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Cloggy, East Terrace

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Removed User 15 Aug 2016
I was in Snowdonia walking a few days ago, on the way up Snowdon we went and had a look at Cloggy, we had the place to ourselves and this was my first visit. We decided it would be fun to scramble the East Terrace on way to a packed Snowdon summit.

I knew it was grade 1 so thought it would be no problem in big boots and no rope. I was amazed how exposed the first section was, slightly greasy rock, sloping footholds, no positive hands, if I had fell I would have gone 40 feet onto sloping scree. I got up my partner would not commit to the first section so walked around. I could have down climbed if it was a matter of life and death so carried on and we met at the top.
It felt far more dangerous than almost all the climbing I have done. I think its shown as a decent route for climbers.
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 spenser 15 Aug 2016
In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

Most climbers would be carrying a rope and if I remember correctly there is a rock spike directly above that step which you mentioned so you could just abseil from there. I did it a couple of years ago when everything on Cloggy was dry and that step was still mossy, wet and horrible, I think the key is just to get involved in the wetness and accept it!
Unless I'm on my own I'll usually carry a few slings and a rope on grade 1 scrambles to enable a retreat if necessary or to give someone a confidence rope, it may be worth you considering the same depending how confident you are with ropework.
abseil 15 Aug 2016
In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

> ...scramble the East Terrace... I think its shown as a decent route for climbers.

It is indeed an easy descent route for climbers, but that doesn't mean it's safe or easy for scramblers or hikers - beware on Cloggy.
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Removed User 15 Aug 2016
In reply to abseil:

> It is indeed an easy descent route for climbers, but that doesn't mean it's safe or easy for scramblers or hikers - beware on Cloggy.

I've been climbing for 25 years and can get up HVS on a good day, I would not call it easy to descend perhaps as a girl I should just stick to walking or get the train up instead.
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In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

I had a similar experience a few years back on it- I even remember thinking 'its only a grade 1 scramble, we're not taking the rope'.... in the swirling mists and rain, having hauled myself up the section you mention, on greasy sloping holds above the void, unsure what was still to come, is the most scared I've been in 20 years of hillwalking, scrambling and climbing. ...

Still, at least I got the full cloggy experience!

( and i think it gets mod in the logbooks here. ..)
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In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

Eastern Terrace (Grade-2)

yes- graded moderate. overstates it, there are only 2 short sections of hand on rock, but given their unavoidability, and the consequences of a slip, i'd say it warrants at least grade 2.

and there is an interesting photo in the link as well...
In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

> We decided it would be fun to scramble the East Terrace on way to a packed Snowdon summit.

> I knew it was grade 1 so thought it would be no problem in big boots and no rope. I was amazed how exposed the first section was, slightly greasy rock, sloping footholds, no positive hands, if I had fell I would have gone 40 feet onto sloping scree.

Yes that was exactly what I found the one time I did the Eastern Terrace back in 2010. I remember a particularly exposed and very committing step at the top of the first section which was very greasy with nothing for the hands. I ended up avoiding that step by scrambling up a slab to the left at about Grade 3.
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 jon 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

Strange, it didn't used to be a 'Grade 1 Scramble'. It was the 'Descent Route'. And as such everyone simply walked and climbed down it. I blame guidebooks attributing grades... Worth noting though, that it was first climbed in 1798 by the Rev P Bingley and the Rev P Williams - not to be confused with the un-reverend P Williams, of course!

> For a little while we got on without much difficulty, but were soon obliged to have recourse to our hands and knees (...) I had once laid hold of a piece of rock when it loosened from its bed and I should have been precipitated headlong, had I not in a moment snatched hold of a tuft of rushes and saved myself. (...) When we had ascended somewhat more than halfway there seemed no chance of our being able to proceed much further on account of the increasing size of the of the mass of rock above us... The danger of again descending was much too great (...) Mr Williams having a pair of strong shoes with nails in them which would hold their footing better than mine requested to make the first attempt. (...) When he had fixed himself securely to a part of the rock he took off his belt holding it firm by one end gave the other to me: I laid hold and with a little aid from the stones fairly pulled myself up by it. After this we got on pretty well and after about an hour and a quarter from the commencement of our labour we found ourselves upon the brow of this dreadful precipice and in possession of all the plants we expected to find.
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 Ramblin dave 16 Aug 2016
In reply to jon:

> Strange, it didn't used to be a 'Grade 1 Scramble'. It was the 'Descent Route'. And as such everyone simply walked and climbed down it. I blame guidebooks attributing grades...

Walked? Luxury! We 'ad to slide down it on our faces...

Anyway, it's listed as a Grade 1 Scramble in Steve Ashton's Helicopter Rescues In Snowdonia, so he's probably the mimsy young health-and-safety addict to take the issue up with.
 Goucho 16 Aug 2016
In reply to jon:

I noticed on another thread, someone asking if anyone found a rope they left after abing down Western Gully on Dinas Mot.

Climbers abing down Western Gully on the Mot? What on earth is the world coming too?
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 rocksol 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Goucho:

I'm with you and Jon, grading descent routes and moaning when found hard
I also agree with your other comments on Right Unconquerable. Cams have a lot to answer for on beautiful fragile grit. As dinasours we all learnt to climb mostly within our limits until eventually we realised our potential, but seldom fell off ! Today it seems a race Up the grade ladder. Trad. Routes should not be practiced or red pointed unless they are genuine chop routes. I'm also amazed as the disparity of what people can redpoint or on sight trad. I've said it before but E5 and E6 are rarely harder than 6C +, 7A, 7A +
 jon 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Goucho:

I wouldn't let it bother you. It's good to have someone to feel superior to
 rocksol 16 Aug 2016
In reply to jon
I sure he doesn't feel superior but moaning about an over graded descent route Surely they need to hire a guide ?!
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 Bulls Crack 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

Unroped scrambling is often (usually?) more dangerous than climbing
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In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Unroped scrambling is often (usually?) more dangerous than climbing

You just can't make a sweeping generalisation like that. There are so many different factors at play. An experienced solo scrambler is in complete control of what they're doing and can rely on and trust their own judgement. When you're climbing you're only ever as safe as the person on the other end of the rope.
 Bulls Crack 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

Often qualified by usually? Think I can actually! the consequences of falling off most scrambles are dire - so much more to hit + often with some loose stuff and crap footware
 Billg 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

I scrambled up this yesterday on my way to climb The Axe... it was wet and very greasy and I must admit to being worried. I've down climbed this a number of times before and it was a different ball game in the conditions this weekend.
 alan moore 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Removed Userclaire14:

I failed to get up this once as a scrambler.

Walked down it many decades later as a climber and don't remember anything about it....
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