UKC

Hi. I'm thinking of heading down to Portland soon for some bolt clipping.
I used to climb there regularly and nearly always at Blacknor.
Where would be a good alternative for plenty of quality routes in the F5 - F6b range.

In reply to SC:

Any ideas?

In reply to SC:

'Godnor Far North and Neddyfields

In reply to SC:

Cuttings

In reply to SC:

Battleship & The Veranda is not a bad bet for afternoon/evening sunshine. Wallsend and Coastguard (Tidal) have a small selection of fantastic routes in that grade range as well, the best on the island. Cuttings as mentioned is good as well, a bit more sheltered but does have some very polished routes on the path down so avoid these if you can. Godnor is also very good.

In reply to SC:

+1 veranda, and agree that the cuttings can be stupidly polished, e.g. a 3+ that drew blood and much swearing before reaching the first bolt because it was basically climbing on glass

fallen slab is a lovely low grade climb

In reply to SC:
Cheyne Wears is also good at that grade. Although there are far more desent routes than truly great routes at that grade.

I realise F6b+ is slightly harder than you asked but at battleship, buoys will be buoys is fantastic and in there as one of the best of the 6's on portland

In reply to two_tapirs:


Though, to my mind, Fallen Slab Arete is even better.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I think Blacknor Central is the best for the grades you're talking about - Reptile Smile area, and then stuff like Kit Kat (6b) (fantastic 6b) and Shit Happens, Actually (6a), Monsoon Malabar (6a) etc.

Battleship has some good stuff and seems quieter these days than it used to be - I think a lot of people assume it has all fallen down. Pinch an Inch (6a), Margaret on the Guillotine (6a) I remember being quite good.

I really like the Cuttings but it is an acquired taste and the style takes a bit of getting used to. Grades seem harder there than other parts of Portland. I like Rusty the Red Neck TakesOne for the Team (6a+), European Flavour (6b), Brief Encounter (6b), Another Notch in the Gun (6b) and Consommé (6a+)is classic.

Coastguard Southhas a really lovely set of 6as in the area in a beautiful (tidal) location.

In reply to RockSteady:

There's no way the start of European Flavour is 6b!