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Rock Shoes For Big Feet?

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 mike25350 11 Aug 2016
Hello all,

I've been climbing for about 3 years now and I'm hoping someone can recommend some 'intermediate' level shoes that will fit my big feet. I normally take a trainer size 12.5 - 13 and although I understand the need for a snug fit, especially on a more technical shoe, I don't want anything too radically tight. I prefer to concentrate on the route rather than crippling toe pain, especially after having lived with ingrowing toe nails for several years a little while back.

They would be used for sport and indoor routes, as my existing shoes would probably be more comfortable for Trad. For comparison, these have been my previous shoes:

La Sportiva - Tarantula (size 47)
Scarpa - Thunder (size 12)
Evolv - Defy VTR (size 13) (ironically the smallest fitting of the three)

Any info would be much appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike
 zimpara 11 Aug 2016
In reply to mike25350:

If you don't want shoes too tight-don't buy tight shoes
3
 Oli Greg 11 Aug 2016
In reply to mike25350:
I'm a 12.5 in 'street' shoes, after trying numerous brands I've settled on five ten anasazi. My feet are quite narrow with long toes and these seem to fit the best. I have size 11 for bouldering, a bit tight and 11.5 for comfy climbing. The heels aren't great for heavy heel hooks but a great elsewhere
Post edited at 19:39
 nufkin 11 Aug 2016
In reply to mike25350:

The Sportiva Katanas might be worth a look - a bit more shaped than the Tarantulas, but still relatively comfy (especially after they've given a bit). See if you can find 46-47 to have a try of
 Anth 12 Aug 2016
In reply to mike25350:

Finding size 12.5 - 13 will be a lot easier than finding 15s (EU50) for very flat, very wide feet (I've also had ingrowing toe nails in the past). I was put onto Ocun shoes the other day and if they go to my size then they'll definitely have your size. Putting size range 47-50 into Bergfreunde.co.uk comes back with over 40 shoes. Can't give any help on fit or comfort given my own sizing predicament but there's plenty of choice out there.
 Jenny C 12 Aug 2016
In reply to mike25350:
Please don't be offended when I say that I find people with large feet much less inclined to fit rockshoes snug than most people (I put it down to rebelling after years of being told that they can just squeeze into the next shoe down). I am NOT suggesting that your shoes should be cripplingly tight, but if the shoes are the correct fit/shape you can fit them surprisingly tight before they become painful.

As you have already found out, the label on the box is just a starting place and sizing varies massively between different manufacturers (and models). Therefore any advice is going to be limited and covered by the usual "go to a decent climbing shop, try on loads and buy in person" not online caveat.

Not at all surprised that the Evolv were the smallest fitting from what you mention, as Evolv are pretty true to street shoe sizing. LaSportiva on the other hand is massively out compared to street shoe sizes and I don't think I have ever sold a (properly fitting) pair without the customer downsizing at least two full UK sizes from what they would wear in street shoes - so I am guessing that your Tarantulas are like canoes.
Post edited at 14:45
In reply to mike25350:

As a retailer it can be pretty hard to get a supply of larger mid range shoes, the notable exceptions we've found have been the ocun ozone plus (plus means wider not better), and we've had a few satisfied larger footed customers with Tenaya Masai that go to a larger size well. Worth noting your La Sportiva Tarantulas will be altogether different to all the other shoes in their range - they're made on a different set of lasts in a different factory and continent to all the other sportiva shoes.

Obviously your best bet is to find somewhere to try them on, although a good quality online retailer will give good service and free exchanges if you have the patience to shop that way and can't find a range to try.

Just had a quick look through what's available in the mid-technical range for us to purchase as a shop - we can get 4 pairs 'off the shelf' from suppliers without having to forward order, the Tenaya Masai, Ocun Ozone Plus, La sportive Finale (up to EU 38) & Edelrid Typhoon which I expect will come up small, all of which we can easily get in 12s & 13s so it may be worth looking for those first. We can generally get hold of 5.10 in a 12 easily across the range but higher than that is hard work.

