UKC

UKC FitClub week 489

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 Dandan 31 Jul 2016
Morning FitClubbers!

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=646351

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s posters:

Si dH - Who knew we’d be complaining about hot conditions! Did it dry off any crags?
Biscuit - New shoes are almost cheating really, especially if it’s a new brand to you.
AJM - Loads of time on rock, good stuff. Fair bit of road mileage too!
Ian Bell - It’s always disappointing to tick everything worthwhile at a particular crag, it’s holds a lot less interest after that.
JayK - Strong burger training! 7 in a row? I do like a bit of mileage now and then, it might motivate you on to harder stuff.
Bobling - Good to see you have a plan, although i’m not seeing much climbing, is that part of your plan?!
Hms - Forget being a purist, 100 7a or above sounds like a cool target. I’ve started logging dog attempts too so I don’t think I can work mine out..
D1 - Did the outdoor excursion happen?
Ally Smith - Those benchmark increases look encouraging, I need more stats in my life!
Dandan82 - Finger fallen off yet?
Nick Russell - Crushing cheddar one route at a time! Awesome looking week.
Emily - Well done for doing anything at all while being way with work, i’m terrible when I break from routine.
Tyler - Sounds like maybe even easy days on rock are a bad idea for the shoulder right now…
Leeboy1985 - Looks good, ready for North Wales?
Hokkyokusei - I think a gentle week is allowed after your holiday!
Heelhookofglory - 70 hour week? Blimey. Did you get another go at the comp problems this week?
Just Tintin - Nice week, spill the beans about Monday then...
 Nick Russell 31 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:
> Nick Russell - Crushing cheddar one route at a time! Awesome looking week.

Thanks for the stats Dan. Unfortunately no more Cheddar crushing this week, but got outside plenty again. Probably due a bit of rest...

M - Avon with Emily. Repeated M1 (E1 5b)
T - 11km run, attempting to build pace through km 2-4 and 5-7
W - Avon, Central Wall (E4 6a)
T - 9.5km run, 6x[1:30 on/3:00 off] intervals. pm: Cheddar, Price Evans. Had a go at Secret Cabaret (8a) but it was well hard. I'll leave that one until I need another project.
F - 6km run.
S - Bouldering at Ramshaw. Failed on a bunch of stuff, including Press Direct Sit-start (f7A+) (fell off the top-out, same as when I last tried it in December 2012).
S - Morning bouldering at Nesscliffe. Ticked a couple of problems, then failed on Berlin's Fallen (V5). The last couple of moves are well hard.

So, I succeeded in losing a load of skin over the weekend. Limestone skin doesn't get on very well with sandstone bouldering. I could blame poor conditions, but weakness and low psyche probably had more of an impact.

STG
  • A few Cheddar N routes I've had my eyes on. Tick Sing a Mean Toon, Kid (7b+). Other candidates: Circus, Circus (7c), Everyday Lives of Ordinary People (7c)
  • Lead through all the moves on Right-Hand Man (8a) Didn't get up to the Remnant this week
  • Running: over 100km in August, including 1 week with 50km. Managed a decent volume this week with no negative effects (yet...)

    MTG
  • Sub-90 in Bristol half in September.
  • A tick of Right-Hand Man (8a) doesn't seem completely out of the question...

    LTG
  • Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place
  • All the Avon Gorge routes in the West Country Climbs Rockfax. I'm at around 90% of these, and there's only 3 routes above E4 in there. This could be possible...

    BHAG
  • The Long Hope Route
  • Black Bean
  •  hms 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    thanks Dan. My beloved family scoffed at me being anything other than totally purist so I spent some time on excel removing anything which was top rope or a duplicate. This reduced the total to 71 so probably too many left before 100 to get it this year.

    M - cycle commute. Woodcroft quarry in the evening, Got a 7a+ onsight, my first OS in the 7s in the UK. Totally techie flat wall fiddly GQR (grey quarry route) so was well chuffed.
    T - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab.
    W - cycle commute. TCA in evening, trying last weeks comp problems. Had a really good time trying things much harder than I normally would.
    T - cycle commute. Blasted work evening meal. Walked home cos I was feeling in need of some space by then!
    F - Cheddar, The Wave. Started damp & soapy but dried well during the day. Put Pyshcobabble to bed (horrendous 6b+), then got frustrated at a 7b+ which appeared to have absolutely no holds on. D1 ran out of steam/skin on Islands in the City so then ended up trying to flash it when over tired & under rested. Failed on 1 move under the roof, it will go easily when I sort that - another time.
    S - couple of miles walking. Core session.
    S - back to Woodcroft to try a new 7b+. It is horrendously badly bolted - I believe the first ascentionist had to have a major rethink of the route after a friend had put the bolts in for him, so the route goes about 2m right of the bolts. Pretty much got a sequence after a lot of effort. Needs refining, plus some trad gear so I can pre-equip the old trad line it goes close to then lead on 2 ropes - that way if I fall I won't have a scything sideways swing.

