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My son is planning first trip to Font. There seem to be quite a few English language guidebooks available. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc
(unless he is really good, in which case one of the other guidebooks might be more targeted, or really antisocial, in which case Top Secret is probably good as it avoids the places everyone else is because they have Fun Bloc!).
I think it has more problems in than any other guidebook (except possibly Top Secret) although in limited detail - if planning a trip to tick off 7s and 8s then 'Font 7s and 8s' or whatever it is called is probably better.
Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc
(unless he is really good, in which case one of the other guidebooks might be more targeted, or really antisocial, in which case Top Secret is probably good as it avoids the places everyone else is because they have Fun Bloc!).
I think it has more problems in than any other guidebook (except possibly Top Secret) although in limited detail - if planning a trip to tick off 7s and 8s then 'Font 7s and 8s' or whatever it is called is probably better.
Post edited at 00:27
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In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
If you want to do easy circuits try to get a book as up to date as possible. Went on my first trip to font after a 6 or 7 year break and many of the circuits have been repainted in that time. On the other hand if you're doing easy circuits you probably don't really need a guide but a map would be better used to park and just hop on the yellow/orange/blue at every crag... this is what we ended up doing. Not keen on jingo wobbly guides myself... expensive and found them of little use.
If you want to do easy circuits try to get a book as up to date as possible. Went on my first trip to font after a 6 or 7 year break and many of the circuits have been repainted in that time. On the other hand if you're doing easy circuits you probably don't really need a guide but a map would be better used to park and just hop on the yellow/orange/blue at every crag... this is what we ended up doing. Not keen on jingo wobbly guides myself... expensive and found them of little use.
In reply to JIMBO:
Fun Bloc was still mostly up to date last year? but for the first time I did hit a few circuits that had changed (Roche aux Sabots orange circuit was either new/gone, can't remember which). Top Secret is brand newish.
Fun Bloc was still mostly up to date last year? but for the first time I did hit a few circuits that had changed (Roche aux Sabots orange circuit was either new/gone, can't remember which). Top Secret is brand newish.
Post edited at 14:11
In reply to andrewmcleod:
Jingo Wobbly is more up to date than the new white guide and once you can decode the symbols it gives a much better indication of what to expect. What suprised me on my first visits is how hard some of the easier circuits are... even the easiest yellow has sections where you need to be confident soloing precarious VDiff moves at 3-4m and most orange circuits have crux problems that would be solid outdoor f5 in the UK. Some circuits are very high, especially the mauve Damme Jouanne (expect UK 5a moves at 5m above a bad landing). Hence, if in doubt, start on kids white circuits. The grades are often terrible on easier circuits... some font 2c slab problems I've climbed have been font 5 in UK terms (some locals might say this is due to lack of skill but that is just complete nonsense.. they are polished to a sheen and desperate). I've failed to work some super polished font 3 slabs (in reality UK tech 6b smearing).
An OK starter yellow is the facile graded yellow circuit at Butier Piscine (28 problems...reasonably easy to follow).... look for signs to the piscine (swimming pool) from the parking and keep an eye open for the little tower folly on the rocks.... the circuit is not shown in many guides so it's not too polished and only a handful of problems are high (notably the last two) and its easy to 'spot' boulderers on ascent and descent (a few have bum slides down to short drops). Take a beer mat or small towel to keep those shoes squeeky clean so it doesn't get trashed like the more popular yellow circuits. The hardest problems, are probably just into font 3 in UK outdoor terms (UK tech 4a ish).. with the last two being highball font 2/2+.
Jingo Wobbly is more up to date than the new white guide and once you can decode the symbols it gives a much better indication of what to expect. What suprised me on my first visits is how hard some of the easier circuits are... even the easiest yellow has sections where you need to be confident soloing precarious VDiff moves at 3-4m and most orange circuits have crux problems that would be solid outdoor f5 in the UK. Some circuits are very high, especially the mauve Damme Jouanne (expect UK 5a moves at 5m above a bad landing). Hence, if in doubt, start on kids white circuits. The grades are often terrible on easier circuits... some font 2c slab problems I've climbed have been font 5 in UK terms (some locals might say this is due to lack of skill but that is just complete nonsense.. they are polished to a sheen and desperate). I've failed to work some super polished font 3 slabs (in reality UK tech 6b smearing).
