post edited at 22:53
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Dives / Better Things at Dinas Cromlech.
Pitch 2 is very airy. It gets 4b, but it's not hard anywhere.
Luke
Dives / Better Things at Dinas Cromlech.
Pitch 2 is very airy. It gets 4b, but it's not hard anywhere.
Luke
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Ladies and gentlemen, I give you....Appian Way (Pillar) HS
Magnificently exposed
Ladies and gentlemen, I give you....Appian Way (Pillar) HS
Magnificently exposed
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Did this a few weeks ago - I think it fits the bill! Route B (HVD), HVD but definitely got my moneys worth from it!
Did this a few weeks ago - I think it fits the bill! Route B (HVD), HVD but definitely got my moneys worth from it!
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Top pitch of Arête, Chimney and Crack (Summer) (S 3c) on Dow too.
Top pitch of Arête, Chimney and Crack (Summer) (S 3c) on Dow too.
Post edited at 08:12
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Another vote for Route 1 Scout Crag at VD
Spiral Stairs VD
Outside Edge VD
Amphitheatre Buttless VD (crux pitch)
but for one of the most mind blowingly exposed easy climbs in the world you have to go to South Africa and sample Fledermaus at Du Toits Kloof, Western Cape, where you can experience 800ft of space under your feet, or some of the routes on Table Mountain - like Africa Crag and Fountain Ledge
Another vote for Route 1 Scout Crag at VD
Spiral Stairs VD
Outside Edge VD
Amphitheatre Buttless VD (crux pitch)
but for one of the most mind blowingly exposed easy climbs in the world you have to go to South Africa and sample Fledermaus at Du Toits Kloof, Western Cape, where you can experience 800ft of space under your feet, or some of the routes on Table Mountain - like Africa Crag and Fountain Ledge
Post edited at 09:00
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Your relationship to the ground is quite different on steep routes though. On ridges for example you never get the feeling of exposure you do on a vertical face. Easier routes tend to be ledgy and not as steep so you don't as often get that feeling of exposure as on something steep. The best easier routes (or more exposed at least) often navigate you over that steepness on easier ground and do give you that air beneath your feet feeling. Last night I did a HS called Lambeth Chimney (HS 4b) at Millstone, the final moves you step around into a groove just at the top right of the London Wall headwall, it's not hard but very airy and quite exciting, the route is pretty mediocre climbing but that exposed step off the arete and onto the headwall gets it the star. Likewise Gates of Eden (VS 5a) at Daddyhole (used to be much easier before the rockfall takes you out on exposed slab above a big overhang and gives you that exposure feeling too.
I really think steepness makes a big difference, so Agag's Groove is much more exposed than say the Gambit Climb.
> Of course it can. The ground is just the same distance away whether you're soloing E-numbers or on a Diff.
Your relationship to the ground is quite different on steep routes though. On ridges for example you never get the feeling of exposure you do on a vertical face. Easier routes tend to be ledgy and not as steep so you don't as often get that feeling of exposure as on something steep. The best easier routes (or more exposed at least) often navigate you over that steepness on easier ground and do give you that air beneath your feet feeling. Last night I did a HS called Lambeth Chimney (HS 4b) at Millstone, the final moves you step around into a groove just at the top right of the London Wall headwall, it's not hard but very airy and quite exciting, the route is pretty mediocre climbing but that exposed step off the arete and onto the headwall gets it the star. Likewise Gates of Eden (VS 5a) at Daddyhole (used to be much easier before the rockfall takes you out on exposed slab above a big overhang and gives you that exposure feeling too.
I really think steepness makes a big difference, so Agag's Groove is much more exposed than say the Gambit Climb.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
+1 for the Cioch Nose on Sgurr a'Chaorachain. If I remember rightly the third pitch starts with a rising traverse that takes you on to the crest of the nose. As you're already a couple of pitches up and on the second of two tiers the drop beneath you is massive at that point. You then climb a slabby wall with barely enough gear and the exposure just builds and builds, fantastic!
+1 for the Cioch Nose on Sgurr a'Chaorachain. If I remember rightly the third pitch starts with a rising traverse that takes you on to the crest of the nose. As you're already a couple of pitches up and on the second of two tiers the drop beneath you is massive at that point. You then climb a slabby wall with barely enough gear and the exposure just builds and builds, fantastic!
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
The Raven Girdle - Raven Crag Langdale, has a wonderfully exposed top pitch that takes the lip of the big overhang. Lots of space beneath the feet, good pro for leader and second - and it's still only a Severe.
The Raven Girdle - Raven Crag Langdale, has a wonderfully exposed top pitch that takes the lip of the big overhang. Lots of space beneath the feet, good pro for leader and second - and it's still only a Severe.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
If you're in Pembroke, try Sea Mist (HS 4a). You get quite a lot of air beneath your feet for a very small amount of climbing.
T.
If you're in Pembroke, try Sea Mist (HS 4a). You get quite a lot of air beneath your feet for a very small amount of climbing.
T.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
When I first did Ardus it was supposedly Severe and the top pitch felt incredibly exposed
When I first did Ardus it was supposedly Severe and the top pitch felt incredibly exposed
In reply to CathS:
If you think that was exposed then you need to do Gordon and Craig's (which is sort of a variation on it)...
> Top pitch of Arête, Chimney and Crack (Summer) (S 3c) on Dow too.