    so 3 times out on rock, making the most of the weather. It doesn't look so good during this week so don't know if we'll get out again before the weekend.
    OP Dandan 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Oh can anyone do the stats next week? Cos i'll only flipping well be in Kalymnos!
     Si dH 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:
    Hey Dan, conditions have been much better this weekend! I'm waiting hopefully for conditions/cleaning reports from some Peak crags over this weekend. Things are definitely on the up though, I'm hoping the forecast rain tomorrow night is fairly limited.

    2016 goals:

    - Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night

    - Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
    - Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
    - Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
    - The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
    - The Mentalist (f7C)
    - Paint it Black (f7C)
    - Tetris (f7C)

    - Arch Enemies (7c+ - done YYFY!)
    - 8a

    M: rest
    T: Morning core session. Evening went to the Climbing Unit to try the same aeropow circuit workout on the orange 6c that I had done 2-3 weeks earlier. Pleased to say I had definitely improved after all the FoC, and doing 8 reps with rest time equal to climb time felt ok whereas previously I failed finishing the 7th I think. I had 30 mins rest then did another set.
    W: Morning core session. Evening did a shortish repeater-based fingerboard session. Ie, 2 sets of 6 reps of 7/3 repeaters with 3 hold types: 4 finger 18mm edge, front 3 good bm2000 crimp, back 3 same hold.
    T: Rest
    F: Rest
    S: Dovedale. Warmed up putting the draws on Arch Enemies. Belayed for half an hour then had a burn. Suddenly found myself at the top, got ovee excited and fell from the finishing hold. Reviewing the video, I had literally jumped for it, which is bonkers (it's a big slap but you need to keep your feet on). 30-40 rest then had another go and sent! Awesome. Felt almost fresh when getting to the jug in the roof, a massive difference from previous sessions. After that, I had onsight goes at Arch Rival (7a) and the 7a+ over to the right. Fell off both at the top. RP'd arch rival first attempt but didn't bother with the other, the moves are a bit rubbish.
    S: Fingerboard benchmarking session. Would welcome comparisons to others, or comments on what seems good/bad. Max 5 second hang strength on a 20mm edge was BW (70kg) - 5 kg on rh and BW - 10 kg on lh. So 125kg total. For ancap benchmarking purposes, my max single hang time with 60% of this (75kg ie BW + 5kg) was 38 seconds. After a 10 min good rest, I then did a continuous 10s on / 3s off repeater set with the same weight and first failed after 71 seconds. (I then did that last set again.) For additional info my last FoC benchmarking session to test aerobic vs anaerobic enduramce came as out as 145s, 119s, 95, 93, 87, 72, 65, 60.

    Injury catalogue: no significant change in anything this week. Just felt a minor twinge in my left ring finger this evening but I think it's a nothing.

    Weight last Sunday night was 10st 13lb.

    Obviously a great week. Focus now is some more bouldering, and trying an F8a if one that inspires me is dry. I might have a partner lined up for The Free Monster (8a).....

    Ps. The one downside of all this is that I've now totally shot my chances of getting my Font grade to equal my French grade...a couple of weeks back I really thought it was on at 7c...doh!

    Si
    Post edited at 20:39
     AJM 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    > Ps. The one downside of all this is that I've now totally shot my chances of getting my Font grade to equal my French grade...a couple of weeks back I really thought it was on at 7c...doh!

    Not something to be proud of!!!

     Si dH 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to AJM:

    The main aim of it was to wind you up
     Si dH 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    > Oh can anyone do the stats next week? Cos i'll only flipping well be in Kalymnos!

