UKC

Hello.

I've been venturing outdoors more recently and a lot of the time spent hanging about placing or retrieving gear can results in my feet going numb if I have an awkward stance or have to put too much pressure on the ball of my foot or toes (I suffer from a kind pressure palsy, so if I pinch a nerve it can result in a numbness for a few weeks).

Ideally there must be a stiff non-aggressive shoe out there that can help spread and support my weight ... any suggestions of where to start? Preferably ones with thick soles?

Maybe what I'm looking for is counter intuitive to what a climbing shoe should be like, but I don't really intent to climb more than VS, ever, so maybe an approach shoe like the Scarpa Gecko might work for easier climbs? I'm currently using 5 year old Durangos which are probably well past their best!

Thanks very much.

In reply to gwared:

the scarpa techno x are both stiff and quite technical. They don't soften up too much either.

In reply to gwared:

La Sportiva TC Pro aren't cheap, and you'll struggle to find a shop to try them on. But they are good.

In reply to gwared:

I do not have any labels for you but may have a solution. I don't know if you have ever tried the climbing shoes from the 80's, they were really stiff compared to todays shoes or rubber. Maybe your answer is in some really old shoes from ebay. It was also quite normal for them to come over the ankle as well in a kind of basket ball type fashion. This also could help manage the weight better and take some of the stress off the front end of your foot.
Worth a thought.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=picture+of+old+climbing+shoes&rlz=1C1...

In reply to gwared:

If you are happy with Red Chili shoes then you could try the Sausalitos, I had a pair for a while and they were substantially stiffer than other shoes I've had.

Saying this, it may just be a case of conditioning and strengthening your feet and you'll get used to it.

In reply to gwared:

Wearing Boreal Blades feels like frontpointing compared to wearing any of their other technical shoes. Well worth trying if you can find some. I can also attest to the fact that they're virtually as stiff at end of life as they were out of the box.

In reply to gwared:
i was actually thinking of some other Boreal shoes that i thought might be what you need. But what strikes is , maybe even more than is normal, you need to find something that is the right shape so you're feed aren't getting crushed.

Something like Boreal joker? But absolutely look at and try on a lot os shoes. You will find something that works .

In reply to gwared:

Have a look at Evolv Astromans..

In reply to Dominicandave:

The Boreal Ballet (classic '80s shoe, Johnny Dawes did Indian Face in them IIRC) are still being made -- they're board-lasted so super-stiff.

You can order them online from Bergfreunde or some other sites, but I've also seen them at Rock On at Mile End.

The Astroman (mentioned in another comment) is one of the rare board-lasted modern shoes.

I've seen mention of the Anasazi Guide as a good stiff "all day comfort on moderate trad" type shoe.

In reply to gwared:

5.10 anasazi guides. Really stiff, not ageessivem very comfortable and if you search around can be found at a reasonable price. They come very small for the size so best to try before you buy.

In reply to gwared:

The Five Ten Verdons are super stiff. They have a thermoplastic insole and have a narrow toe profile and are designed to stand in pockets but are fairly versatile, comfortable and give excellent support.

The new Anasazi Whites will have a normal toe profile but the same insole but aren't on sale yet.

In reply to Dominicandave:

That's a good shout, will definitely keep an eye out on ebay and see if anything comes up in the right size. The evolv astromans seem like an modern version of this idea too.

---

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, it's a really good starting point. I'll hopefully get to try some of them on in a store before going online... the techno x, verdons and anasazi guides seem to be easy to find.

Cheers! (any other suggestions are welcome)

In reply to wbo:

Boreal Joker loose their rather average stiffness too quickly IMO.

In reply to gwared:

those 5:10 shoes all have quite aggressive heels, at the grades you and me are climbing I think you'll find the techno X more than technical enough but much more comfortable.

In reply to CurlyStevo:


Also, the rubber has similar frictional properties as warm butter.

In reply to Dominicandave:

I had a pair of the ankle hight violet an yellow La Sportivas. Supposedly that had a rubber sole, felt more like wooden clogs! Ideal for Frankenjura limestone pockets, though.

CB

In reply to gwared:

What size are you?
I have a pair of Techno X that are a bit too stiff for my liking.
44.
Stink free, good edge. Only about 10-12 climbing days done in them.
£55??

Bruce

In reply to gethin_allen:

Yeah I've never liked the bog standard boreal rubber

In reply to gethin_allen:


That's a bit unkind. Warm butter is quite grippy in comparison.

Andy F

In reply to Hay:

Thanks Bruce, I'll try and find a place to try them on first. Give you a shout if they are what I'm after!

In reply to gwared:
I think of my Scarpa VS Instincts (the velcro ones) as quite stiff, but I have very little basis for comparison (not buying leather shoes limits the options somewhat). Would other people think of this as a stiff shoe, or is it just me? (previous shoes were Evolv Bandit SC, also supposed to be reasonable at edging)
In both cases I sized for all-day comfort and never really had to take them off.

In reply to ukb shark:



Whoa! There are new Anasazi Whites coming out? This has just made my year. Haven't found anything that has come close and have been wearing my remaining pair sporadically for nearly 2 years as I can't say goodbye!

In reply to gwared:

This is a recurring question on UKC, and as usual I recommend Boreal Ballet Gold, about the stiffest and most traditional design that you can still get. I bought mine in Colorado but they are available from Bergfreunde and, I believe, Mile End. I stand a round (a lot!) when leading so they are a good idea for me. Stiffer still were Kamet Joshua Tree shoes but they are no longer made (I have an old pair I bring out for slate.)

For the ultimate in comfort, do what good climbers did in the 1960s up to VS, wear big rigid mountain boots, but that does require a lot of technique!

In reply to Rob Davies:

I was brought up (in the 1960s) with the prevailing ethic that you had to wear big mountain boots up to (and often including) VS - a big grade in those days. Only then were you allowed 'magic boots', i.e. what we'd now call rock shoes.

I agree they did require a lot of technique but... as I'm sure you remember, it was a rather different technique, all edging and no smearing. And smearing has always seemed one of the delights of climbing.

Boots on limestone? Grim. Grit? Dire. Sandstone? Bad idea.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

I once held the rope for someone who was in training for the Alps and wanted to lead The Unprintable in double mountain boots. He got up it, but I seem to remember that knees got used quite a bit as he had these big, heavy, rigid impediments attached to the ends of his legs...

In reply to thermal_t:

Yep. You have taste - I'm down to my last three pairs

Quizzed Steve Mac about the new model this morning and it's all good news:

youtube.com/watch?v=otXgwqO7l78&