An OK starter yellow is the facile graded yellow circuit at Butier Piscine (28 problems...reasonably easy to follow).... look for signs to the piscine (swimming pool) from the parking and keep an eye open for the little tower folly on the rocks.... the circuit is not shown in many guides so it's not too polished and only a handful of problems are high (notably the last two) and its easy to 'spot' boulderers on ascent and descent (a few have bum slides down to short drops). Take a beer mat or small towel to keep those shoes squeeky clean so it doesn't get trashed like the more popular yellow circuits. The hardest problems, are probably just into font 3 in UK outdoor terms (UK tech 4a ish).. with the last two being highball font 2/2+.
Post edited at 16:48
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In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
I don't think it's possible to answer this question properly without knowing how hard Steve's lad is climbing. What sort of grade is he operating at, Steve? Bearing in mind that in a week long trip he's unlikely to operate at his limit day in day out and might want to spend some time operating a few grades below his absolute limit.
I don't think it's possible to answer this question properly without knowing how hard Steve's lad is climbing. What sort of grade is he operating at, Steve? Bearing in mind that in a week long trip he's unlikely to operate at his limit day in day out and might want to spend some time operating a few grades below his absolute limit.
In reply to Will Hunt:
I sometimes use a short rope and body belay if I'm with someone less than confident, otherwise I just skip the higher problems. The kids white circuits are often lovely but even they can get a bit high at times (eg Beauvais Rocher du Duc East)
I sometimes use a short rope and body belay if I'm with someone less than confident, otherwise I just skip the higher problems. The kids white circuits are often lovely but even they can get a bit high at times (eg Beauvais Rocher du Duc East)
Post edited at 16:53
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
Just come back from A trip to Font. Although we took a number of guides, the one we used every day was Fontainbleau Climbs by Jacky Godoffe. Some black circuits, but mostly up to red. A good coverage of the forest and is up to dat with re-numbering. Nice and compact.
The jingo wobbly guides are just trying too hard, visually messy, and hundreds of photos of boulders !?
Real bloatware in your bouldering bag and just not elegant to use. Actually the text in other guides is both informative and entertaining.
Just come back from A trip to Font. Although we took a number of guides, the one we used every day was Fontainbleau Climbs by Jacky Godoffe. Some black circuits, but mostly up to red. A good coverage of the forest and is up to dat with re-numbering. Nice and compact.
The jingo wobbly guides are just trying too hard, visually messy, and hundreds of photos of boulders !?
Real bloatware in your bouldering bag and just not elegant to use. Actually the text in other guides is both informative and entertaining.
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In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
You presumably mean the white guide by Jo, Francoise and Jacky? Its a nice book, trouble is several of the easier circuits have been repainted and in my view the purple guide it replaced was better mix for new lower grade boulderers (eg Beauvais white removed) and if you are dlimbing reds and harder the problem bracket guides work better.
You presumably mean the white guide by Jo, Francoise and Jacky? Its a nice book, trouble is several of the easier circuits have been repainted and in my view the purple guide it replaced was better mix for new lower grade boulderers (eg Beauvais white removed) and if you are dlimbing reds and harder the problem bracket guides work better.
In reply to Offwidth:
Yes, that's the one, found it to be great for what we were up to. Maybe we got lucky. Mind you, as in the past we found that once we found the bloc de depart, following the circuit was pretty obvious via dots and arrows. Lucky again I guess?
BTW this was my first visit to the forest for 30 years, and expected to find the place trashed, but instead found it to be in lovely condition, guess I got lucky there too?
> You presumably mean the white guide by Jo, Francoise and Jacky? Its a nice book, trouble is several of the easier circuits have been repainted and in my view the purple guide it replaced was better mix for new lower grade boulderers (eg Beauvais white removed) and if you are dlimbing reds and harder the problem bracket guides work better.
Yes, that's the one, found it to be great for what we were up to. Maybe we got lucky. Mind you, as in the past we found that once we found the bloc de depart, following the circuit was pretty obvious via dots and arrows. Lucky again I guess?
BTW this was my first visit to the forest for 30 years, and expected to find the place trashed, but instead found it to be in lovely condition, guess I got lucky there too?
In reply to Offwidth:
I was thinking more that if Steve's son, of unknown age, has been climbing since he was an egg, then he may well want to skip to the 7+8s book!
I'm surprised to see the Jingo Wobbly guide so venerated as I've never heard anybody say anything positive about it before. When I've been in the forest it's been universally referred to as the book of lies!
Personally, I find the easiest way to navigate the forest is to use the circuits and climb them (certainly not a bad way to go on a first trip), or if you're looking for specific problems, then find them in the 5+6s or 7+8s (or on bleau.info) which will give you an idea of what numbered circuit problem they're near, then use the circuits book to navigate to that location.