    Dan, I haven't done it for ages so put me down for a week.
    Si
     jas128 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan! Managed to get out on rock 3 times this week and once indoors. My week is very similar to hms'

    M: Woodcroft Quarry. 6a lead, then attempt at 7a+ on toprope. 6a was a retro onsight, 7a+ was not my thing - tiny tiny holds!
    T: Nothing
    W: TCA trying old comp problems. Good session, but skin still not good enough to keep up at the end with hms
    T: Nothing
    F: Cheddar - islands in the city (7a+). I had 2 top rope goes on this and have most of the moves sussed, and it will go in a session or two more. However, I completely lost all kind of psych just before my 3rd attempt.
    S: Couple miles walking
    S: Woodcroft again. This time on rippled and toned (7a) had a couple of toprope goes first to work out the sequence, then 2 lead attempts but neither were successful. Again, the psych just went at the end of the session.

    So all in all a good week, but the complete mental shutdown at end of sessions working things slightly harder for me is getting rather annoying. Anyone have any advice? I'm not the kind of person that gets super psyched (similar to hms) but these are routes I really want to do yet I'm having a mental switch off after a few attempts.

    STG (July) - get fit! In particular - lose exam weight, get my callouses back, manage a decent length session!
    So I'm doing fairly well with this. Still got a bit of the exam weight hanging around, but the callouses are there again and I'm managing better length sessions, but not quite where I'd like to be yet.
    MTG (Summer) - Climb 2 times a week (and not just bouldering) plus core and fingerboarding, up to 6c lead, and boulder to the same level as hms. Hopefully, sort out job, move etc
    So the job stuff is majorly on hold. I'm definitely managing to get out 2 times a week currently, but feel some indoor routes would probably be a good idea at some point and I need to do more core and fingerboarding. Got 2 7a/+ outdoor projects currently, but haven't tried much indoors.
     hms 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to jas128:

    well I did offer to help your psyche by chanting G-O-O-D-J-O-B as you climbed but I was strictly forbidden from doing so!!!
     jas128 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to hms:

    well I knew that wasn't going to help!!
     AJM 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Cheers Dan.

    As expected a quieter week this week with visiting parents this weekend.

    Monday - gardening tastic. Took down the remainder of the trees in the leylandii hedge of doom and stripped branches from trunks. Hard work.
    Tuesday - felt Beasted after a fairly busy run of it. Crashed in the evening. Sat and read Peak Rock which was good for the psyche and actually reminded me of the joy of an occasional evening of just relaxing.
    Wednesday - life admin nonsense
    Thursday - winspit after work. 6a+ and 6c to warm up then flashed Peppercorn Rate (7a) which was excellent and didn't quite get the aptly named I Thought You Had It! (7a). A nice evening and some good exercise for the arms.
    Friday - parents
    Saturday - parents. Dorset chilli festival which was great fun
    Sunday - parents. They helped with a bunch of garden stuff which meant 2 runs to the tip to deposit tonnes of leylandii branches.

    Hopefully do some decent training this week and then Switzerland at the weekend - 4 days with mrsAJM to start then adventures ahoy with Duncan for the rest of the week.
     biscuit 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Cheers Dan. Sadly they weren't magic shoes, just shoes that can perform far better than i can

    Not a great week - again. After training 4 days on the bounce last week (i missed a session of last weeks report where i went to try an outdoor traverse - it was nails) and four 12 hour days at work i was (un)surprisingly tired on my Monday session on The Bulge (5th day on). I couldn't link anything together at all. Nothing in the tank. Empty.

    However we saw some inspired beta for the big throw move at the top. Unfortunately by the time i'd dragged my sorry arse up to the top to try it i was too knackered. The throw at the top is the classic move of the route, the way everyone does it, there is no other way to do it - except this possibly easier way. Just goes to show you should never close your mind to possibilities.

    Had a rest day on Tuesday and ate like a horse. I think i'm going to carb it up a bit on climbing days. Take something sugary along for a boost.

    Wednesday i tried an AnCap session but got really bad pains from my bicep insertion down to my elbow and up to my wrist. Not good. Sacked it off and rested the rest of the week. Took the time to write a beta sheet out to help with the sequence.

    Went for a big walk in the Howgills on Saturday (calorie deficit over ridden by excessive BBQ and beer) and a quick auto belay session today to see how the arm felt - OK.

    Back tomorrow to see what the seepage is like and hopefully feeling fresher.
     biscuit 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Si dH:
    In comparison to mine i have slightly stronger (and equal both sides) fingers but you beat me on your FoC. It looks like quite a nice curve if i'm imagining it right. First set should be the length of your goal route i believe - so you've got 2 and a half minutes to get up it. Mine crashed after 1st set (AnCap weakness) and finished quite low. Can't remember the exact figures now. Are you doing the 1-3-5 or 1-2-3 version? If 1-3-5 i'd be happy enough, it's better than mine, which may be why i'm failing on The Bulge!

