UKC

Morning FitClubbers!

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=648281

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week's posters:
Dandan - Looking forward to the new training plan
Curious Yellow - ^ days on I'd say you could do with a couple of rest days!
Emily - Well done on the 6a flash, even better for pulling back from the brink of terror, just goes to show it can be controllable.
Si dH - 3rd session realistic redpoint attempts is awesome! I'm guessing this weekend didnt bring you the ideal connies you were after?
Hms - Congrats on Remembrance, amazing job!
Biscuit - Has the jaded feeling passed? Managed to find any more motivation to climb?
AJM - All the psyche inducing chat in the world can't overcome dodgy conditions though, it didn't sound like an ideal day weather wise, don't beat yourself up too much!
Bobling - Well done on the press-ups, you achieved that quickly!
SteveM - Have you come up with a plan for your 'feel' goals?
Ally Smith - I can't begrudge Team GB my lost sleep, what a fantastic result. Have you been back to Devil's Gorge this week?
Hokkyokusei - Spotted your MTG, what does the Yorkshireman consist of?
Tyler - I don't want to condone it entirely but I think there is something to be said for ignoring injuries, or at least not worrying over them, your body is much better at fixing these things than we give it credit for.
Nick Russell - Me give running a try?! Madness. Nice looking week, well done on All Hands
JayK - How's the training plan coming along? Are you making it yourself?
Leeboy1985 - 12 hour days aren't really a good partner to decent training, it seems like a valid excuse to me.
Mattrm - Hope the antibiotics are busy doing their thing...
D1 - You never need an excuse to eat biscuits! That's practically a mantra of a friend of mine and he's mega strong!
Heelhookofglory - There's no mud around my way to practice trail skills, is it wetter where you are?
EDIT:
Just Tintin - A famous Olympian was asked how he won gold and he replied 'I worked on my weaknesses'. It's never fun but it's got to be done!

In reply to Dandan:


Haha, cheers Dan, no it didn't - the crux pocket was seeping badly and needed tissue paper shoved in the back to keep it dry between attempts - but I crushed it anyway!!

Will post properly later.

In reply to Si dH:

Good skills Si!

In reply to Dandan:


There is some in the woods, yes. You can always find the squelchy stuff in good ol' Blightly.

In reply to Si dH:
Nice one Si!

In reply to Si dH:
Thanks all.

2016 goals:

- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night

- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B) (done)
- moffatrocity (f7B+) (done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

- Arch Enemies (7c+) (done)
- The Free Monster (8a) (done YYFY!)

M: shoulder rehab
T: Went to the Churnet after work for a re-aquaintance with the Mentalist. Really hot, didn't make any new progress but repeated some of the harder moves I'd done before. Needs better conditions.
W: half a core session and a one arm max hang session (as per previous weeks.) Also did a couple of 2 armed hangs on the 18mm edge at the end and was surprised to find I could hold about 4 kg more than when I was doing those regularly earlier in the year. Haven't really felt myself getting much stronger in the one arm exercises but there are obviously some gains.
T: Core work in the morning.
F: Rest
S: 4th session on Free Monster. 1st go dogged up to put the clips in and dry the pocket entering the crux, which was seeping badly. Second go it had wetted out again so came down. Took some tissue paper back up with me and managed to use that to stop the seepage from the back. Had a couple more goes falling in and then exiting the crux, then succeeded on my 5th go:
vimeo.com/180466403
Did some shoulder rehab when I got home, then went out to celebrate. Major food splurge and made myself feel ill with 3 strongish pints...
S: Rest day but have walked 10-11 miles.

Injury catalogue: shoulder seems bad today, not sure if it's due to pulling hard, rucksack carrying, sleeping funny on it or all three. No other tweaks felt though which is good.

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 2lb.

Route aims now done for the year, well chuffed with this. Got a 4 day stag do in Prague in a fortnight so I'm going to relax a bit until then, and try to recover some alcohol tolerance. (I owe a couple of people some belaying sessions as well!) When I get back I'll hit the bouldering. Lots of strength training required if I'm going to do those 7Cs.

Si

In reply to Si dH:

Congrats Si

In reply to Dandan:

I'm gonna drop back in for a while if you don't mind Dan - finally at a point with the physio were I feel like I'm improving, getting stronger and everything is making sense. It'd be good to get back into keeping some sort of training diary. it keeps me a bit more focused.

STG - Easy bouldering once a week indoors and start fingerboarding..
MTG - Spain for a couple of months, hopefully by xmas. Bouldering mostly.
LTG 7A

Mon - AM 1hr stretches and antags PM 1hrs stretches and antags. Changed up from yellow band to green for rotator cuff. Woke up feeling really good from an easy boulding session in Derby, no aches at all in the back or shoulders.

Tue - AM 1hr stretches and antags PM 1hr stretches and antags.

Wed - AM 1hr stretches and antags PM 1hr stretches and antags

Thu - Rest day. Felt a bit sore around the thoracic area due to pasting wallpaper for a couple of days.