I was thinking more that if Steve's son, of unknown age, has been climbing since he was an egg, then he may well want to skip to the 7+8s book!
I'm surprised to see the Jingo Wobbly guide so venerated as I've never heard anybody say anything positive about it before. When I've been in the forest it's been universally referred to as the book of lies!
Personally, I find the easiest way to navigate the forest is to use the circuits and climb them (certainly not a bad way to go on a first trip), or if you're looking for specific problems, then find them in the 5+6s or 7+8s (or on bleau.info) which will give you an idea of what numbered circuit problem they're near, then use the circuits book to navigate to that location.
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In reply to Will Hunt:
I think there is something odd going on to accuse it of lies. Not only is it reasonably accurate on the stuff I mainly do (loads of yellow to blue circuits) it is easier to find circuits (the overview maps in the white and purple guides are a bit small and too low a scale despite excellent circuit topos) and it has also tried to deal with some of the worst sandbags that the locals insist on perpetuating .... I m looking at the accuracy from the bottom end of the grades (low grade font grading is a nightmare and the white and purple sold themselves as beginner's guides.. also the good practice advice should have been clearer up front.. access issues threaten climbing and when the guidebooks are low key its not helpful ).
I think there is something odd going on to accuse it of lies. Not only is it reasonably accurate on the stuff I mainly do (loads of yellow to blue circuits) it is easier to find circuits (the overview maps in the white and purple guides are a bit small and too low a scale despite excellent circuit topos) and it has also tried to deal with some of the worst sandbags that the locals insist on perpetuating .... I m looking at the accuracy from the bottom end of the grades (low grade font grading is a nightmare and the white and purple sold themselves as beginner's guides.. also the good practice advice should have been clearer up front.. access issues threaten climbing and when the guidebooks are low key its not helpful ).
Post edited at 09:43
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
None of them are perfect but it doesn't really matter. the purple/white will get you to the areas and quite often to the start of circuits. 5+6/7+8 will identify the cream of the (mid-upper grade) crop and have the best maps, Font a Bloc's a bit pointless, Off Piste's got good maps but is pretty confusing, the stone country guide puts Rocher Fin in the wrong place but is otherwise pretty good at getting you to the problems, the times I've used Jingo Wobbly I've come away agreeing with Will rather than the rest of the thread.
I'm sure there are others that escape my memory.
I'd buy the purple/white and 5+6 or 7+8 if you want more of a ticklist and I'd download the google map of the area before you go and star the parking spots.
None of them are perfect but it doesn't really matter. the purple/white will get you to the areas and quite often to the start of circuits. 5+6/7+8 will identify the cream of the (mid-upper grade) crop and have the best maps, Font a Bloc's a bit pointless, Off Piste's got good maps but is pretty confusing, the stone country guide puts Rocher Fin in the wrong place but is otherwise pretty good at getting you to the problems, the times I've used Jingo Wobbly I've come away agreeing with Will rather than the rest of the thread.
I'm sure there are others that escape my memory.
I'd buy the purple/white and 5+6 or 7+8 if you want more of a ticklist and I'd download the google map of the area before you go and star the parking spots.
Post edited at 10:10
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
My favourite font guide is the little Stone Country one. Gives a great introduction and is all about the character. At first all you need is springboard to go exploring the forest, and this does it perfectly.
Agree with the Jingo Wobbly 'bloatware' description; if you're after a guide to tick individual problems then the 5+6/ 7+8 are the ones to go for, zero character bar the photos though.
My favourite font guide is the little Stone Country one. Gives a great introduction and is all about the character. At first all you need is springboard to go exploring the forest, and this does it perfectly.
Agree with the Jingo Wobbly 'bloatware' description; if you're after a guide to tick individual problems then the 5+6/ 7+8 are the ones to go for, zero character bar the photos though.
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In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
This is the circuits guide I'm on about.
http://image.bokus.com/images2/9781594857706_200x_fontainebleau-climbs-a-gu...
Last time we went we had a whole plethora of books and this one, for me, was the best bet for getting to the parking, finding the crag, and finding your way to a particular numbered circuit problem.
From there we used the 7+8s or the description from bleau.info (it normally shows you a picture of the problem and the accompanying text will say "to the right of blue 32" which is enough to get you there) to find a particular problem we were interested in.