    And well done on Arch Enemies. Solid progress!
    Post edited at 22:38
     Bobling 31 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan, yeah climbing, huh...it would be nice but sadly with a job and two kids five and under time is non-existent (at least if I want to keep the aforementioned job and kids!). I could try and get to TCA a night a week but the entrance fee just kills me...though perhaps I need to re-evaluate this if I am serious about making some progress.

    A frustrating week for me - good start but then was ill for a few days so just felt sorry for myself. However got back on with it again tonight by heading to Avon for an evening solo session there for the first time this summer. It was good to touch real rock but I was ,as stats show, fat and weak - the boulder start to Night Cap I could do but didn't have the nerve to mantle the top out and I fell off all the cruxes of the New Quarry traverse. Still after spending some time working them I started to remember the sequences so if I can get back there soon then perhaps I could do a bit better. In other news I have taken the first steps in fixing my leg rather than adopting my usual strategy of "perhaps if I don't run on it for six months it will get better and then I can just pretend I don't have a problem till I try to run on it again".

    Stats:
    Mon - Swim, 1500m, Average length time 38.77s, Total 39.25 m
    Tues - P38, S34
    Weds - P39, S32
    Thurs - Nothing
    Fri - ill
    Sat - ill
    Sun - Bouldering in Avon, fat and weak.
    Weight: 72.35
    Injury report: Leg defo not good, three weeks no running and it is still not right. Going to the osteopath next Friday.

    Goals:
    Short Term (next four weeks)
    Sort out some sort of training regime/goals/structure. Hopefully the ability to use Fitclub as a yardstick to record progress and to clarify objectives and tactics will help with this!
    Make progress towards press-up sit up targets e.g: 44 press ups in 2 mins and 50 sit ups.
    Get back to New Quarry and make some progress!

    Medium Term (over course of next year)
    Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running.
    Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Suspension Flake at Hound Tor, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi
    Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.

    Long Term
    I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH

    BHAG - Cenotaph Corner
     Si dH 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to biscuit:
    > In comparison to mine i have slightly stronger (and equal both sides) fingers but you beat me on your FoC. It looks like quite a nice curve if i'm imagining it right. First set should be the length of your goal route i believe - so you've got 2 and a half minutes to get up it. Mine crashed after 1st set (AnCap weakness) and finished quite low. Can't remember the exact figures now. Are you doing the 1-3-5 or 1-2-3 version? If 1-3-5 i'd be happy enough, it's better than mine, which may be why i'm failing on The Bulge!

    > And well done on Arch Enemies. Solid progress!

    Thanks for the thoughts. The FoC is actually on a beastmaker 2000 fingerboard as that's all I have at home. I go up and down between the good crimps and the small crimps. Absolute numbers therefore not really comparable with others for this exercise, but the shape of the curve and plateau % hopefully should be. My plateau is approx 40% of max (sometimes up to 45%) which I think shows my ancap is better than my aero. This also makes sense with the fact that doing this for 3 weeks (essentially aeropow training) gave me such a boost.

    AE took me just over 3 mins in total but it gets hard after maybe 20-30 seconds so the 2.5 mins sounds about right!
    Post edited at 07:36
     Si dH 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to biscuit:

    Ps looks to me like you need to take more systematic rest days. I would literally never do 4 (or even 3) days 'on' except on a trip, and generally take a full day rest before any outside trip, 2 full days before any serious 'redpoint' attempt day. I know this varies a lot between people, but trying to redpoimt 5th day on would destroy just about anyone.
     Ian Bell 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Great work on Arch enemies Si.

    STG = another 7a+ by end of July. One weekend left although I am in Portland for it. FAIL although managed 2x7a
    MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 4x7a, 2x7a+.
    BHAG = 8a by 40

    Mon - 45 mins rings

    Tues - 45 min 10 sec max hangs fingerboard

    Thurs - 45 mins 7 on / 3 off repeaters fingerboard

    Sat - Portland and Battleship. Warmed up on the always excellent Buoys will be Buoys (6b+), then had a go on Dreams Burn Down (7a+). Didn't really enjoy that one, very sharp crux so decided to help my gf redpoint Jurassic Shift (7a). Got it 2nd go, she made good progress although didn't quite get it. Evening - margarita time!

    Sun - suprisingly not too hungover. Did Burning Skies (6c) to warm up which was great and quite pumpy. Then got Pining for Glossop (7a) 3rd go, should really have been 2nd.