Fri - AM 1hr stretches and antags PM 1hr stretches and antags

Sat - PM 40min Road cycle (on mtb) 12.5k . 2hr stretches and antags Changed up to red band for RC

Sun - AM 35min Road cycle (on roady) 12k PM 2hr stretches and antags

A great week. Taking the cycling easy, as did a 23 miler the other week and it played havoc with the spine but the physio wants my knees stronger and there's obviously no impact when cycling. The roady hurts the back more than the mtb it would seem but I've just discovered Strava segments!

Goal? To get all the muscles between the shoulder blades active. Turns out I've not used them for years and the brain forgot how to. Basically down to how I use a paint roller at work... we are what we do. Took the rest day on Thursday as I'd stepped a lot from what the physio had said to do and had DOMS, which wasn't on the agenda. It goes a long way to explaining why I could do two mono pullups but only three in total on a bar or jugs (and that felt desperately hard) and hanging one armed was impossible with the left arm, as I was using the front of my shoulders and my ridiculously strong lower back. I was starting to have issues with the left shoulder during the trip last winter, probably down to not doing any antag work whatsoever and this lack of ability to use some of my muscles. So rolling the van in April and getting whiplash has actually done me a favour and shown up all the underlying issues.

The trip last winter was a bit of a disaster all round to be honest but the psyche to get back out there is building again, so need to keep focused.

In reply to mrchewy:

Good effort doing 4 x 2 hours of rehab stuff, that's impressive.
Can compare notes on shoulder injuries at some point...I had similar problems at the turn of the year.

In reply to Si dH:

I've been setting the alarm for 5.14am in the week and getting in the garage for 5.30. It's just not doable otherwise but if I'm honest, doing the rehab is doing something, which is a far better place than were I was a few months back. Now there's some strengthening stuff going on that feels like strengthening - it's actually fun in a type 2 way.

Good to see your shoulder hasn't held you back - nice work on Saturday.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan! Pretty good week this week.

Mon Swimming. Hadn't been for ages, fancied a couple of km in the pool. Warmup, 10x100 alt IM/fc, 8x50 kick fly/fc on 70, some sprints alt fly/fc, and a round of weeping for my lost triceps. Total 2150m.
Tue Hot and slow run, 6km in 33:06.
Wed Nothing.
Thu Nothing.
Fri After abandoning a rainy walk-in to an increasingly wet-looking Main Wall, had a really good sunny afternoon sport climbing at Dinbren, N Wales. Got two 6bs, one of which was a flash (!!) and both of which were really enjoyable routes.
Sat Back at Dinbren, didn't achieve as much but still a nice day. Got kind of mauled on a 6c that kept spitting me off really awkwardly.
Sun Walk round the Llangollen hills, ~6 hours.

Goals:

Short term (Aug, Sep)

• work on fear
  • currently winning on this front, it wasn't holding me back much at all at Dinbren. Let's see how long it lasts....
• work on Rustler (6c) some more
  • stil haven't gone back for this
• survive conference trip next week without too much excess of eating and sitting around
• do some core/circuits type stuff with the kettlebells

Medium term (Aug, Sep, Oct)

• maintain weight in 56-58kg range
  • 59.4kg, down 0.1
• go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
  • did well this week
• try Chepito at Brean?

Maybe someday

• redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
• redpoint another something beginning with 7 outdoors??
• lead a VS???

In reply to Si dH:
Great effort!

Glad I looked at the database before pointing out you hadn't clipped the chains what a weird finish. Looks a cool route and seen off in good style.

In reply to biscuit:
Thanks Andy. Yer it's a really good route.
Several of the routes there finish in the same way. There have been attempts over the years to install proper lower-offs near the finishing jugs over the lip, but because of the shape of the crag they all result in hideous rope drag when stripping the route, and worries about bad rope wear over the over the edge of the top roof. So they have generally been removed again to avoid people using them when they shouldn't.
There is a second 'top bolt' just above the final one that you clip on lead, and both those last two have maillons, so that you can pull back up the rope and then lower off two bolts rather than one to strip it. Once you get used to the fact that there is no lower off and you just have to jump, it's quite fun


