UKC

Wrist problem

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 mrphilipoldham 31 Jul 2016

I've been having an issue with my right hand wrist on and off for a while, but feel it is really starting to limit my climbing to a degree, especially on 'reachy' climbs - but being 5ft 8 doesn't help!

It feels difficult to explain, but if both arms are stretched straight above my head with fingers (and occasionally palms) on a flat or sloping hold above, then I often feel like I'm unable to put any power through it when moving up on my feet. It feels like something in there is close to completely failing resulting in a fall or locking in position, even though in practise it isn't (or certainly never has). As such, it's putting me off making progress from such positions. Jugs, laybacks, crimps etc all feel fine and there's never been any pain or problems before.

I'm a photographer by profession, and have been wondering if regular use of my camera is connected to it in some way?

Just looking for any initial ideas or advice, or where to go next with it!

Thanks
Post edited at 21:46
 zimpara 31 Jul 2016
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Tendons and muscles are weaker fully extended.
What most people do is hold on barely enough, and then scrabble up with their feet.
In reply to zimpara:

Yes I've done a fair amount of scrabbling, mostly successful!

The problem is, the right seems significantly weaker/closer to failing on me than the left. I understand one may be stronger than the other, but such a disparity doesn't feel right.
 pff 31 Jul 2016
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

I have a similar problem which started late last year, the main indicator was that i couldnt do a proper mantle move on my right hand side. Then i realised my right wrist doesnt bend back as much as the left one and said it to my GP while attending for something unrelated.It has since been xrayed and diagnosed as a fractured scapoid bone which was improperly treated about 15 years ago. Im on a waiting list at the moment but it looks like a plate & pin job.
I wouldnt have lead harder than HVS, but the last 3 years did harder (for me) indoor climbing, which may have led to the issue becoming serious.
In reply to pff:

That sounds pretty similar, thanks! My right will bend back as much as the left but there's the slightest discomfort in doing so, I think I'll get it seen to.

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