In reply to johncook:
Loose top... lower grade routes a bit awkward?
In reply to Mark Grist
I mentioned the big low angle slab on The Sheep on Burb S boulders earlier... just realised I meant the Whale.... copied the text here:
The problems are described left to right from the left arete of the big easy slab:
U2 2b The short left arete.
U4 3a* The slab left of the crack.
U0 2a The crack, which is also the most secure descent.
U4 2c** The slab right of the crack on good holds.
U8 4b* The middle of the slab has a hard start; good holds on the left and right are out of bounds.
U8 4a** Just right, climb the slab under the line of small flakes.
U9 4c* Climb the slab between the line of flakes and the arete without using either.
81z Whale Rib Indirect U7 4b**
The arete from a hard start on the left to avoid the initial bulge.