UKC

Has anyone climbed the Gaiser Lehmann route on the NW pillar of Piz Cengalo in the Bregaglia this season. I'm looking for any beta, particularly as there appears to be evidence of recent stone fall on the glacier at the start of the route.

In reply to IFA1:

There was a warning up at the sasc fura hut when I were there about two weeks ago. My understanding is that there is a huge amount of rock ready to go to on the n. face and they are encouraging folks to avoid. I think the path between the sasc fura and sciora hut was damaged in the last rockfall and cannot be used now too.

In reply to riseabove0835:
Thanks. I'm in Bregaglia at the moment and have seen the signs about the massive rock fall off the NE face of Cengalo in 2011 but was wandering if anyone had done the NW Pillar which seems to be unaffected. Approaching from the Sciora Hut is probably too difficult/dangerous due to all the debris from the 2011 fall but coming from Sasc Fura and descending the Colle Vial puts you on the Cengalo glacier without going below the NE face. If anyone has done/attempted this recently I really appreciate the info.

In reply to IFA1:
Hi,
I have done the NW pillar maybe about 8 years ago, but have also had (probably ten years ago) a near death experience walking up to do the Buegeleisen route up there when huge amounts of rock fell off said northern aspect. Fortunately we managed to dive behind a rock, but it is not an experience I would care to repeat! The whole area is now an exclusion zone and the path between the huts is closed. We wanted to do the B£geleisen again last year (as I had thought the rockfall was more due to some very high temperatures when we were there about 10 years ago), but we were informed that there is now still - after the big 2011 rockfall again - a lot of unstable rock up there waiting to fall down, so I would say it's probably worth avoiding!! I don't think it's the debris that's on the path that's to worry about, more the potential of new debris coming from above...
Heike