Just babbling a bit more about this beacuse I'm on my lunch break and I'm still psyched.
I can't help thinking that it didn't really feel any harder than Arch Enemies. It took me a session fewer to complete (4 vs 5), although it's true that the day I did Arch Enemies, after 3 weeks of aeropow (FoC) training, it suddenly felt way easier, and I think I've still been feeling the benefits of that training period on Free Monster. Perhaps Arch Enemies would have gone in 2 or 3 sessions if I'd done that training earlier.
The weird thing also though is that what I found hard about Free Monster wasn't what I had expected. After the initial wall (which has an on/off droppable V4-ish deadpoint move on i,t but then some big shake-out jugs at the top) the route basically comes down to a couple of long but easy moves up a leaning wall, then a crux sequence of about Font 6C+ish, then keeping going on very steep ground but with big holds all the way to the top. I had always expected this top section to be the challenge for me, because of all the bouldering I've been doing over the last 18 months and relative lack of mileage (the only other route Ive been on at all being AE.) However as it transpired, once I had wired the moves the top bit felt easy, and I was 90% confident that the first time I got fully through the crux and made the 5th clip on lead, I'd finish the route. This is in the end exactly what happened. In retrospect, I think it comes down to types of holds. I'm strong on small crimps for short crux sections (bouldering) and I can last reasonably well on steep ground with big holds, but I think where I'm weaker (and where I struggled on Arch Enemies) is if I have to do any moves on smaller holds when I'm alreayd pumped. This is where I struggled on AE; it was when I finally got to the crux not pumped, that it felt easy. In contrast, on FM by the time you get pumped, although very steep you are past all the bits with small holds, and it is more about shoulder, core and upper body strength than about fingers.
This is the only way I reconcile it in my mind.

Forgive the self-indulgent ramble...

In reply to mrchewy:

Good luck K. Glad all is not at sea! Just lurking btw.
Si, you've come a way since the old Kelsey Kerridge, was that your first 8a? Effort.

In reply to Kevster:

Yep! Thanks.

In reply to Dandan:


Ah, but it didn't stop Nick going full beans on Warlord!

I forget what I did for half this week.

- I definitely did a Sufferfest on the bike which I think was Tuesday - I volunteered to do the cycle leg of a relay triathlon mid September with work so I felt like I should hit a bit of speed work.
- We got the lattice edge all set up although I've not had time to benchmark on it yet.
- I did some log splitting playing with the splitting maul, an excellent toy, and tried the reciprocating saw which takes some getting used to but should help getting the logs into the sorts of sizes which I can then split.
- I had an evening outside where I did a few short and hard routes at a sweltering hedbury quarry.

Weekend I had a day up at the cromlech, although very tired from a long drive in bank holiday traffic and being woken up early. I also saw some old friends on Sunday that I hadn't seen from years which was excellent. Up at the cromlech I did Cemetery Gates (E1 5b) which I'd done years ago. Felt great - last time it was near my limit and felt pumpy and with some hard moves on it whereas this time I climbed smoothly between obvious rest points and I didn't find any hard moves at all. An excellent route and a great experience to have climbing it. After that I did Left Wall Direct Finish (E3 5c). I've been on left wall before - I seconded it in the cold years ago and rested at the awkward moves right struggling to retrieve a wire had an abortive lead attempt the year after. I also seconded it clean the day I fell off resurrection. But again, a really great experience, I felt like I was more at home on the cromlech rock than I usually do, I didn't faff too much, although I still find the moves right awkward, and I pulled off a few poky hard pulls right at the top of the route feeling not too pumped and relatively fit. The headwall again felt like bursts of moves between respites rather than feeling continuous. After last week, a very good confidence boost. I was almost contemplating trying resurrection again which is a more promising mental place to be than last weekend.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for the stats Dandan. If there was any time to prod you about doing some cardio, it's when you've just presented the diagnosis of 'chain-smoking gorilla' :p

M - Rest
T - Wintour's Leap, GO Wall, The Jackal (E5 6a). Not bad for an evening hit, I thought
W - 10km run, hill reps
T - Rest
F - Sport at Dinbren, ticked Ice (7b). After getting rained off on the approach to Cyrn Las in the pass, we turned round and went sport climbing in the sun.
S - Back to Dinbren. Finished off Technicolour Yawn (7a+) which I'd started the previous day.
S - Walk around the Clwyd hills. Nice area, and much quieter than Snowdonia on a bank holiday

Trad is going well at the moment. I was a bit of a punter on sport at the weekend. Turns out I still need to concentrate. Once I remembered that, it went a bit better.

STG

Trad: More E4, another E5? Another E5 down this week!

Sport: progress on one of the projects. Nothing to report here.

Running: over 100km in August, including 1 week with 50km. Tick on both fronts! (though I was a bit lax last week)

MTG

Sub-90 in Bristol half in September.

A tick of Right-Hand Man (8a) or Prisoner of Bullworker (7c+) could be on the cards. Well, only if I get psyched to actually go back to them.

LTG

Snowdonia marathon 2017

All the Avon Gorge routes in the West Country Climbs Rockfax.

BHAG

The Long Hope Route

Black Bean

In reply to Nick Russell:

3/4 pitch classic E5 in an evening...not bad is a bit of an understatement!

In reply to Dandan:

2 days of being ill, then having to catch up on work meant I wasn't able to climb until the weekend.

M,T: Ill
W-F: Nothing
Sat: TCA - tried the majority of yellows I hadn't tried before. Found the section of ones I can do unlike last time. Couple that I know will go with a bit more beta, a good brush and it not too be too hot. They're still v powerful and reachy! Not a set for shorties like me
Sun: Cheddar with hms and Ally. Mixed weather but lovely day once the rain stopped! got a 6b which was a bit of a stinker.

