UKC

Mittellegi Ridge

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LakeDistrictMountaineer 26 Aug 2016
Who's done it and how did you find it?

It's been on my ticklist a while and really planning on it for next year.

Cheers.

Ldm
 wercat 26 Aug 2016
In reply to LakeDistrictMountaineer:

Fantastic experience (1990) but marred by starting the day after we arrived so totally unacclimatised, had only led the Moench before so seemed a big experience. Will never forget it, but we were a bit slow later in the day. Would love to do it after proper acclimatising. In those days the descent was by the W Flank, probably worse than the ridge and we were caught in a thunderstorm bivvy.
LakeDistrictMountaineer 26 Aug 2016
In reply to wercat:

It looks amazing. What level were you climbing at at the time?

Was it quite bare of snow on the lower and middle sections?
graham F 27 Aug 2016
In reply to LakeDistrictMountaineer:

Did it yesterday - awesome. Impressively exposed. Although there are lots of fixed ropes there's still some proper climbing to be done (definitely best when dry as lots of the climbing is on slopey limestone) and the ropes are quite strenuous. Descent by the South ridge is a better option in summer, and takes about as long as the ascent. There are a few abseils, and a bit of a climb back up to the South Eigerjoch. I'll get some pictures on my website soon.
graham F 27 Aug 2016
In reply to graham F:

Pics on the website now.
http://www.frostguiding.co.uk/blog/646
 wercat 27 Aug 2016
In reply to LakeDistrictMountaineer:
probably around S/HS in summer but occasionally seconding a little harder, winter IIIish. I'd soloed up to Toubkhal by the normal route in the Atlas and done the WSW ridge of Toubkal with an experienced partner a year or so before and done a lot of solo scrambling and winter walking


I seem to remember 1990 was a hot year and even the summit was bare in places. So lots of loose rock on the W Flank. IIRC that was the year Oetzi was found due to glaciers diminishing
Post edited at 14:51
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