UKC

Eagles Nest Ridge Direct Descent

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 coldfell 16 Aug 2016
Is it easy to find the abseil descent and is there likely to be any tat in place? Trying to avoid the long scramble to the summit which I seem to remember doing in the past, hoping to climb the route tomorrow and grateful for any up to date info.
Dorine
In reply to coldfell:
There is a lower-off somewhere near the finish, and there are lower-offs well to the east above other routes.
Best option take 20 ft of old rope and use that just in case.
 Scott Quinn 17 Aug 2016
In reply to coldfell:

The Abb / belay is actually in the "eagles nest" (one of the best belay seats & views ever) at the top of main pitch - Cracking route! Love how the FA team didn't record the route as they didn't want anyone else to repeat it and die....
 Rog Wilko 17 Aug 2016
In reply to scott quinn:

> Love how the FA team didn't record the route as they didn't want anyone else to repeat it and die....

Yes, you can just see that happening today, can't you?
BTW, was reminded by the thread on here about 50th anniversary of FA of Right Angle - we did Eagles Nest on the 100th anniversary, back in 1992. I believe this to be the earliest route that gets VS (even if only Mild), but I'm sure someone else knows better. Unfortunately, all those old guys only bothered with Lakes climbing at Easter time - I can remember wiping snow off the holds.
 Rick Graham 17 Aug 2016
In reply to coldfell:

Over the last few years, I recall all the ab points on Gable have been easy to find and in good condition, including above ENRD.

However, check the condition yourself and replace or add to the collection as appropriate, remembering they are not installed by a charity.

Fixed ab points are not universally accepted so expect occasional stripping.

Also, some ab point fixers and users are not the brightest kids on the block, as it were, so use circumspectly.

End of lecture
 Rick Graham 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Dave Cumberland:

> There is a lower-off somewhere near the finish, and there are lower-offs well to the east above other routes.

> Best option take 20 ft of old rope and use that just in case.

Include a maillon or two.

Its not a lower off, Dave, unless you have a 90m rope.
OP coldfell 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

Thanks to all for information, will be used very soon - as we ended up at Raven Crag, Borrowdale climbing the excellent Crystal Slab (well the 45m first pitch) and Raven Crag Buttress. Yes using the info Rick I had included a long length of cord and maillon, I like to be prepared as often find the descents harder then the climbs!
Incidentally, we should have taken the above on Crystal Slab with hindsight as the second pitch is an abomination of jungle warfare

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