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Just found out that I will not be climbing for 6 weeks due to a chipped pinkie knuckle. (Was throwing an american football around with some mates, I miss judged a pass and the ball nailed my pinkie, pulling a ligamet which in turn pull a chunk of bone from off the knuckle.)
The realization that all the work I have put in for the last 6 months could be all down the drain is flipping soul destroying!
Has anyone had a similar injury? What did you do to not go crazy? And stay strong?
The realization that all the work I have put in for the last 6 months could be all down the drain is flipping soul destroying!
Has anyone had a similar injury? What did you do to not go crazy? And stay strong?
1
In reply to Jycalv95:
When I broke my hand years ago I just climbed one handed. Taught me quite a bit about feet, balance and deadpointing. Not ideal but better than nothing.
Right now I'm not climbing due to knee reconstruction... months until I'll boulder again. I feel your boredom... when the drugs wear off I might try some deadhanging and hand exercises.
When I broke my hand years ago I just climbed one handed. Taught me quite a bit about feet, balance and deadpointing. Not ideal but better than nothing.
Right now I'm not climbing due to knee reconstruction... months until I'll boulder again. I feel your boredom... when the drugs wear off I might try some deadhanging and hand exercises.
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In reply to Jycalv95:
ouch, I feel for you. If your local wall has slabs, you could practice feet only on holds, with palms against the wall. Other option is to climb with tennis balls in your hands, so you'll be less tempted to grab a hold with your injured hand.
Good luck with healing!
ouch, I feel for you. If your local wall has slabs, you could practice feet only on holds, with palms against the wall. Other option is to climb with tennis balls in your hands, so you'll be less tempted to grab a hold with your injured hand.
Good luck with healing!
4
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In reply to Jycalv95:
I've had a shit year for injuries.
First had a tendon pulley injury in my left hand at the start of the year and was off climbing for 10 weeks of physio. Was doing my absolute nut in.
Then two weekends ago I had a stupid fall on my bike at Glentress and broke the radial head in my left arm - so that's another 6 weeks off, 8 weeks before a crowd of us head out for some climbing in Spain. This time no biking either and I was meant to be going up north to Glenlivet & Laggan biking with a mate.
Hang in there - do the exercises.
I've had a shit year for injuries.
First had a tendon pulley injury in my left hand at the start of the year and was off climbing for 10 weeks of physio. Was doing my absolute nut in.
Then two weekends ago I had a stupid fall on my bike at Glentress and broke the radial head in my left arm - so that's another 6 weeks off, 8 weeks before a crowd of us head out for some climbing in Spain. This time no biking either and I was meant to be going up north to Glenlivet & Laggan biking with a mate.
Hang in there - do the exercises.
1
In reply to Jycalv95:
I have been out of action for eight weeks now due to a climbing accident earlier this summer when I fractured 7 vertebrae, my left scapula and humerus joint and some ribs. I'll be out of action for some time to come as I'm likely going to need an operation and recovery time will be long.
I had just started climbing reasonably well again after a shoulder operation a few years ago and beginning to push the grades, so I know what you are going through. It's been a hard summer for me as most of my friends have been getting out very regularly and getting plenty of climbing done. The Olympics and the Tour de France passed some time but it has been and is a very frustrating time.
I have been out of action for eight weeks now due to a climbing accident earlier this summer when I fractured 7 vertebrae, my left scapula and humerus joint and some ribs. I'll be out of action for some time to come as I'm likely going to need an operation and recovery time will be long.
I had just started climbing reasonably well again after a shoulder operation a few years ago and beginning to push the grades, so I know what you are going through. It's been a hard summer for me as most of my friends have been getting out very regularly and getting plenty of climbing done. The Olympics and the Tour de France passed some time but it has been and is a very frustrating time.
Post edited at 16:14
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In reply to Christheclimber:
Flipping heck, my finger is nothing compared to that! How did you do it?
Flipping heck, my finger is nothing compared to that! How did you do it?
2
In reply to Jycalv95:
I was climbing at Giggleswick and had just finished leading a route and was being lowered off the belay bolts when I was hit by a falling block on the head and shoulder (not that I remember much as I was out cold for some time) My mate Mike was brilliant, he lowered me off and made me as comfortable and safe as possible and then called out Mountain Rescue. I was eventually winched out by helicopter and transferred to an air ambulance and on to A&E. Glad I had my helmet on for this route as it probably saved my life.
> Flipping heck, my finger is nothing compared to that! How did you do it?