Have fun searching
Oliver from Three Wise Monkeys
OP mike25350 12 Aug 2016
In reply to Oli Greg:

Cheers, I'll have a look at them. My feet are also fairly narrow for their size - I tend to find most shoes are too broad, as manufacturers expect width to increase proportionately with length, which in our case isn't quite true.
OP mike25350 12 Aug 2016
In reply to nufkin:

Thanks for your reply. A little while ago La Sportiva held a demo day at my local indoor climbing wall and I was actually recommended that model by the rep. Unfortunately they only go up to a size 47. I was barely able to get them on my feet and couldn't put any weight on my toes. A shame as people seem to rate them quite well.
OP mike25350 12 Aug 2016
In reply to Anth:

Thanks for your reply. I've used Bergfreunde before for other climbing gear and have taken a look at the range of shoes. As you said, they actually have a surprisingly decent range of larger sized shoes. The only downside would be returning items back to Germany if I was unlucky in my first selection. Though given that they seem to have the best range, I'll have to take a more thorough look.
OP mike25350 12 Aug 2016
In reply to Jenny C:

Thanks for your reply. No offence taken, its an interesting theory. The Tarantulas were the first climbing shoes I owned, as previously I had been hiring the same model from my local climbing wall in a size 47, which looked to be fairly new. At the time they were painful to climb in so I was keen to buy them in a 48. No longer being new to the sport, I'm now aware of how much (or little) climbing shoes can stretch with use based on their material - therefore if I still had them today, perhaps they would seem too big. My Scarpa Thunder's required a good few weeks of stretching before they became comfortable enough to wear without pain when standing on my toes for any length of time. The Evolv Defy's even more so, to the point where I wasn't convinced I'd made the right choice to keep them. Being synthetic rather than leather like the other pairs I've owned, they aren't as forgiving.

I understand most climbers would agree that rock shoes should be that tight and immediately removed after each route, and I dare say they're correct. Certainly the friends I climb with would agree. But as I said originally, my preference is to be thinking about how I'm placing my toes rather than how painful they are. So finding shoes that are the right 'stretch fit' is my aim. I'm sure I'll find something!
OP mike25350 12 Aug 2016
In reply to 65m moderate millington:

Thanks for your reply and I appreciate you taking the time to check what's available. I'll have a look at the models you suggested. As I mentioned in a previous reply, I had a chat with a La Sportiva rep who told me about the Tarantulas being made separately to other models as you said.

Unfortunately my local shops don't stock much (if any) beyond a size 11 / 47, which was why I was hoping for some recommendations that I could then try to source online. Of course I appreciate why shops don't want to stock the larger sizes, but it does make searching for the right shoes that bit harder! Thanks again for your suggestions.
 Jenny C 13 Aug 2016
In reply to mike25350:

Almost all rockshoes will stretch to some extent so my advice is to always buy slightly on the small side and accept having to take them off for a rest when new. Once broken in I aim that the user can wear them for a couple of hours solid, although if climbing outside taking them off after every route makes sense anyway.

As you say if your toes are so painful that it is holding back your climbing clearly they don't fit.

Are they tight all over or just around the toes? Don't make the mistake of just going bigger to get a more comfortable fit, try instead to find a shoe the same shape as you foot.
OP mike25350 14 Aug 2016
In reply to Jenny C:

That's been the case for my last two pairs, although as expected the leather stretched more than the synthetic pair. Having quite narrow feet, the Scarpa's fit the best out of the three as they were a lace version and therefore easier to tighten up the whole shoe (to give you an idea, the sides were almost touching when laced up). Even with the velcro as tight as possible, the Evolv's still feel a bit wide and the material bunches up.

Not having somewhere I can try on several different shoes in my size, I've had the attitude of settling for anything I could find, just because I could fit my foot in. Although this time as I'm trying to get something a little more technical, I'd like it to be a better fit as well.

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