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PRODUCT NEWS: BMC Lancashire Rock IN STOCK NOW

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 UKC Gear 02 Sep 2016
BMC Lancashire Rock, in stock and two smoking barrels, 4 kbThis season's hottest news for climbers in the north-west is the release of the latest BMC definitive guidebook, Lancashire Rock. This new volume to all the routes in the Red Rose county shines its light into the deepest quarries, most esoteric edges and highest moors to give local climbers a galaxy of stars and a lifetime of pump. Prepare to be amazed.


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 Mark Collins 02 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Gear:

Fantastic effort, much appreciated Very much hoping to see routes logged on here that are outside Western Grit, thanks to this. The increased traffic will hopefully help reduce the amount of crag maintenance required currently.
 Offwidth 02 Sep 2016
In reply to Mark Collins:

Wilton Fest on Saturday links up with the Lancs guidebook launch and I'm sure there is a deal on for the new guide (alongside all the other festivities and raffle prizes) but someone in the BMC will need to provide details.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/wiltonfest-16
 TobyA 02 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Gear:

"The new guidebook is the result of years of effort by the most committed of local climbers and is set to do for climbing in the county what Howard Carter did for King Tutankhamun."

Didn't turn out so well for him though did it?! Watch out Grimer and co - the curse of the Lancastrians may now be upon you, where you are condemned for ever more to climb in veg filled disintegrating quarries, surrounded by shopping trollies, dumped building waste and dead sheep - at least that's my memories of Pack Horse Quarry.
 Lemony 02 Sep 2016
In reply to TobyA:
> the curse of the Lancastrians

You mean "Being from Lancashire"?
Post edited at 15:36
 Team BMC 02 Sep 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

Lancs Rock will be on sale for £20, and all other guidebooks will be discounted. See you there!
 Offwidth 03 Sep 2016
In reply to Team BMC:

Cheers
In reply to UKC Gear:

"Maybe beauty is the wrong word....."!

Maybe!

jcm
 Offwidth 04 Sep 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

There was a different beauty to the enthusiasm of a couple of hundred folk turning up to Wliton Quarry in the rain. I looked at some climbs and some brave souls even climbed some and a sneaky dry bouldering trip was led by a slight bemused bouldering guide author. The craic was as good as I've seen and a Mark Leech slideshow is always good value. The Lancs guidebooks they took to the event sold out!
 C Witter 05 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Gear:
Anyone got this, yet? What do you think?

I remember Perrin quotes Menlove Edwards, in his biography, as having said of one of Kirkus's guides something along the lines of: "obviously it's great, fantastic, hard work, etc. But...!" He then goes on to criticise it at length.

I feel similarly about this guide. Fantastically useful, so much hard (unpaid) work that's gone into it, and to see Lancs in colour is very energising. Nonetheless, much of the book cannibalises the last guide (words, descriptions, grades, etc.). I don't know a lot of Lancashire crags, but those I do know I know well. As such, it's amazing when this guide occasionally locates a new route, and those routes that have grade changes are already being hotly debated, but seem judicious (e.g. Jomo at Trowbarrow going up from VDiff to Severe; the scantily protected Nullarbor at Warton going up from VS to HVS). Nonetheless, I feel that where there were errors and oddities of the last guide, these have often merely been reproduced in this guide. Sometimes, routes are missed off the photo topos, and you're left wondering: "did they leave it off because, like me, they weren't sure where the buggering line is meant to be?" Other times, an inaccurate or idiosyncratic grade is retained (e.g. there's a Diff at Fairy Steps that's worth at least 4a; and can the grade "S 4c" really exist?). Of course, grading will always be a matter for debate, and at least it's not as bad as, e.g., the Langdale Boulders, where everything's been given V0, as though the guide book writers were anxious to be getting to the pub...

Having said this, another odd pleasure of the new guide is seeing a line that matches that you've been climbing, despite the occasional ambiguities of the last guide!

Would be interesting to hear others' thoughts. I'm sure the guide has sparked many debates...!

p.s. Also, so sick of NW stereotypes being used to sell the book - no doubt by a bunch of Southerners... They're a hair's breadth away from saying, "Yes, it does always rain! But, cor, don't the grim North put hairs on your chest!"
CW
Post edited at 14:18
 Simon Caldwell 05 Sep 2016
In reply to C Witter:

> can the grade "S 4c" really exist?

the answer is the same as to the question can the grade "HVS 5c" really exist?
 C Witter 05 Sep 2016
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Actually, I see your point.
Post edited at 14:14
In reply to Offwidth: Which Wilton Quarry in the rain was this? A couple of hundred seems slightly generous - rather like the cut of your trousers.

Actually, have you done GCT in Cheedale? Would you like to?

Snogs

 cathsullivan 05 Sep 2016
In reply to C Witter:

> Anyone got this, yet? What do you think?

I have, and I think it's very well done. It even nearly made me want to go to Egerton again, until I remembered the last time I was there. Whilst attempting the last route of the night, I was engulfed in a big cloud of noxious fumes coming off a bonfire that some local youths had piled up with various bits of plastic. I recall suggesting to my companion that if I ever stated the intention to go there again, they should hit me with something big enough to incapacitate me. But still, I often end up feeling nostalgic for the quarries and there are some really good routes there. The new guide shows most of the crags at their best so maybe it's too good in that sense - it might mean that people who are newly inspired find that things at some of the venues are not quite as they expected!
 robin mueller 06 Sep 2016
In reply to Frank the Husky:
> Which Wilton Quarry in the rain was this? A couple of hundred seems slightly generous - rather like the cut of your trousers.

Judging by the number of guidebooks they shifted, that number probably isn't too far off the mark, even if many people only popped in for half an hour.
Post edited at 00:16
 robin mueller 06 Sep 2016
In reply to cathsullivan:

> I have, and I think it's very well done. It even nearly made me want to go to Egerton again, until I remembered the last time I was there.

There's been a massive cleaning effort at Egerton this year. Trees chopped, paths improved, whole buttresses gardened. Really quite impressive. If ever this crag was in good nick, it's now. Probably got a couple of months before winter dampness sets in, and of course next year the greenery will return...
 Offwidth 06 Sep 2016
In reply to Frank the Husky:

I'd lay good odds my guess was close. As Robin said a lot of people popped in and you came late to the party. My trousers were tightish cut but stretch fabric Rab things.... learn to observe my boy

Still not done CTG and yes would like to one day but work and Font will take me out of circulation for the next month.
In reply to robin mueller:

Fair enough boss, you were there. Who was that guy who bought a van load of them? He's obviously a big fan of the book.
 cathsullivan 06 Sep 2016
In reply to robin mueller:

>... If ever this crag was in good nick, it's now. ...

My resolve is weakening but I reckon it'd end in tears.

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