    Decent week, very busy with work so not much mid week but a couple of 7s dispatched in short order is OK. This week likely to be similar, hopefully back on Strawberry Tubin (7b) at the weekend.
     biscuit 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:
    It did!

    I wasn't redpointing though. Sadly not got to that stage yet. I wouldn't mind feeling tired if I could still do some links/beta tweaks but I was too tired for that even.

    It was desperation kicking in. I was working at the wall thurs to sun and so took advantage. They weren't full on sessions but led to accumulated fatigue and a very sore arm. Lesson learned I think. Probably not though
    Post edited at 09:25
    OP Dandan 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:
    Thanks me, a slightly more typical taper week this time, finger seems to be doing pretty good, weird forearm pain thankfully subsided in a couple of days.
    I went straight to work from Sheffield at the weekend so didn't have any opportunity to sort out my food for the week, I tried to eat reasonably well but it's really tricky without pre-organised meals!

    M: Mountain Bike; Bought a snazzy new hardtail and went to Cannock to try it out. On reflection, doing 15 miles of hilly red and black trails was perhaps not the most sensible reintroduction to mountain biking after 15+ years! The technical difficulty was fine but the sheer volume of cardio effort involved nearly killed me. Not to mention certain parts of me that are still bruised today...
    I'd like to add a bit of this into my routine, it's the most fun cardio exercise I've found so far.

    T: Cancelled Lattice assessment, did nothing instead

    W: Moved to a new weeknight lodgings, spent most of the evening dis- and re-assembling the most complicated bed frame in existence.

    T: Indoor Boulder; Taped the finger up and tried to favour it where possible, ended up climbing as hard as ever with no issues, repeated the V8 I got 2 weeks ago but it actually went slightly more easily, plus we made up two other problems approx V8-9, one of which I managed to tick.

    F: Nothing

    S-S: Epic weekend of DIY; hired a digger and a breaker, basically tore my garden to bits! Foundations have been dug for the new garage, profile boards erected, stubborn Bay tree stump was no match for a bit of hydraulic leverage, old garage slab has been split down the middle. Despite spending a fair amount of time sat in a comfy chair twiddling with joysticks, there was still some serious graft involved, I was knackered!
    It showed on Saturday evening, I'm usually 66kg 8% bodyfat (according to my scales), on Saturday I came in at 65kg 7.6% bodyfat! Digging holes is a good fat burner...

    No goals this week, I'm off to Kalymnos on Wednesday! I'm hoping for good things, possibly something 8a flavoured, but it might be too hot to climb hard so I might come back with a bunch of 7a's and a tan, but that's fine by me. I'll do a whole new set of goals when I get back.
    Post edited at 09:37
     Emily 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dandan. Mixed week this week, got a bit lazy in the middle of it and didn't have much climbing success. But I did get to go outside 4 times which is nice I guess.

    Mon Climbing in Avon Gorge, seconded Nick on M1 (E1 5b). Easier than I expected.
    Tue Nothing.
    Wed Nothing.
    Thu Climbing at Cheddar, tried Rustler (6c) again. Some progress. Also fell/jumped off significantly above a bolt, instead of my usual screeching and downclimbing act.
    Fri Running, 5.9km in 32:11. Felt really sluggish.
    Sat Attempted bouldering at Ramshaw, might as well have been nothing. Really don't get along with gritstone at all, got scared of my own shadow, and didn't dare even try the only problem that actually looked fun.
    Sun Bouldering at Nesscliffe, went a bit better in that I did try some moves, didn't actually manage to do anything though.

    Goals:

    Short term (Aug)
    • work on fear
      • bad weekend for being scared. Got my coaching session this coming week, hoping this helps!
    • work on Rustler (6c) some more
      • went back to it this week, would quite like to try it again

    Medium term (Aug, Sep, Oct)
    • maintain weight in 56-58kg range
      • 59.4kg, half a kg up since before work trip. Need to pay more attention to what I'm eating, failing at this lately
    • go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
      • not good bouldering this weekend

    Maybe someday
    • redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
    • redpoint another something beginning with 7 outdoors??
    • lead a VS???

     hokkyokusei 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    > Hokkyokusei - I think a gentle week is allowed after your holiday!

    Less gentle this week, and feeling good for it

    m - 10k cycling
    t - 10k cycling, 10k off road run 223m of ascent 1:03, slightly slower than the target of an hour for this run
    w - 10k cycling
    t - 10k cycling, 16.5km off road running. Training / partial recce for the Yorkshireman.
    f - 10k cycling
    s - Horton Park parkrun 22:50! Surprisingly quick - not only a PB for Horton, but an overall parkrun PB and only 7 secs off my all time 5k PB
    s - 18km very gentle cycling

    7 day average weight: 78.3kg, body fat 17.9%.