Next week is my last proper week of summer as I'm starting a "proper" job on the 5th. Hopefully I can still find time to get climbing a couple of times a week!

In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.

No rock this week but 3 decent wall sessions.

Went to the depot mon eve. Usual kid in a sweet shop, no resting, running from one problem to the next. Did lots of easy stuff, lots of blacks and all the Reds I tried I flashed. Got 3 purples, two flash one second go.

Then got on the circuits. Couple of warm ups then flashed the 7a, failed on the 7a+ Half way round, failed on the 7b (due to getting wrong handed or I think it would have gone) 3/4 of way round, then failed on the 7b+ Half way round. Knackered. The rhs circuit is v hard dropping down through the steep bit.

Tried a session on Tues but quickly apparent nothing in the tank so rested.

Wed was AnCap on a new problem. V5 ish. Failed on 3rd and 4th of 3rd set so stopped there.

Friday was first aero pow session. 3 sets of 4 reps of 6c+ ( it's a 6c really I think). On auto belays and only rest was lowering off. Got pumped for sure but a bit easy and the 7a I find nails for some reason. May need to tweak it.

In reply to Dandan:

thanks Dan. Yes, really nice to get shot of Remembrance. Have a nasty feeling I may have a new project after being bullied at the weekend!

M - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute, back to Armistice in the evening to tick a 7a+. Only 1 more viable route left at the crag, a 7a at the far LHS, but need to unearth it from the vegetation. There is another 7c but I think it is lost to nature for ever - we'll see.
W - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. TCA in the evening. Got well and truly too busy by the end. Ticked a couple more yellows. Possible a couple more may go. Also went round and did 6ish of the reds.
F - 2 miles walking. Core.
S - Ban y Gor with Ally. Ticked a 7b which had defeated me a couple of years ago. Had to rework but could remember a surprising amount of the sequence. The move to a sharp pocket which seemed impossible before now went with ease. The had a bit of a mare on a 7a - difficult seq off the mid height ledge, which I promptly came off & decked onto hard. Did claw my way clip by clip to the top but in gibbering terror. I hate ledges!
S - Cheddar with Ally & D1, who promptly ganged up on me and bullied me onto Right-Hand Man. Over several attempts I put together some bits of sequence, but only up to about half height. Need to swap notes with Nick.
M - Wintours Leap with Ally. As a warm-up we did King Kong. I'd forgotten just how flipping slow trad multi-pitch is! As Ally said at the time, Alex Honnold would have sauntered up The Nose in about the same time this 1 route took us. Then went on to try Heil Hitler, 7a. Turned out to have 1 very morpho move which took a fair bit of unlocking and then more tries than I would have liked to get a clean lead.

Good weekend. Now feel pretty darn tired after 3 days outside. Hope to get out again at least once this week, whilst the weather still holds. When the weather does inevitably crap out, it's probably about time I redid some benchmarks. Apparently I need to 'get stronger' so I think this will be a winter of bouldering & steep circuits.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan

Spent way too much time taking photos this week and not training but some good of it come and I managed to get one of my photos into a local newspaper

Last weeks goals

Drop to 82kg - fail still at 83kg
2 mountain walks - Tick
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp - fail
Climb at least twice - Fail only 1 climb

Next weeks goals

Drop to 82kg
2 mountain walks
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp
Climb at least twice

MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept

LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter

BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - 4 hour walk around Coity carry a big pack full of camera gear
Wednesday - Lead Poppin' in the Poop Deck (5c), and Sharktopus vs Megapotamus (4c) but dogged the first move on this which I am quite gutted about but what a start to a 4, really did not expect it. Once past the second clip it was like a walk in the park. Top roped Yar! (5a)
Thursday - Rest
Friday - Rest
Saturday - 5 hour walk around the beacons
Sunday - Family time

Happy Training
Lee

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for starting the thread again Dan.

August has run it's course and I've not ticked any of my stated goals

Week 35:
M - Drove to Devil’s Gorge, condensed. Drove on to the Cave – link-up project was seeping. Did a 7a on the end of the Orme – failed on a super crozzly 7a+ with drained psyche. Drove home. Lots of driving for very little climbing.
T - Nothing.
W - Devil’s Gorge again. Slightly damp on starting holds, but so much better than Monday evening. Dogged project #2. RP#1; 7c bit felt easiest it has done, but struggled to get into kneebar and recover. Good go on the crux – got crimp a little wrong, but had enough to adjust; fell on next move. Faffed with new resting positions, but nothing better than the wiggy kneebar. RP#2; got more pumped on the 7c bit, fell off same move leaving crimp. Pulled back on and went to the top. Stripped it. Only getting 2x RP due to lack of light – maybe need a weekend session on it?
T - Managed to fit in a 70% 10:3 an-cap session. Pretty brutal/short & intense session before going to yoga. Stand-in instructor gave different emphasis on poses and hence class felt harder than normal. Back is starting to work better now
F - Rest
S - Ban-y-gor. 6b+ OS warm-up. OS attempt on Almost Me (7c) – wrong handed at the lip. Simple RP afterwards. The Drilling Fields (7c+) flashy OS go, then RP afters. Gimme Back My Head (7b) flash to warm down.
S - Cheddar in the mizzle/rain. Headache from yesterday, so visit to Costa whilst crag dried was welcome. 6b+ flash warm-up. Found a route that stayed dry Just Say No (8a) and after much prevarication got up the start The Wrist Business (7c+) start and smashed the extension finish. Bullied belayer into trying something hard.

