UKC

Heading out for this next week and after some info?
Is the route fully bolted or do I need some trad gear?
Single rope or doubles?
Cheers
Mark

In reply to mark hounslea:
It's an awesome line. Probably the best sport multi-pitch route that I've done at it's grade. If I recall correctly, it's fully bolted. I think we read somewhere that you might want to bring a few cams to fill in the gaps. I think we did but never used them. Single rope is fine as long as you're confident of getting to the top.

In reply to tjoliver:

Youll be fine with a single 60 rope, we used a pair of super skinny twins. Looking at the grades you climb, you probably won't need any other gear, but if you take anything, some small/medium friends would be the best bet. No need for any wires, and I think a few more quick draws than plasir selection recommends (one pitch needs 14 or so). The first two pitches are the hardest, and most scarcely bolted, once you pass these it eases up considerably.

There's currently a big snow field on the way down, no need for crampons/axe, but some stiff boots will make coming down the snow quicker, and much more pleasant than trying to outflank the snow, on the scree, in trainers!

In reply to LJC:
Snow field was avoidable on 8th Aug, we used approach shoes

In reply to mark hounslea:

Thanks for the info

In reply to mark hounslea:

If for any reason whatsoever you need to go backwards at some point on the route - whether injury, getting lost, late etc etc what would you do without two ropes?

In reply to barry donovan:


Shorter abseils

Only a problem if the anchors are more than half your rope length apart.

Several options, the easiest probably being to leave krabs on mid pitch bolts.

HTH

In reply to Rick Graham:
Exactly, half the rope and twice as many abseils.

Over the last 30 years I've been up that face a few times and once back down the opposite way, in the dark, in a straight line. We abseiled each time not knowing where the next anchor was. Luckily there were three of us and we had two ropes. I would volunteer to be marooned on the dark side of the moon rather than do it again with a single rope.

You choose

In reply to barry donovan:




Exactly. It depends on the crag ( and mountain ) if the convenience of single rope on the way up is outweighed by the advantages of two ropes for getting down.

In reply to mark hounslea:
I took extra gear but didnt use any apart from some slings on the final ridge. bolts are occasionally well spaced but where you want them. We took doubles but again did not need them as we went off the back. Getting of the face with a single would be exciting but possible if you dont mind going off single bolts.
Its a totaly awsome climb with a bit of everthing.
I also didnt realise the name was a reference to the hut guardians visit for a scan of her first child which really added to the history and character of the route