UKC

Off to Skye in September for the first time in years. As per usual for my trips to Scotland I'm expecting it to piss down on at least half the days. Rather than being cooped up in the pub, what routes are okay in the wet? Presumably those that avoid basalt like the plague? Or is it better to head to Torridon and see what it's like there, or Reiff.

Have Spar Cave on the list of things to go and do in case of grimness, but what else is worth doing?

Climb about VS (if very well protected) at a max at the moment but for my sanity would prefer easier, and can get up 6bs fine if I end up doing sport. Partners are similar except one of them who is more of a 7a/b person.

In reply to Kid Spatula:
Often dry at places like Staffin when the Cuillin are bad, so Kilt Rock could be an option but not sure if there are any routes there at your grade. If you've not been before a walk in the Quirang is worthwhile, in some ways better with a bit of mist to add "ambiance".

In reply to Kid Spatula:

If it's raining on Skye then there's a good chance that Torridon or a bit further north will be dry. Reiff tends to get quite good weather, and although this summer up there hasn't been as good as many, it's still been relatively dry.

Creag nan Cadhag at the north end of Loch Maree is good, although there's not a huge amount under 6b (although the right hand end of the sport crag has got some pretty recent boltings in the 5's). You've also got Kuhjo Crag down near Poolewe although I suspect midges may be a bit of a nightmare there just now. That's another crag that's got some more recent easy boltings over the routes noted in the UKC log/SMC book. Others in the area like Am Fasgadh are all 7a and above.

The mountain routes might not be too dry as most are north facing but even then you'll definitely find stuff to climb.

In reply to Kid Spatula:

Look for a climb called Mummy's Church (VD). It only goes at VD but I'm sure it would be enhanced by wet weather.

I failed to find it when I went looking. I may have been fortunate.

In reply to davidbeynon:

That looks awesome! Everywhere should have a backup Lockwoods Chimney!

In reply to Kid Spatula:

The Sandstone cliffs at Elgol are good but need an abseil in. There is one great VS there though, who's name escapes me but obvious from the guidebook.

Or one of the many ridge scrambles and accept a soaking.

In reply to Kid Spatula:

I went climbing at Neist on Skye last year which was bone dry when the Cuillin was p***ing down as usual.

Just a short drive over the island and I only did short HS/VS routes. Lots to go at.

In reply to GrahamD:

Also an option of course. Just a shame my Scarpa Jorasses appear to be terrible on wet rock felt like I was ice skating on my way up Tryfan a couple of weeks ago. Approach shoes and waterproof socks may be the only option.

In reply to Kid Spatula:

Waterpipe Gully in the rain is a belting adventurous day out so long as you don't mind wetness. You'd need one of the party to be happy at HVS at least, though, I wouldn't like to lead the pitches on that thing if VS was my top grade.

Maybe you could smooth talk someone into tagging along, there's no worry about numbers, it'd be fine to do it on a rope of twenty

In reply to JDal:

Isn't waterpipe gully a Mod?

In reply to davidbeynon:



I really enjoyed Mummy's Church. Requires head torches.

In reply to Thugitty Jugitty:

It looks like my cup of tea as I have a soft spot for thrutchy through routes. Wandering backwards and forwards over the hillside in terrible visibility and failing to find the crag was not my finest hour though!

In reply to Kid Spatula:

As Graham has mentioned you could find dry climbing 20 minutes walk from Elgol at Suidhe Biorach. I can recommend the Severe called Fertility Right and others rave about the VS Jamie Jampot. The craglets down on the beach a bit further along can also provide some good fun.

In reply to Ann S:

Hairy Mary is also excellent,m the best we did there - it gets HVS 4b in the guide, but it's really no more than VS 4b (and would get HS 4b in the NY Moors as it's steep but well protected).

But my favourite wet weather cragging is at Neist.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Had a good look at HM on the way up our severe- Defo on the list for next years visit.

In reply to JDal:


This is the sort of recommendation which could easily kill someone.

In reply to Jamie B:


Please expand, we did it on a dreich mizzly day. Quite good fun really, wet but only dangerous because it was early in the season and there was big loose stuff around. It's escapable & retreatable.

In reply to JDal:

This may have shaped my opinion somewhat:

http://www.mcofs.org.uk/mag_sm26_page6.asp

In reply to Kid Spatula:

We went to the Talisker distillery and took the tour. I seem to remember the cask strength stuff still.

In reply to Kid Spatula:

Do you need to climb when every glorious inch of the Cuillin ridge scramble goes in the wet? Just have some damp days on the hill, test your nav and savour the sense of isolation on the ridge with no perspective.

If you must climb, then Trotternish peninsular is the driest place on the island and MUCH drier than pretty much everywhere else. However, the sea cliffs really only get going at HVS although you could go bouldering on Carn Liath north of the Storr. A most beautiful day's sport.

Neist is best at VS and can definitely be dry when the hills are wet. Financial Sector is probably the best place to start although Sonnemara just left of the steps (looking down) has some good routes at gritstone HS (actually graded VS). Nice soft touch ticks there, while the aforementioned Financial is Sector is bang on the grade.

Don't forget the Forcan ridge just east of Skye. Often much drier there too and a wonderful hill day with some excitement.

In reply to JDal:

Pause - for one moment - and think why it is called Waterpipe Gully... Think heavy rain. Drainage. Funnel. I've seen water hosing down it, along with debris, in some serious downpours so I would council caution if trying this in very wet conditions.

In reply to JDal:

>we did it on a dreich mizzly day.

Hardly grim Skye weather... Jamie B's rebuke is well justified

In reply to BnB:

Forcan ridge looks great and to my shame I thought it was much further away!

I think we may be pushing it doing the ridge in cloud and rain having never done any of it before. But bits of it are an option certainly.

In reply to Kid Spatula:

We did easy stuff at Suishnish (long walk in but quite flat and easy to follow, plus go past interesting clearance village) and Neist Point (Sonomara area is not tidal) when the forecast was bad in late June. Occasionally drizzle would blow over us, but it was fine.

In reply to Kid Spatula:



I did mean just a section of the ridge. The northern third is only rarely basalt.

The classic vdiff Window Buttress in Coire na Bannachdich goes in the wet (except the easily avoidable by walking final crux, which hardly goes in dry conditions) and you can finish the day atop the Inn Pinn

In reply to Kid Spatula:
There are a few easy variations on this buttress:
Window Buttress Original Route (VD)

Have been up there in the wet twice and the routes we did were scrambly Diff/V diff type things. All on gabbro from memory.

The off is pretty straightforward down a gully behind.

Bruce

In reply to Kid Spatula:


This is well worth doing - take a torch and check the tides! If you fancy some 'proper' caving then there are quite a few limestone caves on Skye http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/654367 I managed to find and explore several including one which exited almost onto the beach via a waterfall.

In reply to Kid Spatula:

While no fan of climbing in the rain, I've never had a dry day on Skye. But did Window buttress, Cioch west, crack of Doom and crack of double doom on foul, wet days, and they weren't that bad because the rock is so rough. I was probably climbing about VS at the time. It's always worth the effort to get out and you can brag about it like an old fart for evermore...

In reply to Kid Spatula:

Do yourself a favour and give Mummy's Church a miss. We walked in in the sopping wet to be confronted by the biggest pile of ming we'd ever see - and promptly walked back out again.
You'd be far better off going for a walk.

I've also done Window Buttress In torrential rain and that was fine.

In reply to Jamie B:


better to tell it how it is than ukc logbook sandbagging the grade. it goes at VS in my 1982 guide..