UKC

Tophet wall

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 riff156 21 Aug 2016
Hi
Am considering doing Tophet wall in the lakes but someone said the belay at the top of first pitch is pretty suspect, can anyone shed some light on it for me, is it worth stringing first two pitches together?
Cheers.
 Mountain Llama 21 Aug 2016
In reply to riff156:

can't comment on the belay but IIRC we strung the 1st two pitches together with no issue.

You could also tick off Napes Needle while your in the area?

HTH Davey
 jimjimjim 21 Aug 2016
In reply to riff156:

It's a few years since I did it but the belay was fine then. I do remember a bit of a run out after the stance into pitch two though which can be unnerving if that bothers you but it's on good holds and the gear does come.
 Jackwd 21 Aug 2016
In reply to riff156:
The start of the next pitch is a little run out but easyish climbing if you're comfortable at the grade. The belay itself is a little loose but should be fine. Climbed it a month or so ago.
Post edited at 10:56
In reply to riff156:

Belays are OK but maybe simpler to combine two pitches to belay at the start of the traverse. The route is potentially serious from lack of gear in places (P2) and if wet so ensure belays are fit for purpose.
 mcdougal 21 Aug 2016
In reply to riff156:

I wasn't thrilled with the first belay but seem to remember that you can brace yourself into a reasonable stance. See how you're feeling and consider running the first two pitches together.
OP riff156 21 Aug 2016
In reply to riff156:

Thanks to all replies
 birdie num num 21 Aug 2016
In reply to riff156:
The belay is airy, rather than suspect. Exposed but with adequate gear.
The second pitch is a rising traverse, so no; it's not worth stringing the first two pitches together.
Tophet Wall finds a weakness amongst rather serious ground. Be sure of your route finding.
Ps. If I recall correctly, the first pitch was almost a rope length anyway
Post edited at 23:10
In reply to birdie num num:

I think there's some confusion here.

The guidebook has the route as more pitches than it is often done as. The first two guidebook pitches are usually combined as they go pretty much straight up for a ropelength, as are the third and fourth pitches as they go rightwards for a similar distance. Best we're all clear about just what's being said and what was meant.

T.
 Quickdrawmgraw 22 Aug 2016
In reply to riff156:

Its a good route. Rope up and scramble over to pinnacle ridge next , summit great gable that way !

I think the belay block was a bit wobbly but you get a good bracing position !
 Andysomething 22 Aug 2016
In reply to riff156:
We were there a few weeks back (same day as Jackwd)

I belayed on that little block just over 20 metres up. I was happy with sling and wire combination on the block and the solid braced stance just below it.

My partner was unhappy with making the bold moves up the short wall at the start of P2, and I didn't fancy taking a factor two fall there (or anywhere!) - so we swapped leads which was pretty awkward at the time, lots of faff re-stacking the ropes, this wouldn't have been an issue if I'd carried on myself past the belay to the top of P2. Later on we watched another pair string the two pitches together (double ropes) and it seemed to work really well, much slicker and arguably safer. The belay at the top of P2 is bombproof.

If you think you need to be in sight of your second as they start P1 then belay on P1, top of P2 is well out of sight.

It's a brilliant route get on it!
Post edited at 09:05
 1poundSOCKS 22 Aug 2016
In reply to Andysomething:

> Later on we watched another pair string the two pitches together (double ropes) and it seemed to work really well, much slicker and arguably safer. The belay at the top of P2 is bombproof.

Sounds like the best idea to me. I thought the wobbly belay was okay to bring my second up, but wasn't happy with it to hold a ff2. The climbing above the belay is fairly easy, but it's a bit delicate.

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