If you think that was exposed then you need to do Gordon and Craig's (which is sort of a variation on it)...
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Surprised nobody's mentioned Manx Wall on Glyder Fawr, HS but only 4a, and a lot of very steep rock below you on the top pitch.
Surprised nobody's mentioned Manx Wall on Glyder Fawr, HS but only 4a, and a lot of very steep rock below you on the top pitch.
In reply to Iain Thow:
Manx Wall is excellent, into the mix I would throw Reade's Route on Crib Goch.
Manx Wall is excellent, into the mix I would throw Reade's Route on Crib Goch.
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In reply to Bogwalloper:
I did it recently on a single with hideous rope drag and had to pull a load of slack to pull the rope over the top of the last slab.
Another I found fairly committing was Pedestal Route HVD 4a at the roaches.
I did it recently on a single with hideous rope drag and had to pull a load of slack to pull the rope over the top of the last slab.
Another I found fairly committing was Pedestal Route HVD 4a at the roaches.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
You have had some great suggestions, and on the basis one was mine please forgive me for:
Easy climbing about severe, in an exposed position.........ladies and gentlemen, I give you three pebble slab at Froggatt!
You have had some great suggestions, and on the basis one was mine please forgive me for:
Easy climbing about severe, in an exposed position.........ladies and gentlemen, I give you three pebble slab at Froggatt!
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Aside from already mentioned must-dos like Cioch Nose, Agags, Quiver Rib and the Inn Pinn, a route I never got around to doing but must qualify as exposed in every sense of the word is Wisdom Buttress on Beinn Lair.
Aside from already mentioned must-dos like Cioch Nose, Agags, Quiver Rib and the Inn Pinn, a route I never got around to doing but must qualify as exposed in every sense of the word is Wisdom Buttress on Beinn Lair.
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Eagle Ridge (S 4b)
Archer Ridge (V Diff or S; can't remember which!)
Wounded Knee (S; a bit hard for the grade)
Crowberry Ridge Direct (S)
M
Eagle Ridge (S 4b)
Archer Ridge (V Diff or S; can't remember which!)
Wounded Knee (S; a bit hard for the grade)
Crowberry Ridge Direct (S)
M
In reply to Steve-J-E:
I don't think Grooved Arete has been mentioned; exposed in places.
Dives/ Better Things has. Breathtaking exposure on it's second pitch.
I found gravity snapping at my heels on The Wrinkle. Rather unpleasantly. I was glad to reach the top
I don't think Grooved Arete has been mentioned; exposed in places.
Dives/ Better Things has. Breathtaking exposure on it's second pitch.
I found gravity snapping at my heels on The Wrinkle. Rather unpleasantly. I was glad to reach the top
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Thanks everyone, some great suggestions. Hopefully some help for others too who haven't been climbing long but want to get some good exposure.
Thanks everyone, some great suggestions. Hopefully some help for others too who haven't been climbing long but want to get some good exposure.
In reply to Rob Powell LC&CC:
I really enjoyed Pedestal route, my first mutipitch. The traverse felt quite committing and I couldn't find any gear, which was fine I thought, just took my time until holly bush crack bit. Hadn't given a thought to my second though who would have an equally big swing if he'd fell! Luckily he didn't!
> Another I found fairly committing was Pedestal Route HVD 4a at the roaches.
I really enjoyed Pedestal route, my first mutipitch. The traverse felt quite committing and I couldn't find any gear, which was fine I thought, just took my time until holly bush crack bit. Hadn't given a thought to my second though who would have an equally big swing if he'd fell! Luckily he didn't!
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
You've had some good suggestions of some great routes, but a lot of them aren't particularly exposed for the grade. I would exclude anything where you look straight down at the point about a metres below your feet and can see rock rather than empty space.
You've had some good suggestions of some great routes, but a lot of them aren't particularly exposed for the grade. I would exclude anything where you look straight down at the point about a metres below your feet and can see rock rather than empty space.
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In reply to Simon Caldwell:
This would fit the bill in every way except that it's not in this country and it's probably harder than S, although not by much as far as I remember.
Check out the photos:
Jacob's Ladder (16)
> I would exclude anything where you look straight down at the point about a metres below your feet and can see rock rather than empty space.
This would fit the bill in every way except that it's not in this country and it's probably harder than S, although not by much as far as I remember.
Check out the photos:
Jacob's Ladder (16)
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In reply to lummox:
Was going to suggest Outside Edge Route (VD) especially pitch two. It's not just an exposed section. The whole wall is open and undercut so the first part of the wall feels massively exposed!
Was going to suggest Outside Edge Route (VD) especially pitch two. It's not just an exposed section. The whole wall is open and undercut so the first part of the wall feels massively exposed!
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In reply to Steve-J-E:
Agree with Troutdale Pinnicle. Hard a right wobble on the final pitch of the severe when finishing up E1 Raindrop!
Agree with Troutdale Pinnicle. Hard a right wobble on the final pitch of the severe when finishing up E1 Raindrop!
In reply to Liam Ingram:
Not to mention King's Chimney at diff. Due to it's position the exposure is right there from the start.
Also maybe Punsters on the Cobbler?
> In Pin (Mod) as already mentioned and Naismith's Route (Severe, Bastier Tooth) will take some beating at their grades.
Not to mention King's Chimney at diff. Due to it's position the exposure is right there from the start.
Also maybe Punsters on the Cobbler?
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