Q3 functional goals:
- Benchmark finger strength % - Done. Now aiming for 2% point increase
- Benchmark an-cap – Done. Now aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
- Aim to increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions. (The reality might be some way off as all core training is cancelled until back is better)

August route goals - end of term report:
#1 - Traverse of the Gods, f8b+ Only had one damp session. Need to go back.
Clean and do Gorge projects:
#2 - Devil’s Haircut extension; f8a+? Cleaned and actively trying
#3 - Link-up heaven; stamina f8b? Not cleaned or tried
#4 - Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, easy f8b? Close, but no cigar.
#5 - Clean new section and try all the moves on the Kilnsey project. Cleaned, but not tried the moves. Looks dry again now...

In reply to hms:


I sent Nick over what beta I can recall a few weeks back if any of it helps.

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers me,
Bit of a limbo week really, I'm waiting for Tom's new training plan to kick off so the week didn't feel very focussed, still kept myself busy though.

M: Bodyweight antagonists; turns out I can still practice handstands in my tiny new lodgings, as long as I tuck my legs in before I clatter into the desk...
T: Indoor Boulder; Couple of routes to warm up to about V5/6, then 3 x 10 minutes AeroCap.
W: Bit of riding, went digging jumps in the woods! Yes I'm 34 years old and I don't care, it was great fun!
T: Indoor routes; 1 on 1 off, 3 sets at 7a, 6c+, 6c, got progressively more pumped each time so I was trying to find a good level.
F: Bricklaying, made a start on the 600 bricks I need to put down for my workshop base.
S: More bricklaying, had a brickie friend come over and help me sort out the corners, the base is level to within a millimetre and is square to within 7mm, that's 0.1%, I can live with that!
S: Indoor Boulder; went to Red Spider, just had a play really, routes up to V6, really enjoyed myself, their route setting is superb, really varied, pretty balanced and a lot of fun.

Tom's new plan arrived yesterday so that will begin this week, it's really nicely organised, I'm looking forward to getting started!
I'll sort out some new goals next week, they'll be based around holiday ticks mostly I imagine, Tom is going to do a mini taper up to the October trip to Margalef so I can still have some fun out there, then build up properly to the trip at Easter next year.

In reply to Dandan:

Oh, I keep forgetting to mention I went to a pilates class this week and last week, it clearly didn't make enough of an impression on me as I've forgotten about it twice.
It was a beginners class (I've never done it before) which me and Mrs Dandan attended, I was a bit disappointed to be honest, it seemed to mostly be easy variations on crunches and leg raises I found it ridiculously easy, I didn't feel like I was learning anything new at all, I already know how to breathe and how to isolate muscles. It definitely wasn't worth £8 and traipsing across town on a Friday evening for, so I won't be going back.
Perhaps it was just the wrong class for me, i'm sure there is benefit to be had from pilates, i'll try and find a weeknight course that's more convenient but I'm not sure they'll let me get straight into an intermediate class without going through the slog of the beginners class again...

In reply to Dandan:

Yep there's a definite balance to be struck between full on rest and some activity, problem is it's hard to find......

Can't remember what I've done this week, rehab excercises went well until Friday and tailed off over weekend. Two yoga sessions and 2 trips to Depot. I've now done all bar three of the reds (one probably too hard and the others too risky) and have started playing on purples (remaining blacks are too hard!).

Sat I went to CyL with the Fox, he looked pityingly at me when I spoke of my injuries, I'm not sure if he thinks I'm whinging or genuinely crocked, either way he advised seeking professional help (and seeing a physio, ho ho). Managed most of the moves I could do before but there was little chance of stringing them together.

My Depot pass runs out this week so will be returning to routes for a bit but house move will preclude much training.

In reply to Tyler:


Was high break dry/chalked? And the Lowlife break for that matter?


Chortle chortle...


Will you be Manchester based again? I could do with a few low end aero-cap type sessions - Awful walls in a few weeks time?

In reply to Dandan:

The ashtanga yoga class i go to feels like a good work-out and has benefits my core strength and flexibility - maybe try that instead of pilates?

In reply to Ally Smith:


Low life dry (I can't do the moves on that, not sure what's going on, seems desp), not sure about high break but only definite wetness I saw was on In Excess SS, I'd be surprised if it wasn't primo by now.