    STG - parkrun PBs at Bradford or Halifax.
    MTG - Complete the Yorkshireman Marathon (September) in 5hr30min
     Ally Smith 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks for the stats Dan - fingers crossed (!!) that Kalymnos jugs are just the tonic for you?

    Priority: Ignore all of my functional goals until I can walk without a hobble and get my shoes on without moaning like an octogenarian!

    Q3 functional goals:
    - Benchmark finger strength % - Done. Now aim for 2% point increase (work out adaptation of the 2x max pull-up routine that worked so well last year, but in a way that doesn’t tweak my elbows)
    - Benchmark an-cap – Done. Now aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
    - Increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions.

    August route goals:
    - Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
    - Clean and do Gorge projects:
    o Link-up heaven; stamina f8a+/b?
    o Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+/b?
    - Bolt, clean and try rest of Kilnsey project – probably a 2017 RP aim now?
    - Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b

    End of year route goals:
    Continue with RP’ing projects (listed from stamina to boulder intensity):
    - Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
    - Bolt and clean rest of Kilnsey project
    - Gorge projects, both f8a+/b
    - Well Done Finish, f8b
    - Waddage, f8b
    - Cider Soak, f8a
    - Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
    - Tor link-up, f8a+/b

    Week 31:
    M - CyL after work. "1-hang" ascent of TOTG - after an epic of cleaning all of high break and refreshing myself on almost all of the moves, I set off on RP.

    Start to CID was super quick, but Second Fifth was a fight (as always); not too tired in the wobbly block rest, but needed to stay quite long in bat-hang of Mr Skin before committing.
    Rest in kneebar before High-Break was compromised by calf getting knackered and RF toes were a bit damp (not exactly perfect connies…!)
    Got new "far point" of Bend sloper (4 moves further than pre-SA) - elbows out and power grunting like mad! (Also took 3rd sloper a bit too close - best bit is a crimpy section 2" up from LH end)
    5min on the pad breathing through my arse, then pulled back on and went to the end via lowlife; which felt nails! Lower back and right hip flexors painfully tight overnight.
    T - Cave after work. In retrospect, this was a stupid thing to do! Climbed pretty well, repeating stuff up to 7B+, but hip/back grumbled more as the session went on.
    W - Back seized up in office and I was left hobbling about like a cripp. BBQ gluttony.
    T - WFH and barely able to get about the house – many painkillers necked.
    F - Painful massage/physio session
    S - Gentle potter along Anglesey coast path to pub and back.
    S - More coastal path pottering – back starting to ease – only right-side painful now.

    I hope to ease myself back into some gentle fingerboarding this week, and be able to climb again by the weekend when I have a trip to the SW planned.

    In the meantime, I’ve used some of my spare time to pull together another blog entry for your delight:
    http://allysmithblog.blogspot.de/2016/08/a-blog-week-until-im-up-to-date-po... - Enjoy!
     Ally Smith 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to biscuit:

    > Not a great week - again. After training 4 days on the bounce... ...and four 12 hour days at work i was (un)surprisingly tired on my Monday session on The Bulge (5th day on). I couldn't link anything together at all. Nothing in the tank. Empty.

    There shouldn't any surprise in your performance 5th day on!

    > However we saw some inspired beta for the big throw move at the top.

    You found the right-foot in the pocket drop-knee method? I considered that, but decided against it due to the extra time faff of setting up verses just laying one on double quick.

    > Back tomorrow to see what the seepage is like and hopefully feeling fresher.

    Bon chance!

     Ally Smith 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Nice tickage Si

    No rain on the outskirts of the peak for me last night - so maybe things are staying dry?
     Si dH 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Think it will depend on how far north the rain gets tonight and tomorrow - it looked this morning like it will hit the southern peak but possibly not the northern half.
    Good luck getting over the achies & pains..sounds a bit bad!
    Peitil 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to hokkyokusei:

    'Gentle cycling'? You should have been riding my bike. My undercarriage is still recovering
     biscuit 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Yes that's the one Ally. It fits me nicely. Foot up while rh still in bowling ball feels very steady instead of desperate for the move after. Horses for courses.
     SteveM 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    I'm a new poster on fitclub, just trying to restart some good habits and get fitter again... apologies but I've not completely be paying attention so if I miss something or screw it up then put me back on course...