Just to be clear on why this method worked for us. The 5+6s and 7+8s books are great, but finding your way around a boulder field can be difficult if you can't identify where you are on the plan to begin with. These books mark on selected circuits on their topos and you kind of need to use these to get an idea of where you are on the plan.
As for Font sandbags, in my limited experience of climbing there, I honestly can't think I've climbed any (I'm sure I must be wrong, I'll try and think of some). Things seem fairly graded, but Font is a very popular destination for people who are relatively new to bouldering and may only have climbed indoors, or else are lacking in technique. If this is the case, you're likely to get shut down.
This is the circuits guide I'm on about.
http://image.bokus.com/images2/9781594857706_200x_fontainebleau-climbs-a-gu...
Last time we went we had a whole plethora of books and this one, for me, was the best bet for getting to the parking, finding the crag, and finding your way to a particular numbered circuit problem.
From there we used the 7+8s or the description from bleau.info (it normally shows you a picture of the problem and the accompanying text will say "to the right of blue 32" which is enough to get you there) to find a particular problem we were interested in.
Just to be clear on why this method worked for us. The 5+6s and 7+8s books are great, but finding your way around a boulder field can be difficult if you can't identify where you are on the plan to begin with. These books mark on selected circuits on their topos and you kind of need to use these to get an idea of where you are on the plan.
As for Font sandbags, in my limited experience of climbing there, I honestly can't think I've climbed any (I'm sure I must be wrong, I'll try and think of some). Things seem fairly graded, but Font is a very popular destination for people who are relatively new to bouldering and may only have climbed indoors, or else are lacking in technique. If this is the case, you're likely to get shut down.
Post edited at 10:36
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
If he climbs in the 5s and 6s, then 5+6 would be my top choice as it's comprehensive, the maps are well drawn and directions easy to follow. Only downside is it's in two books (basically Fontainebleau forest + Larchant and Trois Pignons + some Essonne areas). If he climbs harder than that then 7+8 is a no brainer. Also consider Sept à + but I find the landscape format much clearer than the portrait format.
Any guidebook centred around circuits will be partly outdated since there has been a number of changes recently, especially in the Trois Pignons but also Rocher Saint Germain. Au Grès des Trois Pignons is the only guidebook up to date for the Trois Pignons.
>some font 2c slab problems I've climbed have been font 5 in UK terms (some locals might say this is due to lack of skill but that is just complete nonsense.. they are polished to a sheen and desperate)
Couldn't it just be that UK grades are way overgraded? I mean, the Font scale comes from... Font, so the point of reference should be Font, not vice versa
If he climbs in the 5s and 6s, then 5+6 would be my top choice as it's comprehensive, the maps are well drawn and directions easy to follow. Only downside is it's in two books (basically Fontainebleau forest + Larchant and Trois Pignons + some Essonne areas). If he climbs harder than that then 7+8 is a no brainer. Also consider Sept à + but I find the landscape format much clearer than the portrait format.
Any guidebook centred around circuits will be partly outdated since there has been a number of changes recently, especially in the Trois Pignons but also Rocher Saint Germain. Au Grès des Trois Pignons is the only guidebook up to date for the Trois Pignons.
>some font 2c slab problems I've climbed have been font 5 in UK terms (some locals might say this is due to lack of skill but that is just complete nonsense.. they are polished to a sheen and desperate)
Couldn't it just be that UK grades are way overgraded? I mean, the Font scale comes from... Font, so the point of reference should be Font, not vice versa
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In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
OK. I've soul searched and I can think of a few sandbags. There were a couple of reds at the start of the circuit in Roche aux Sabots, and there was a hideously polished slab on the blue circuit at Rocher Fin. The reason these don't stick in the mind is that we didn't allow ourselves to get too drawn into them and mope about them. In the case of the blue, we just did it, albeit after more tries than would be normal on a blue problem. In the case of the reds we simply walked away after a couple of goes, and lo, there was a whole forest full of beautiful problems which felt just right at the grade.
OK. I've soul searched and I can think of a few sandbags. There were a couple of reds at the start of the circuit in Roche aux Sabots, and there was a hideously polished slab on the blue circuit at Rocher Fin. The reason these don't stick in the mind is that we didn't allow ourselves to get too drawn into them and mope about them. In the case of the blue, we just did it, albeit after more tries than would be normal on a blue problem. In the case of the reds we simply walked away after a couple of goes, and lo, there was a whole forest full of beautiful problems which felt just right at the grade.
