UKC

Hello, I am going to end up in sweden near Gothenburg this weekend, and I wondered if anybody knew what the climbing is like around there, which disciplines there are in the area, and what gear I should bring.

Thanks in advance!

In reply to LukeBR:

Sport and trad at Utby just East of the city.

Some sport crag 30 mins south that I forget the name of.

Bohuslan is just over an hour North of the city and is excellent, mostly classic trad but some sport too.

Worth taking a trad rack but you don't need much specialist gear - a full set of cams and wires and usual extenders, even just a single rope.

In reply to LukeBR:

Bohuslan is superb, mainly single pitch crack climbing. I was there in July for a week of great climbing. Here's more info that I was sent when asking a similar question before my trip. http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/bohuslan-climbing-trip-repo... A new guide, in Swedish but with good topos, can be bought in the supermarket in Brodalen.

In reply to LukeBR:

Just got back from a non-climbing trip to Sweden but I did check out some crags. The rock looks amazing - in fact there's so much that could be developed just in the small area I was in.

I used this site to look at topos, etc : https://27crags.com/countries/sweden

In reply to Abowlofpetunias:
I have climbed at Utby and Fjallbo: different parts of the same crag system really. Both very good, probably within the boundary of Gothenburg? Mostly trad. A lot of cracks of all sizes but also some sport. I only did trad stuff. Loved it. It was many years ago (more than 20) and there was an indoor bouldering wall not far from the Ullevi stadium in those days, Fabriken I think . I enjoyed it but unless it has kept up with the times it probably wouldn't seem so good now. However it was good to go and get a chance to chat to locals to get a steer before climbing outdoors. I was at the crag on my own with a shunt but there was a heavy shower and everyone congregated in the same sheltered area. After that I got shown a lot of stuff. It became a memorable day. On Fjallbo Ulf Bjornberg's Route (I think), at about E3 was particularly memorable as were all of the obvious cracks high up on the R. On Utby, Tuborg (E2/3?) and Svare Diedret (E1?) were really good. There is plenty of harder or easier stuff as well.