In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the stats Dan - fingers crossed (!!) that Kalymnos jugs are just the tonic for you?
Priority: Ignore all of my functional goals until I can walk without a hobble and get my shoes on without moaning like an octogenarian!
Q3 functional goals:
- Benchmark finger strength % - Done. Now aim for 2% point increase (work out adaptation of the 2x max pull-up routine that worked so well last year, but in a way that doesn’t tweak my elbows)
- Benchmark an-cap – Done. Now aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
- Increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions.
August route goals:
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Clean and do Gorge projects:
o Link-up heaven; stamina f8a+/b?
o Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+/b?
- Bolt, clean and try rest of Kilnsey project – probably a 2017 RP aim now?
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
End of year route goals:
Continue with RP’ing projects (listed from stamina to boulder intensity):
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Bolt and clean rest of Kilnsey project
- Gorge projects, both f8a+/b
- Well Done Finish, f8b
- Waddage, f8b
- Cider Soak, f8a
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
- Tor link-up, f8a+/b
Week 31:
M - CyL after work. "1-hang" ascent of TOTG - after an epic of cleaning all of high break and refreshing myself on almost all of the moves, I set off on RP.
Start to CID was super quick, but Second Fifth was a fight (as always); not too tired in the wobbly block rest, but needed to stay quite long in bat-hang of Mr Skin before committing.
Rest in kneebar before High-Break was compromised by calf getting knackered and RF toes were a bit damp (not exactly perfect connies…!)
Got new "far point" of Bend sloper (4 moves further than pre-SA) - elbows out and power grunting like mad! (Also took 3rd sloper a bit too close - best bit is a crimpy section 2" up from LH end)
5min on the pad breathing through my arse, then pulled back on and went to the end via lowlife; which felt nails! Lower back and right hip flexors painfully tight overnight.
T - Cave after work. In retrospect, this was a stupid thing to do! Climbed pretty well, repeating stuff up to 7B+, but hip/back grumbled more as the session went on.
W - Back seized up in office and I was left hobbling about like a cripp. BBQ gluttony.
T - WFH and barely able to get about the house – many painkillers necked.
F - Painful massage/physio session
S - Gentle potter along Anglesey coast path to pub and back.
S - More coastal path pottering – back starting to ease – only right-side painful now.
I hope to ease myself back into some gentle fingerboarding this week, and be able to climb again by the weekend when I have a trip to the SW planned.
In the meantime, I’ve used some of my spare time to pull together another blog entry for your delight:
http://allysmithblog.blogspot.de/2016/08/a-blog-week-until-im-up-to-date-po... - Enjoy!