    STG (end of August)
    Re-establish fitness habits; get back climbing, running, biking and some antagonistics/core work
    Focus on trad outdoors

    MTG (end of 2016)
    Solid at UK HVS
    Regular exercise schedule

    LTG (2017 and beyond)
    Orange alpine circuit at Font
    Multi-day ski tours
    Denali
    Yosemite big walling again

    BHAG
    Big wall solo

    Last week was
    Mon Nowt, just back from 2 weeks holiday
    Tue Run
    Wed Climbing at Almscliff, easy solo circuit
    Thu Climbing at Depot, easy circuits plus 3 sets of 5 pull-ups, 10 push-ups and 5 leg raises
    Fri Nowt
    Sat Climbing at Pot Scar, leading VS
    Sun Climbing at Pot Scar, leading VS + side runners on an HVS
    OP Dandan 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to SteveM:

    Welcome along Steve
     Climbthatpitch 01 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dandan

    Yeah recovered enough for north wales. Did not do as much as I wanted as I took it easy and one of our friends come who was new to trad so spent a lot of time climbing next to him teaching him to place gear which in the end he lead his first trad climb and I think he has found his calling as his gear placements are amazing and I wish mine were that good when I started.
    Back to some serious training this week now

    This weeks STG
    Maintain weight and do some light walking and make sure in fit state for north wales at the end of the week.
    Lots of easy mountaineering routes on the weekend. - Tick actually managed to lose 1kg now down to 83kg

    Next week STG
    Get back to training and drop to 82kg
    Hopefully take my wife on her first wild camp next weekend (Welsh weather dependant)

    MTG Sept 2016
    Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
    Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
    Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept

    LTG winter 2016/2017
    Get experience in Scottish winter

    BHAG
    Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
    Orion Face Direct (V 5)

    Monday - Rest.
    Tuesday - Rest.
    Wednesday - Rest.
    Thursday - Rest.
    Friday - Some easy routes on Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf following up next to my mate. Tried to lead Recess Right (HS 4b) but backed off after having a nightmare on the first moves and finding no protection to go around the outside to the flake. Lead Recess Left (HS 4a) no way is this the same grade as recess right. Im no expert but compareing these that are the same grade recess right is much harder and a bit of a sandbag
    Saturday - Spent time on Tryfan Fach again climbing next to my mate which eventually got him the confindence to lead a route placing his own gear. I then lead Central Slab Route (VD). Done some bouldering in the night then on Caseg Fraith Boulder up to v2. Want to come back and do the v3 arete
    Sunday - Had to leave by 2pm so done The Ordinary Route (D) in big boots. Lead it in 3 pitches but I went off route at the top and ended up leading the top of charity and by the time I got to the top only had 1 meter of rope left.

    Happy training
    Lee
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan. Just done the best single-pitch route of my life. A couple of weeks ago I was looking through an article on sea stacks and got sidetracked onto the weird rock feature at Blackchurch. I targeted the E2 as a comeback project (thanks Nick and AJM) and then was a bit surprised to knock it out on Monday. This has thrown me a bit as I'd readjusted my STGs and MTGs to account for coming back from injury. But with the volume of E1s in the last few weeks and now E2 I feel I need to upscale them a bit. Please nag me if I haven't done so by next week!

    M - Sacre Coeur (E2 5c). Bloody brilliant route - situation, exposure, moves. Though I am definitely not a slab person and have no ankles, I somehow managed to avoid any torqued feet and pump. Ben had both in a major way on second, so maybe it's a small fingers and toes thing? Photo (thanks Susanna!) here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wh3069x2n6jdl26/Photo%2027-07-2016%2C%2007%2038%2...
    Drove home late feeling like it was a dream.
    T - rest though late night as went to Greenwich Festival to see Adam Buxton do Bowie
    W - conditioning/fingerboard.
    T - coaching at Big Rock. Had intended to do a bit myself but didn't find the time.
    F - good WCS planning meeting in Sheffield. Two separate unstructured boulder blitzes at Climbing Works before and Climbing Unit after.
    S - Cratcliffe bouldering bits and bobs. Tried Razor Roof (f6C) but just a bit too tired after a big week. Will definitely go fresher so I'll save it for the winter grit list.
    S - Dovedale. Absolutely knackered but did an E1 and went home for cake.
     AJM 02 Aug 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    Well done!
     Nick Russell 02 Aug 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    Nicely done on Sacre Couer. I'm glad I didn't put you off by telling you about my sore feet!
     Si dH 02 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:
    Just randomly came across this article on Women's Running magazine because Google Newstand flagged up the word 'climb' to my feed... thought it was nicely written, succinct, certainly applicable to all of us, and worth sharing for anyone going through a 'down' phase.

    http://womensrunning.competitor.com/2016/08/nyc-running-mama/why-runners-ne...
    Post edited at 20:25
     JayK 02 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Llandudno heavy this week.