I'm moving from central Manchester back to the wilds of Lancs so I'll be going to Stockport over winter, shoulder permitting.

In reply to Tyler:

Hi all

STG - Good last 5 weeks pre Kalymnos, stay in shape and don't get injured!
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b
BHAG = 8a by 40

A quick post really just to get back in the habit. Nothing much for the last 2 weeks, I've been lazing around in Jakarta and then Bali. A bit of yoga / ab exercise / surfing but basically very little for almost 2 weeks. Have returned with a suntan and another kg round the middle but also renewed psyche and hopefully a few less niggles. 5 weeks (incl this one) till Kalymnos so aiming for a few more decent weeks training and then an easy final week before heading out. No outside this week but hopefully get 4 or so days in of various training.

In reply to Tyler:

and top work Si as well

In reply to Ally Smith:

My knowledge of what all the bits are called is limited but myself and The Fox were there yesterday and everything up to the wobbly block was dry.

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Rest week in fact, much needed.

Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. 6x 2 laps on 7a.
Weeks: Wall. 6x 2 laps on 7a.
Thurs: Fingerboard, weighted pullups.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Much rain. Battleship pm, rock surprisingly dry. Managed not to fall off Buoys will be Buoys for the first time ever Good go at Jurassic Shift (7a).
Sun: Cheyne Cliff in the drizzle, atmospheric but maybe not my smartest ever choice of venue. 4 goes on Road Rage. Felt good on the moves and managed some decent links but pinging off damp holds unpredictably. Lost track of time and nearly got benighted on Julie Ocean, not a clue how to do the top.

In reply to Si dH:
Nice one Si! Nick says good work

In reply to Ian Bell:
Might see see you in Kalymnos! I'm there for 2 weeks from end of September.

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan, I may change my hobby of choice and just do press-ups instead of climbing. It seems easier to make progress! A mixed week for me - an unexpected bouldering fix at Cratcliffe Torwhilst visiting family. The whole family came along (six adults and five kids). I got a few precious moments of quality time in then the circus found us after they had gone to the Hermit's Cave and all hell broke loose with small children getting up, not getting up, getting stuck and jumping off. Still, at least I touched rock!

On the injury side not much progress - the osteo look suprised and ask me how I'd managed to make my iliotibial band so screwed since I last saw her and told me I might be able to run for a few minutes in a month or so. I also broke a toe running into a large fossil in my garden whilst carrying a bath toy out to the paddling pool. What is it with me and limping? I can't remember a time when I was not limping for some reason. GAH!

On the whole I am very much enjoying Fitclub and recording and reflecting on my struggles.

Stats:
Mon - Nothing
Tues - P42, S36
Weds - P46, S36
Thurs - Swimming 1150m, 34 mins. (Broke toe this day).
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Bouldering at Cratcliffe

Weight: 72.8
Injury report: Broken.

Goals:
Short Term (next four weeks)
Press -ups - 50 in 2 mins
Sit-ups 50 in 2 mins
Flash 6a at the wall.

Medium Term (over course of next year)
Get up a 6c at the wall.
Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running.
Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Suspension Flake at Hound Tor, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi
Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.

Long Term
I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH

BHAG - Cenotaph Corner

In reply to Dandan:

Also - finally found time to read the articles about training. I think the link in the intro blurb has got corrupted? An older fitclub thread goes here http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 or have I missed something in the thread you link to at the top?

Hmmm, fingerboards...

In reply to Ally Smith:

Don't suppose you need a belay for Saturday (3rd)? I'm keen to get back on LAH after a Bank Holiday sampling the delights of the Peak lime.

In reply to Bobling:

Yeah that's been copy/pasted to death somewhere along the line, I'll try to remember to fix it for next week!

In reply to Curious Yellow:

Might indeed, that's random as I think I bumped into you and nick when I was there a couple of years ago as well!

Saw you were trying road rage, how is that part of the cliff? I thought it was all too dangerous to visit after the rockfall but obviously I was wrong. Julie Ocean is great but would agree its hard, took me about 5 goes to tick it, certainly done easier 7as in Portland.

In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Sorry - no free weekends for quite some time now. Need to rescue my draws though, so will endeavour to get up there ASAP

In reply to Dandan:


Yes, I'm going to score my mental state of all leads with Red-Amber-Green. Red: I lost the mental battle and cheated, e.g. diverted off-route, pulled on gear or backed off. Amber: Mentally, I was not always in control and/or this was manifested in lots of unnecessary gear being placed, repeated climbing up and down or similar faff. Green: good flow and steady climbing, mental challenges allowed but dealt with as part of the climb. These will be scored in the UKC comments, by using the first letter of the comment, so that I can download my logbook, import to Excel and analyse long term trends. Trends will focus on three categories, currently below VS, VS and above VS. The categories will step up a grade when I consider myself to be stepping up a grade. In this week, I've just reported number of climbs but I have recorded RAG scores for the past few weeks of climbs and will update these into my UKC logbook when I get a chance. Thanks for the reminder about SMART goals, this is really relevant and motivational to me!

