In reply to danny269:
This is on the SMC web-site as an addition to the new Highland Outcrops South guide. If there were ever 12 climbs there, they are now overgrown. The following are worth doing only if you are in the area and want somewhere new.
Ordan Shios
(NH 7152 9695) Alt 310m North-West facing
This is a small but conspicuous outcrop south of the A9 road and near the south-west turn-off to Newtonmore. The last guide reported “about a dozen 20m routes have been done, varying from about V.Diff to Severe.” This would seem to be optimistic, as the crag is steep and blocky, sometimes loose and with limited protection, and 10 to 12m is the height. But the crag certainly has been climbed on occasionally for many years, although is only suitable for someone local.
Directions: Park in lay-by 106 on the south side of the main A9 (this is easy when travelling south). When travelling north, this is about 200m beyond the Newtonmore turn-off and just before an overtaking lane (NN 7066 9715).
Approach: Go through a gate at the west end of the lay-by; the crag is visible from here to the east. Head direct over heather moor and bog, 20mins.
Descent: Abseil from trees or walk down at either end.
At the left end of the main crag is a red rib topped by a tree and bounding a heather ramp. A detached pillar lies 10m right of this and can be climbed on either side. Finish by a groove on to steep heather (S 4a on the left, HS 4b on the right). Right of this is a very steep wall leading to a roof. A crack-line here has two pegs and looks very hard. Right of here is a smooth rock ramp, and right of a nose at its top is a groove starting beside honeysuckle and containing two trees (VS 4c). Right of this is a big roofed recess, then another steep wall with a horizontal quartz band at half-height. Right of this the main cliff ends with a short gully which can be used for access to the cliff-top in dry conditions.
