In reply to stp:
> I always thought the Indian Face was a massive kick in the teeth for him, both by JD and possibly the climbing community in general.
I'm not sure I agree with this.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but JR started his attempts on the line in 83', JD finally did IF in 86'. That's a 3 year period. Breaking his scaphoid bone during this period obviously didn't help JR, but are you saying JD (or anyone else) should have left the line indefinitely for JR, until he either succeeded or walked away? Or, that JD and any other suitors should have adhered to JR's ground up ethic?
Let's make a comparison here.
In the 60's, Joe Brown made several attempts and was the number one suitor for Great Wall. He had a personal ethic of no more than 2 pegs per pitch (GW was seen as a single pitch route back then) and eventually realised he would need more than 2 to succeed. So rather than change his ethical stance, he walked away. Along comes Pete Crew with a different ethical approach, uses more pegs and aid than Brown was prepared too, and bags the first ascent.
Did Crew steal the first ascent by using the tactics he used - general consensus at the time was that a number of climbers, including Brown, were more than capable of climbing the route using the same style as Crew - or did he play the game to his advantage to bag the prize? Many first ascents have been the result of this kind of ruthless aproach of ends justifies the means.
Fast forward 25 years and we have a similar situation with IF.
The difference is, Brown accepted the situation on GW, and just got on with his life and other routes, whereas JR behaved rather like a petulant child - the bolt, the painting, the 'snapped' flake - followed by 30 years of whingeing and whining.
It seems a shame that one of the most brilliant - possibly even genius - climbers this country has ever produced, with a legacy of stunningly hard bold routes of imense character, still doesn't seem to be able to move on from one route.
Post edited at 12:45