STG (end of August)
Re-establish fitness habits; = tick, good habits re-established in climbing, running and biking
Focus on trad outdoors - tick
Have a fun long bank holiday weekend - tick, lots of VS and some HVS climbed

New STGs (end of Sept)
Get on at least one HVS per trad session
Base training for Abbey Dash 10K in October
Bike commuting at least once a week
SkiFit once a week, includes core work

MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule

LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again

BHAG
Big wall solo

Last week was

Mon Leading at Harrogate, upto F6b+
Tue Trad at Baildon Bank, 2 x VS
Wed Trad at Almscliff, 2 x VS. Lots of climbing is aggravating my achilles tendon after running at the weekend
Thu Eccentric heel raises to counter sore heels after too much running fast/on the beach last week. Calf massage and foam rollering.
Fri Nothing, calves are solid! More massage.
Sat Climbing, trad at Pot Scar, 5 x VS
Sun Nothing, calves and achilles getting better

Good progress made on bumping up my trad grade, starting to itch to get back on more HVS routes. Back to running and biking next week once my calves/achilles has recovered. And reporting on retrospective RAG scores to be updated too...

In reply to SteveM:

I had achilles trouble for many years but solved it (at least when rock climbing ) by avoiding any shoesthat dig in to the tendon at the back, and wearing things that came up a bit higher. (Lots of shoes are better now, but eg the old pinks were terrible.) It would be worth experimenting if you can.

In reply to Si dH:

Thanks, good thoughts and funnily enough I've just come back to pinks (last 6-9 months or so) after using Evolv Defys & then Bandits for the past few years. The pinks need replacing as i found a hole in the toe! I've really liked the new pinks though and I'm willing to persevere for another pair as I think that applying Occam's razor would blame an hour barefoot running on the beach last weekend.

In reply to SteveM:

To be fair I think the modern pinks' heel is very different.

In reply to Dandan:


It's an off-road marathon, though I'm wishing I'd entered the half!

m - 10k cycle ride
t - 10k cycle ride, ~3k run warm up, 10 x 400m with 60s recovery
w - 10k cycling
t - 10k cycling, then a terrible drive to Scotland
f - rest
s - 5k Linwood parkrun 24:10
s - rest

I've had to swap my short term and medium term goals as the Yorkshireman is breathing down my neck!
MTG - parkrun PB at Bradford or Halifax - didn't manage it this week
STG - Complete the Yorkshireman Marathon (September) in 5hr30min.
LTG - Climb a big mountain next year.

In reply to Dandan:

I hear you on the pilates. Beginner stuff for anyone remotely active with a decent core is pointless. Yes of course I can stand on one leg without falling over! Crunches? Ha! I also wrote it off after a beginner class but some of my friends say the advanced stuff is really good...I'm just too stubborn to go back again...

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. I might just possibly be getting that through to my brain First week of the plan. I hated my new fingerboard session, but then remembered how much I hated continuity. But then that was eclipsed by bar and rings. And fortunately polarised continuity wasn't as bad as I thought it would be... enough whining. Major gains to be made! I finished the week light a 1on/2off but have squeezed that in this week so back up to speed I hope...

M - rest
T - rest
W - Fingerboard
T - continuity / conditioning
F - Trad Wildcat
S - V6 Rheinstor then bar and rings conditioning.
S - polarised continuity on the circuit board at Climbing Unit. Push-ups.

In reply to Just Tintin:



???

In reply to Just Tintin and Si dH:


I've just done my first session of this too, from Tom's plan. My instructions say climb a route at your onsight limit, shake out at the top for a minute then climb 8+ grades below your onsight limit for 4 minutes, rest and repeat x5. I'm not sure of the specific target of the session but like Just Tintin, it wasn't as bad as I was expecting.

In reply to Dandan:
Gets you a bit more pumped before starting your continuity stuff I guess, and with a definite hi-low split (8 is a bigger drop than usual continuity, right?). Similar idea to split continuity...

In reply to Dandan:

It's the 500th Fit Club on the 16th Oct maybe we should do something to mark the anniversary? I thought we should maybe set a sub-goal or mini-peak and really bust a gut to achieve it. The sort of thing I was thinking of was doing something different to what you normally do to either attack specific weaknesses or just for a change. So a climber setting some running goals, a runner setting some conditioning goals or getting someone to do something they've prevaricated on for ages, e.g. there are people with good intentions of doing fingerboarding but never quite get around to it, people who want to climb 8a but never get on anything harder than 7a so don't know what it's like etc.

We could even set goals for each other......

What do you think?

In reply to Tyler:

Here's some suggestions for week 500 goals: - heckling for those i know in person...

