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Non-tidal novice friendly climbing in South Wales?

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 Hooo 22 Aug 2016
Can anyone help with some suggestions please?
I'm taking a few novices out on Saturday, somewhere an hour or so from Llandeilo. Normally we'd go to Three Cliffs, but high tide is at 14:30 this Saturday, which messes up the day a bit.
A beach that isn't so tidal would be nice, if possible. Dinas Rock would be OK, but I get the impression the one beginners slab is overrun by groups. Is it still like that?
I've not climbed at Pembroke yet, is there a crag there that would fit the bill?
 Mark Morris 22 Aug 2016
In reply to Hooo:

Don't think Dinas Rock ever gets really busy, particularly a Saturday as most groups would be on changeover? How many beginners are you taking, as your profile suggests you're climbing quite well. What about Saddle Head for a nice introduction to Pembroke at easier grades you will be comfortable with? Access shouldn't be a problem unless there is an major military exercise ongoing.

Gower non tidal is more difficult, if you want an easy venue there's boiler slab near Port Eynon.

Mark
OP Hooo 22 Aug 2016
In reply to Mark Morris:

Thanks, I might take another look at Dinas Rock. I checked the entry on here and it appears to be virtually all bolted now. How things change, I'd never heard of sport climbing last time I went there (about 35 years ago...). I don't suppose it makes any difference if we're only top roping, but I would like to get a couple of (trad) leads in if I can.
Is Boiler slab non-tidal? looks like it would do the job.
Saddle Head looks good, but a bit of a trek (most of Pembroke past Tenby is probably a bit far to be honest), and it's ab-in, which I'm wary taking novices on.
I'll have three to five adults (all family) and my 9 year old daughter with me. Most of them have top-roped with me before, but I would still treat them as novices.
 Anoetic 22 Aug 2016
In reply to Hooo:

Hi

Take a look at the South Wales climbing wiki to give you a few more ideas. Non tidal could push you towards South Wales sandstone.
 The Ivanator 22 Aug 2016
In reply to Hooo:

Boiler Slab is totally non tidal and would be ideal for your needs, the walk in is beautiful too.
OP Hooo 23 Aug 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:
Looks like I'll be giving Boiler Slab a go. Thanks for the tips everyone.
 Jimbob11 24 Aug 2016
In reply to Hooo:
What Ivan said. It'll be the perfect crag. Dinas rock would be a tad hard for novices and the easy fave that you can top rope will me mental with groups on gorge/climb sessions.



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