UKC

My rab latok alpine has finally come the end of its life after 9years. So I have been searching around for a new jacket. I have got back into winter climbing over the last few years after along time out so only grade I/II at the moment I don't want to spend the earth but a good solid jacket . So event, gore tex, pertex, dry Q?
Tempted by ME tupilak, patagonia refugitve, MH quasar? Any feedback on them or other options would be great

In reply to Richardhobbs:

The Arcteryx Alpha SV is 'The Daddy' for winter mountaineering - a Goretex Pro suit of armour.
Yes - the full RRP is eye-watering(!)...but there's a new version just been released - so you may very well be able to find the older model heavily discounted.

In reply to 99ster:

Yes I have seen the price !!!!!! But if there is a newer version there may be a bargain Cheers

In reply to Richardhobbs:

Mhw Quasar isn't overly bombproof.

Ever considered the Millet jackets such as the K Pro or K Expert?

Or the Haglofs Roc Hard or Haglofs Spitz?

Hope that helps.

LDM

In reply to LakeDistrictMountaineer:


Also Millet Trilogy GTX, if still available. While I luster for Alpha SV (or even AR), I settled for the Millet and have been rather pleased.

In reply to Richardhobbs:

I have a Quasar and a Tupilak, the quasar is very lightweight and definitely not up to Scottish winter demands. Also worth noting that the fit of the quasar is definitely on the small side.

DryQ is just rebranded eVent, so they're both equally shit. Pertex Shield is good for its intended purpose - lightweight and breathable - but would be crappy for winter use. Go for something Gore Tex, preferably Pro Shell for hard winter abuse - the Tupilak is ideal for this.

In reply to Richardhobbs:

was in glenmore lodge last winter for a week and they were using NF stuff

said its the best gore tex stuff they have used and a number of the guides were swearing until something better comes along they will continue to use it

suppose a lot depends in the fit...... the ar'tryx is a bit roomier and didnt fit me as nicely so i plummed for NF zero gully gtex pro and its like another layer of skin

cant wait for cold temps snow and ice........

In reply to alexm198:

tupilak pants rock........

In reply to LakeDistrictMountaineer:

Thanks good to know on the mountain hardwear

In reply to alexm198:

Thanks didn't now dry q was the new e vent

In reply to wannabeagoat:

Not looked at ND will check it out

In reply to Richardhobbs:

My haglofs roc high jacket (replacement for Spitz 2) has been a bit rubbish, zip leaks like a sieve so I wouldn't recommend them.

In reply to 99ster:

For what it's worth, I have one of these and it's as bomber as they come. Probably had around 200+ days use in the mountain and is only slightly frayed in one or two pieces. Nothing I've ever used comes close to shutting out rain/wind/crap weather like this does. It's comparatively light too. Ridiculously expensive though.

In reply to Richardhobbs:


Paramo

In reply to rif:

Lol, you beat me to it.
Or Montane, I find it fits better and is more nicely tailored, unless you can afford the new fancy range of Paramo cut for the more athletic fit. Can't remember the name of it. Absurd pricey too. But you seem to be cool with that.

In reply to Richardhobbs:
Get a Ventile. Forget this modern membrane puke!

In reply to Dave the Rave:


I'd forgotten about Ventile. Took a look and some really good lightweight really beTheable and weatherproof jackets out there now.

In reply to Lion Bakes:


Yep. And you don't have to worry about 'the membrane' or its 'durability!.

In reply to Richardhobbs:


It isn't. It's completely different. Dry Q Elite can be fab but it depends on the face fabric etc.

In reply to Dave the Rave:

I have the new non sack of spuds look paramo. the price is comparable with most goretex and of course cheaper than arcteryx or patagonia...

I'm pretty pleased with mine nice long arms everything works and 2 years in little sign of wear.

In reply to alexm198:

I like the look of the ME

In reply to Richardhobbs:
I have the latest version of the ME Tuplilak and it's great for winter stuff.
I had the Tupilak 2 and had it for a about 4 years and then the zip broke and contacted ME to see if they could fix the zip for me but they said send it back and we'll have a look.
Ellis Brigham(as I bought it from them)sent it back and ME replaced it with the newest version 80 denier 2016 model as it had also delaminated
I loved the old jacket and was a bit gutted as I liked the pocket set up compared to the new one but only when I started using the Jacket in the Mountains, that I found that the pockets were even better than my last jacket and the changes in the jacket really stood out especially the fit
The new gore tex pro is a lot more breathable than the older goretex proshell that I had in my old jacket.
I have worn ME gear for years now and find it suits me and I have only ever had one problem which was resolved from ME Straight away.

In reply to Richardhobbs:

I've always used predominantly ME kit over the years, but last year I bit on the bullet and got the Arcteryx Alpha SV, and it really is the dogs danglies. Best I've ever had - mind you, at the price it should be.

However, it looks like it's going to last a long time, so might turn out to be a sensible investment in the long term.

In reply to andyd1970:

Thanks I think it's looking the best option on price as aryterex is out there on price !!!!

In reply to Goucho:

The aryterex is outstanding but out of my price range so I think ME cheers

In reply to Richardhobbs: have a look at the Mammut Nordwand Jacket. It's the same price as the Alpha SV, but (for me) a better fit and a lot better hood. You can usually find them well discounted. I've been using them since the first generation (jacket & trousers) and have been impressed with durability and performance.

Col.

In reply to Richardhobbs:

Thanks for all the feedback and advice hope to see you all in Scotland this winter . Look for the bloke in a new jacket.

In reply to Richardhobbs:

Tulipak all day long! Phenomenal bit of kit!

In reply to Richardhobbs:

Patagonia, great kit and great company.