I was climbing at Giggleswick and had just finished leading a route and was being lowered off the belay bolts when I was hit by a falling block on the head and shoulder (not that I remember much as I was out cold for some time) My mate Mike was brilliant, he lowered me off and made me as comfortable and safe as possible and then called out Mountain Rescue. I was eventually winched out by helicopter and transferred to an air ambulance and on to A&E. Glad I had my helmet on for this route as it probably saved my life.
15
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In reply to Jycalv95:
Commisserations. Injuries suck. But if it's only the pinkie I wouldn't let that stop you climbing. Should be able to climb/train with just 3 fingers on that hand. Climbing on pockets, the pinkies don't get used anyway. And climbing open handed for people with short pinkies the same happens naturally as the pinkies can't reach the hold.
So I would definitely try training/climbing around the injury rather than stopping altogether - you could get stronger over the next 6 weeks not weaker.
Commisserations. Injuries suck. But if it's only the pinkie I wouldn't let that stop you climbing. Should be able to climb/train with just 3 fingers on that hand. Climbing on pockets, the pinkies don't get used anyway. And climbing open handed for people with short pinkies the same happens naturally as the pinkies can't reach the hold.
So I would definitely try training/climbing around the injury rather than stopping altogether - you could get stronger over the next 6 weeks not weaker.
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In reply to Jycalv95:
Good luck with the recovery and keep the rest of your body working and don't get too bored!
> Flipping Heck!!!
Good luck with the recovery and keep the rest of your body working and don't get too bored!
1
In reply to stp:
Ditto. I chopped the end of my index finger off with a mandoline a couple of years ago. Once the bleeding had abated (a couple of weeks) I just splinted it up with a cardboard tube so it couldn't bend and went back to climbing very precisely (no slaps, no dynos). Overall my technique (footwork, body positions) improved over the next few weeks.
Just be careful not to overstress the remaining fingers.
> Commisserations. Injuries suck. But if it's only the pinkie I wouldn't let that stop you climbing. Should be able to climb/train with just 3 fingers on that hand...
Ditto. I chopped the end of my index finger off with a mandoline a couple of years ago. Once the bleeding had abated (a couple of weeks) I just splinted it up with a cardboard tube so it couldn't bend and went back to climbing very precisely (no slaps, no dynos). Overall my technique (footwork, body positions) improved over the next few weeks.
Just be careful not to overstress the remaining fingers.
2
In reply to Jycalv95:
I broke my arm in Feb this year - ice climbing in Cogne - thought would be ok after 8 weeks or so but 7 months later its still not fixed (but hoping I may get good news in a weeks time). It would be grim if didnt do any climbing at all but have been doing a fair bit of one handed seconding. Been quite interesting. Have even managed off vertical HVS/E1 type stuff on grit ok (sometimes) - but then some steep severes can be impossible. Develop some interesting techniques. Anyway point is (for me anyway) getting out with climbing friends and getting some climbing done has kept me going. But it will be good to lead some harder routes again
I broke my arm in Feb this year - ice climbing in Cogne - thought would be ok after 8 weeks or so but 7 months later its still not fixed (but hoping I may get good news in a weeks time). It would be grim if didnt do any climbing at all but have been doing a fair bit of one handed seconding. Been quite interesting. Have even managed off vertical HVS/E1 type stuff on grit ok (sometimes) - but then some steep severes can be impossible. Develop some interesting techniques. Anyway point is (for me anyway) getting out with climbing friends and getting some climbing done has kept me going. But it will be good to lead some harder routes again
1
In reply to Jycalv95:
Just had a spine op which worsened my condition so my climbing is over for at least the rest of this year and unless things drastically improve maybe for a lot longer
Just had a spine op which worsened my condition so my climbing is over for at least the rest of this year and unless things drastically improve maybe for a lot longer
In reply to stp:
On the other hand, if you pull with the other fingers, the pinkie tends to curl in as well. Which might or might not be a problem -- worth checking with your doctor?
I definitely agree with training/climbing around the injury as much as possible, though. Even if you can't use that hand at all, you can go for training your Dawes-ian one-handed climbing skills.
And this could be the time for intensive work on flexibility, core strength, leg strength (pistols for those hideous rockover-and-stand-up moves?), any prehab/rehab exercises you've been neglecting, etc. etc..
Also: yes, you will lose some strength in six weeks, at least in that one hand if you can't use it. But it's going to come back much much faster than you think, in less time than it took to build it the first time round. Your previous training isn't "down the drain".
> Should be able to climb/train with just 3 fingers on that hand. Climbing on pockets, the pinkies don't get used anyway. And climbing open handed for people with short pinkies the same happens naturally as the pinkies can't reach the hold.