In reply to Adrien:
Its often said to be that but its not....I'm experienced enough on varieties of sanstone into the low 6s (including font) to know the difference. Hardly anyone pays any serious attention to the numbers given on problems in easier circuits; which is good because they are rubbish. Most of it is down to polish, evidenced by the fact the quiet areas have easier and much more consistent grading (and caused by a failure of too many boulderers to keep their feet clean). Ever since I've climbed in Font it's been common knowledge that you have to get to font 6 before the grades start to make sense. As for the colours: you get what you would expect, once used to the system, taking the popularity (polish) into account, and this means getting on with the climbing movement at a desired difficulty is what most people get out of a circuit. The colour has become a grade range (different to the range of numbers the problems are labelled with).
Its often said to be that but its not....I'm experienced enough on varieties of sanstone into the low 6s (including font) to know the difference. Hardly anyone pays any serious attention to the numbers given on problems in easier circuits; which is good because they are rubbish. Most of it is down to polish, evidenced by the fact the quiet areas have easier and much more consistent grading (and caused by a failure of too many boulderers to keep their feet clean). Ever since I've climbed in Font it's been common knowledge that you have to get to font 6 before the grades start to make sense. As for the colours: you get what you would expect, once used to the system, taking the popularity (polish) into account, and this means getting on with the climbing movement at a desired difficulty is what most people get out of a circuit. The colour has become a grade range (different to the range of numbers the problems are labelled with).
In reply to Offwidth:
Agree with all that.
I think the Jingo Wobbly 'book of lies' comments stem from the fact that it has a few overgraded soft touches in it. 7+8s is more accurate and overall the better guide for 7A upwards.
You need a wifi connection so you can watch videos for evening inspiration though...
Agree with all that.
I think the Jingo Wobbly 'book of lies' comments stem from the fact that it has a few overgraded soft touches in it. 7+8s is more accurate and overall the better guide for 7A upwards.
You need a wifi connection so you can watch videos for evening inspiration though...
Post edited at 18:00
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
The point of Fun Bloc is that there is over 100 circuits and 7000 problems, with 1400+ photo topos. My understanding is that nothing else comes close to the quantity (except Top Secret, of course, which is Volume 2). It is not intended to give in-depth details on any given problem. At my (low) grade and usual bouldering style (at least 100 problems per Font trip) it is ideal. If you are only planning to do less than 10 problems on your Font trip then it is obviously not the most appropriate guide! But for me the glory of Font is that problems are endless, and you never run out of stuff.
The point of Fun Bloc is that there is over 100 circuits and 7000 problems, with 1400+ photo topos. My understanding is that nothing else comes close to the quantity (except Top Secret, of course, which is Volume 2). It is not intended to give in-depth details on any given problem. At my (low) grade and usual bouldering style (at least 100 problems per Font trip) it is ideal. If you are only planning to do less than 10 problems on your Font trip then it is obviously not the most appropriate guide! But for me the glory of Font is that problems are endless, and you never run out of stuff.
Post edited at 19:11
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
Thanks so much to all of you. Such a great community on here. My son is 20 and been climbing (apart from odd occasions) for a year. Leads HVS, 6b/c sport, V5/6 boulders. I shall link him into this. Thanks again,
Thanks so much to all of you. Such a great community on here. My son is 20 and been climbing (apart from odd occasions) for a year. Leads HVS, 6b/c sport, V5/6 boulders. I shall link him into this. Thanks again,
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
I have always found the Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc guide the best for actually finding where I am and where I want to be. Then 7+8s for a more accurate guide in the 7s which is mainly what I climb in Font (or try at least).
2 guides combined work brilliantly I think.
I have always found the Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc guide the best for actually finding where I am and where I want to be. Then 7+8s for a more accurate guide in the 7s which is mainly what I climb in Font (or try at least).
2 guides combined work brilliantly I think.
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In reply to kermit_uk:
+1 for the Stone Country 'essential fontainebleau' guide. Compact, easy to nav maps for all major areas, deets of main circuits avail at each area AND snaps of the 'must do' problems at each area. Such an overwhelming amount to go at in font but I found this guide condensed everything really very well & allowed me an at a glance overview of th main crags & a good idea of th flavour n style of each area. Was climbing the same grades as your son on first visit. A simple concise and great guide
+1 for the Stone Country 'essential fontainebleau' guide. Compact, easy to nav maps for all major areas, deets of main circuits avail at each area AND snaps of the 'must do' problems at each area. Such an overwhelming amount to go at in font but I found this guide condensed everything really very well & allowed me an at a glance overview of th main crags & a good idea of th flavour n style of each area. Was climbing the same grades as your son on first visit. A simple concise and great guide
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
With that information, Steve, my recommendation would be the circuits book (I linked to the cover image above) and the 5+6s book. Circuits for easier stuff. 5+6s for particular problems he might be psyched for. A week's Font trip is (obviously personal preference depending) partly about enjoying a high volume of good quality easier problems, and partly about pushing yourself on a lower volume of trickier things. It sounds like that might be what he's keen for if he's operating at those grades?