    M-parisellas, pottered around before ticking a cave right of passage (Ring of Fire)
    T-more parisellas, did 4 or 5 problems from the CB low start.
    W-Ran round the Orme. Around 37:30 point to point. Reckon there's a least another 2min 30 to be had with my current fitness.
    T-Rest?
    F- parisellas, did broken heart. Fell off the jug of lip service twice first. I don't like ticking routes too quickly these days!
    S-LPT. Got really pumped on bad boy. 3 attempts before sacking it off for a potter in the cave.
    S- ended up being a 9mile run as the pavement ran out on a 60mph, so ran back the way I came.
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan. Yes and I hope not to repeat that too many times. It's great to be busy and being my own boss means I can take some downtime when things settle. I did have another go at the comp and flashed a few more problems. I'm still either flashing or not doing them at all, which leaves me thinking that my red pointing is off. Good to know. A good solid week this week but I'm suffering today (Wed) from the volume of mixing the bike and climbing.

    I've finished my race season now (well actually I have entered another one, the Nationals final round on Saturday this week but otherwise I'm done for the year) so I can focus more on climbing again but if I'm really honest I'm a little scared of going all-in with it. It's caused me a lot of heart ache in the past (and a lot of mental stress) as I find it so hard to do but if I'm really honest with myself it's what I want. It's the challenge that I want. Racing is very hard and the training is nuts but I think it's just me taking the easier option (for me) and skirting around my main goals in climbing.

    So the question is do I commit to climbing or stick with the bike training and do what I'm good at?

    Should we set goals that play to our strengths or ones that pull at our heart strings but that we find very [very!] difficult?

    Mon: 1.5hr bouldering. Really enjoyed this session as it was just what I wanted. More attempts on the comp circuit and flashed a couple more of them. It seems to be that I can either flash them or not do them at all, not sure if that's the grades or me. Some campusing (1 x up/down ladder, 1 x up ladder (biggest rungs)) and pull ups (1 x 9, 1 x 6).
    Tue: 1hr MTB with 4 x 5 min race pace intervals
    Wed: Rest
    Thu: 1 hour bouldering. A good session and did more campusing (2 x ladder on biggest rungs, 2 x quarter(x3) ladder on large rungs).
    Fri: 1.5hr MTB with 4 x 2 min race pace
    Sat: 1hr MTB including 6 mins zone 3 and 3 x 30 seconds race pace opening the legs up for tomorrow. Bouldering in the evening, easy session as I didn't want to overdo it with racing at 10:30am tomorrow.
    Sun: Midlands XC final round. Started really strong and left the pack behind (this never happens so the start training has paid off!). Had a great race, got caught up and passed by 2 other riders and had a sprint finish battle to keep 3rd place. The commentator announced that I had kept 3rd place but at the presentation the other guy got it. Gutted. Great race though and loads of fun in the sun on dry dusty trails.

    Aims For This Week:
    Compete in Mids XC final round TICK! 4/21
    Climbing: 2-3x TICK! 3
    Stick to bike plan TICK!
    Get an indoor V5/6 ticked
    Bouldering comp TICK! 38/41 in category, I think I can improve on this haha!

    STGs:
    Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
    Stick to bike plan
    Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
    Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
    Lead 1x Diff before 18 August
    Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 1/8

    MTGs (before end 2016):
    Complete the Mids XC Series
    Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
    Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
    Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
    High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
    Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
    Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
    Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
    Get competent at skiing (Levels 1-3 done. Complete levels 4-6 at Chill Factore and do at least 6 social sessions)

    LTGs (before end 2017):
    Boulder 7B
    Lead a Severe
    Do a Scottish skiing trip?
    Winter III
    Kili or Elbrus (and ski back down if Elbrus?)

    BHAGs:
    Boulder 8A
    Winter V
    Cenotaph Corner
    Cemetery Gates
    Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
    Some classic Alpine routes
    Jamming Dodger 04 Aug 2016
    In reply to biscuit:

    I'll show up with the cakes a bit sooner next time 😋

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