On the other hand, if you pull with the other fingers, the pinkie tends to curl in as well. Which might or might not be a problem -- worth checking with your doctor?
I definitely agree with training/climbing around the injury as much as possible, though. Even if you can't use that hand at all, you can go for training your Dawes-ian one-handed climbing skills.
And this could be the time for intensive work on flexibility, core strength, leg strength (pistols for those hideous rockover-and-stand-up moves?), any prehab/rehab exercises you've been neglecting, etc. etc..
Also: yes, you will lose some strength in six weeks, at least in that one hand if you can't use it. But it's going to come back much much faster than you think, in less time than it took to build it the first time round. Your previous training isn't "down the drain".
In reply to Jycalv95:
Had an injury in my left pinky. After some rest I taped the whole pinky finger stiff with tape so I couldn't use it or curl it. Just bouldered on pockets. Didn't lose strength. Did my hardest boulder, on edges, afterwards. My advice would be to try to work around the injury if possible. It can actually be an opportunity to improve weaknesses you normally neglect.
Had an injury in my left pinky. After some rest I taped the whole pinky finger stiff with tape so I couldn't use it or curl it. Just bouldered on pockets. Didn't lose strength. Did my hardest boulder, on edges, afterwards. My advice would be to try to work around the injury if possible. It can actually be an opportunity to improve weaknesses you normally neglect.
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In reply to Jycalv95:
Acute tendonitis in both elbows last winter until spring this year, no climbing, no excercise, only total rest...
But, eat loads, get fat, enjoy food! what not to like?
Acute tendonitis in both elbows last winter until spring this year, no climbing, no excercise, only total rest...
But, eat loads, get fat, enjoy food! what not to like?
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In reply to two_tapirs:
My wife was climbing Black Slab once when she got overtaken by a soloist with 1 arm.
My wife was climbing Black Slab once when she got overtaken by a soloist with 1 arm.
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In reply to douwe:
I was thinking about doing that, might leave it for 2 weeks to let it heal a bit and go from there.
I'll see what my gp says as well, might get some good advice as he climbs at the same wall I do.
I was thinking about doing that, might leave it for 2 weeks to let it heal a bit and go from there.
I'll see what my gp says as well, might get some good advice as he climbs at the same wall I do.
In reply to Jycalv95:
Pulled my A2 on my ring finger a couple of months back, just taped up, lowered my indoor grade and climbed on my front 2, it didn't make much difference to my outdoor grade except making everything a little pumpier!
Pulled my A2 on my ring finger a couple of months back, just taped up, lowered my indoor grade and climbed on my front 2, it didn't make much difference to my outdoor grade except making everything a little pumpier!
In reply to Jycalv95:
Broke my rib in February, went around 7 weeks without climbing, still felt pretty good after, didn't feel like I lost much.
The bigger problem came about 2 weeks after starting climbing again when I snapped my wrist. 5 months later and I'm still broken.
I've deffo lost a few grades worth of strength now!
Broke my rib in February, went around 7 weeks without climbing, still felt pretty good after, didn't feel like I lost much.
The bigger problem came about 2 weeks after starting climbing again when I snapped my wrist. 5 months later and I'm still broken.
I've deffo lost a few grades worth of strength now!
In reply to Mick Ward:
Yes it was certainly a reality check..............
> Puts it in perspective.
> Mick
Yes it was certainly a reality check..............
In reply to Christheclimber:
It's there for any or all of us, no matter how careful we are. Glad you're recovering OK and don't seem to be traumatised by it. Hopefully you've had your dose of bad luck and it'll never happen to you again. Fingers crossed!
Mick (who's used up more lives than the proverbial cat)
It's there for any or all of us, no matter how careful we are. Glad you're recovering OK and don't seem to be traumatised by it. Hopefully you've had your dose of bad luck and it'll never happen to you again. Fingers crossed!
Mick (who's used up more lives than the proverbial cat)
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In reply to Jycalv95:
Lost half a finger on my left hand(am left handed) struggled due to sensitivity for about six months adapted by probably over stressing my right arm did lots of crack climbing one year later back to normal I think the phycological damage is worse than the physical
Lost half a finger on my left hand(am left handed) struggled due to sensitivity for about six months adapted by probably over stressing my right arm did lots of crack climbing one year later back to normal I think the phycological damage is worse than the physical
In reply to Jycalv95:
surely you can climb in the remaining 9 initially very. carefully
if your keen enough dead hanging would be the obvious super controllable exercise. 6 weeks of repeaters (6 to 8 secs on 2 seconds of 3 or 4 min rest 3 or 4 sets)
you'll be bored but likely stronger than u started.
surely you can climb in the remaining 9 initially very. carefully
if your keen enough dead hanging would be the obvious super controllable exercise. 6 weeks of repeaters (6 to 8 secs on 2 seconds of 3 or 4 min rest 3 or 4 sets)
you'll be bored but likely stronger than u started.