Tyler - do your physio everyday for a week with perfect form (even if you're back climbing by then - think of it as "pre-hab"
hms - do some steep bouldering with dynamic moves/get back on RHM
AJM - Get on an E5
Si dH - Do some offwidths
Me - do ToTG, do some deadlifts/bench bodyweight, cycle to work everyday for a week,
Luke Owens - do a 10 sessions of low end aero-cap before week 500

In reply to Ally Smith:

That's just the sort of thing I was thinking of (although I can't help thinking you've been a bit harsh on Si dH although you might say he needs slowing down, having exceeded every goal he's set himself this year!), only thing I would add is if we set challenges for people that are related to their current sport there should be a tangible achievement to reach by the end period, so for me maybe touching my toes.

In reply to Ally Smith:

So that's either Sunday, or at my house warming (thanks in advance for offering to belay!) - I think the weekends in between are probably mainly on cider soak and after that I'm in Montserrat.

It's a good idea actually. And I might think through suggestions for others too - if everyone did it it would be useful as a measure of what other people think you're capable of which might offer some new perspectives.

But yes, fine, I'll try to do 2/3 of getting on an E5, ticking Cider Soak, or trying an 8a+ out for size in Montserrat (as in, trying it out with an ambition to return one day for it - it's not a red pointing trip so that would be it).

Edit: let's up the game and say 2 E5s as otherwise it's a bit easy just getting on one - the trick will be trying again after the first dismal failure!

In reply to Tyler:

I agree, grit offwidthing days are are well behind me!
Plus there are still some font 7C related goals that need some hard work...

In reply to AJM:

Polaris (E5 6a)??!!??

Devonshire Cream (E5 6a)??!!??

In reply to Ally Smith:
I don't know - I may just have to bank all my hopes on cider soak and being able to dog a stamina 8a+! Probably not ds though as it looks rather too highball ankle-snappy for my liking.....

Edit: unless you lap ds a few times and get it chalked up and good for a flash, in which case I probably still won't

In reply to Dandan:

Bike focus week and full day of skiing bring me up to level 6 standard. A good week and stuck to the plan. Enjoyed a nice bouldering session on Saturday as well.

Mon: Rest
Tue: Rest
Wed: Full day of skiing. Levels 4-6 at Chill Factore, 6 hours of skiing today.
Thu: 1hr MTB mostly spinning yesterday out of my legs but some high cadence hills in z3 too.
Fri: 1hr MTB including 30 mins tapping it out at zone 3.
Sat: 1hr MTB leg spin. 6hr walk in Peak. 1.5hrs indoor bouldering.
Sun: 1hr 40mins MTB including some local trails.

STGs:
Follow bike plan TICK!
Climb or strength train 2x per week 1/2
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2

MTGs (before end 2016):
Boulder V5/6
Get competent at skiing part 1: Levels 1-3 at Chill Factore TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 2: Levels 4-6 at Chill Factore TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 3: Just got to get some mileage in now!

In reply to Tyler:

Sounds like a fun idea, I'll put any targets up on the top post next week and people can suggest more or argue against the ones set for them!

I don't know what to put for me, I'll be at the start of a mini taper week for Margalef the following weekend so I don't want to be pushing climbing too hard, perhaps a flexibility challenge? Hmm.

In reply to AJM:


On the south face there's a lovely wall of 8s that stay in the shade and aren't too badly bolted - I belayed Jordon on one of them and the stuff in the sun goes from the 6s upwards. I'll check the guide tomorrow when I head to the lockup and let you know which sector. It was certainly the best area I've been to in maybe three weeks total at Montserrat.

If you wanna borrow the guide, let me know and I'll get it to you with yours.

In reply to mrchewy:

Cheers Kelvin - beta sounds great but I've got the Montserrat free climbs book already so good for guides. Any beta on good multipath too always appreciated...

In reply to Dandan:

I was thinking a nice techy slab or smeary arête (headpoint) for you.... Not too physical so fits in well with your taper

In reply to Dandan:
M- 8mile run followed by a core sesssion.
T-Board session
W-Work/Rest
T-Work/Rest
F-Rest
S-Conwy Parkrun (19:53) followed by the Diamond. Fell off the crux of Boat People a few times. What an ace route. Approach is a bit sketch though!
S-Sunbathing @ Porth Ysgo. I had skin, so I managed to get myself up Popcorn Party.


Training plan is just me messing around doing the same thing I've always done. So it probably means I'll get stronger and less fit in climbing and fitter and less strong in running.

In reply to Tyler:

I could go a techy slab but headpoint sounds suspiciously like some trad terminology, I'm strictly a child of sport!
Do they have techy slabs on Portland, I know there's a fair few hard aretes...

In reply to SteveM:

Sportive mythos. Most ankle friendly comfy shoe in the world. And climbs ok too. Just a suggestion, if you can find any then try the on.

In reply to Dandan:

Second set this morning...completely broken from yesterday's training so maybe I won't be so positive in this week's write-up

In reply to Kevster:

Thanks Kevster, the hole is getting worse so I'm going shopping today and keep a look out for them