Deciding the crag on where you think conditions will be best (the higher, open crags out of the trees like Apremont and Cul de Chien are ovens on warm days and conditions will be terrible), then looking on Bleau.info for psyche material (and beta!), then using the guides mentioned above to find what you're looking for is a good way to go. If he's looking to try stuff that he'll find tricky, then having a number of potential problems to try at a particular venue will pay dividends. If you turn up and the thing you were thinking of trying is bemobbed with people, or in the full sun etc, you can just find something else on the hit list. Tactics tactics tactics! Look after your skin, know when to walk away from a problem, know when to have a rest day! That's how you will eke a week's bouldering out of a human body that isn't Alex Megos!
Or of course he do what we all do on our first time in Font and run out the car like a dog with two dicks and get on every problem he comes across! It's all good.
With that information, Steve, my recommendation would be the circuits book (I linked to the cover image above) and the 5+6s book. Circuits for easier stuff. 5+6s for particular problems he might be psyched for. A week's Font trip is (obviously personal preference depending) partly about enjoying a high volume of good quality easier problems, and partly about pushing yourself on a lower volume of trickier things. It sounds like that might be what he's keen for if he's operating at those grades?
Deciding the crag on where you think conditions will be best (the higher, open crags out of the trees like Apremont and Cul de Chien are ovens on warm days and conditions will be terrible), then looking on Bleau.info for psyche material (and beta!), then using the guides mentioned above to find what you're looking for is a good way to go. If he's looking to try stuff that he'll find tricky, then having a number of potential problems to try at a particular venue will pay dividends. If you turn up and the thing you were thinking of trying is bemobbed with people, or in the full sun etc, you can just find something else on the hit list. Tactics tactics tactics! Look after your skin, know when to walk away from a problem, know when to have a rest day! That's how you will eke a week's bouldering out of a human body that isn't Alex Megos!
Or of course he do what we all do on our first time in Font and run out the car like a dog with two dicks and get on every problem he comes across! It's all good.
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In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
Re Fun Bloc - bumped into the author by chance last week and he showed us a copy of an updated version of Fun Bloc, which includes a few more areas, plus up to date maps/topos for areas that have been revised since the original (2012) version, and a few other nice changes. It isn't out online yet, although I think he had dropped copies off at La Musardiere and a few other place whilst he was there if you want to try to pick up a copy over there.
Re Fun Bloc - bumped into the author by chance last week and he showed us a copy of an updated version of Fun Bloc, which includes a few more areas, plus up to date maps/topos for areas that have been revised since the original (2012) version, and a few other nice changes. It isn't out online yet, although I think he had dropped copies off at La Musardiere and a few other place whilst he was there if you want to try to pick up a copy over there.
In reply to AndyPagett:
Cheers, I'm out here at the moment and left my 1st ed copy at home. Karma I guess for defending it for its better maps its more sensible approach to grading at the easier end and including more detail on the most popular circuits. On the subject of 'lies' I hope what Si dH says isnt true as it makes the boulderers involved look like petty bullies. It is odd how regular sandbag misgrades on orange and yellow circuits (usually a few slab problems on any polished circuit will be as much as two whole font number bands out) are regarded as irrelevant but slight under-grades for serious punters (who by definition are more capable of dealing with bad grades, especially given independent online resources like bleau.info) are highly important.
Cheers, I'm out here at the moment and left my 1st ed copy at home. Karma I guess for defending it for its better maps its more sensible approach to grading at the easier end and including more detail on the most popular circuits. On the subject of 'lies' I hope what Si dH says isnt true as it makes the boulderers involved look like petty bullies. It is odd how regular sandbag misgrades on orange and yellow circuits (usually a few slab problems on any polished circuit will be as much as two whole font number bands out) are regarded as irrelevant but slight under-grades for serious punters (who by definition are more capable of dealing with bad grades, especially given independent online resources like bleau.info) are highly important.
Post edited at 10:15
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