In reply to UKC Articles:
Good point re stable weather! Tried this last September. Forecast seemed good enough for most of two days so we figured that would be sufficient. There was snow all the way from leaving the Petite Aig Verte normal route, which slowed us down and by about 6pm we were only at the notch after the Carree. The Segogne was pretty plastered but we'd figure it would go (slowly) as we had two axes each so mixed climbing was feasible. Decided to bivvy in the notch (decent ledge just large enough for two lying down) and see how it looks in the morning. Overnight the weather came in with a load of snow (a day earlier than forecast). Woken in the morning by a spindrift avanlanche roaring down the Nant Blanc face. Obviously we bailed down the couloir on the Argentiere side, down climbing with the odd bit of gear, which took a while and involved a couple of dicey sections where there wasn't much snow/ice left. Glad to get back to the lift! At least it was easy from there... One to come back for with better weather and conditions!
The jagged silhouette of this magnificent route can be seen high on the skyline when travelling along the Chamonix valley. It is a long, inspiring and commiting line that for most parties will require at least one night bivouacing under the stars. 