In reply to Jycalv95:
It probably seems like a long time but you'll be surprised. I've just had 2 years of literally no climbing due to having two very young children and have just started bouldering again in the last 2 months as they are older now and therefore we have a little more time.
I did no climbing or any exercise of note in that time, as well as eating crap and drinking regularly. So I was seriously out of shape, having been consistently climbing font 7C before i stopped. It's only taken these 2 months of eating well, climbing three times a week and doing some cardio to get more-or-less back to where i was. So take heart; six weeks is a short layoff; use it as a chance to rest your body.
It probably seems like a long time but you'll be surprised. I've just had 2 years of literally no climbing due to having two very young children and have just started bouldering again in the last 2 months as they are older now and therefore we have a little more time.
I did no climbing or any exercise of note in that time, as well as eating crap and drinking regularly. So I was seriously out of shape, having been consistently climbing font 7C before i stopped. It's only taken these 2 months of eating well, climbing three times a week and doing some cardio to get more-or-less back to where i was. So take heart; six weeks is a short layoff; use it as a chance to rest your body.
In reply to Mick Ward:
Mick,
please dont give him too much sympathy..he's got to be strong as he is my leader for "team cripples" as we are going to kalymnos in a few weeks, and dont want him to be sharing my opiates.
He was very lucky..and his helmet saved his life, but just remind him that carrying a rope and clips to the crag will make him strong again!!
Hope you are keeping well and enjoying life?
Cheers
Nick B
Mick,
please dont give him too much sympathy..he's got to be strong as he is my leader for "team cripples" as we are going to kalymnos in a few weeks, and dont want him to be sharing my opiates.
He was very lucky..and his helmet saved his life, but just remind him that carrying a rope and clips to the crag will make him strong again!!
Hope you are keeping well and enjoying life?
Cheers
Nick B
In reply to astley007:
Hi Nick,
I reckon getting off to Kaly will do both of you the power of good. Fun in the sun... enjoy it all.
Mick
Hi Nick,
I reckon getting off to Kaly will do both of you the power of good. Fun in the sun... enjoy it all.
Mick
In reply to astley007:
Nick I'm not taking a rope! Think there will be plenty of rope boys and girls.........
Cheers
Chris
Nick I'm not taking a rope! Think there will be plenty of rope boys and girls.........
Cheers
Chris
In reply to Jycalv95:
I had a climbing accident on Boxing Day, not climbed since, and don't expect to be able to climb again.
The biggest issue was enforced immobility for around three months, which basically shot my fitness to zero. Getting fit again even for walking and cycling is a struggle, (though I am 65 you know) I'm still very weak.
Doctors tell me it takes 6 times longer to regain fitness as it takes to lose it.
So, my advice is to keep working everything that you can, walk, run, cycle, climb one handed, and anything else you can do one handed
I had a climbing accident on Boxing Day, not climbed since, and don't expect to be able to climb again.
The biggest issue was enforced immobility for around three months, which basically shot my fitness to zero. Getting fit again even for walking and cycling is a struggle, (though I am 65 you know) I'm still very weak.
Doctors tell me it takes 6 times longer to regain fitness as it takes to lose it.
So, my advice is to keep working everything that you can, walk, run, cycle, climb one handed, and anything else you can do one handed
Post edited at 16:57
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In reply to Jycalv95:
Lots of core work / stretches / push-ups / ring work. Things like that can make a massive difference to your climbing, help avoid injuries, let any niggles heal etc.
6 weeks isn't long really - if you kept up with the above and started to introduce easy climbing as you repair then I doubt you'll notice any ill effects .
Lots of core work / stretches / push-ups / ring work. Things like that can make a massive difference to your climbing, help avoid injuries, let any niggles heal etc.
6 weeks isn't long really - if you kept up with the above and started to introduce easy climbing as you repair then I doubt you'll notice any ill effects .
In reply to Jycalv95:
I'm currently on the mend from a hernia operation, same as you no climbing for 6 weeks ish. Bad news the weeks drag on by!!
Good luck with it
I'm currently on the mend from a hernia operation, same as you no climbing for 6 weeks ish. Bad news the weeks drag on by!!
Good luck with it
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