/ NEWS: Kilian Jornet abandons Everest Attempt

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UKC News - on 16 Sep 2016
Everest North Face reflected in the lake below base camp. , 4 kbSpanish mountain runner Kilian Jornet and his team have abandoned a speed record attempt on Everest's North face due to poor weather conditions. Kilian's goal was to climb the world's highest mountain as the culmination of his Summits of my Life project, in which he is attempting to set ascent and descent records for some of the world's most iconic mountains.

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tony on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

The attached video of his descent from the Matterhorn is terrifying!
Fergal - on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Choosing post monsoon to attempt this seemed a little optimistic, lots of wading, trail breaking, alone at 8000m, after jogging up from the Rongbuk seemed bonkers. The North face is a tad more serious than everyone of those previous records, the voi normales of Denali and Aconcagua are hardly preparation for a solo mission up the Hornbien couloir! glad to hear that common sense prevailed.
zimpara - on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to tony:

Wow he was ripping down!
Epsilon - on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

A climbing website really shouldn't be referring to Denali as McKinley.
In reply to Fergal:
> Choosing post monsoon to attempt this seemed a little optimistic, lots of wading, trail breaking, alone at 8000m, after jogging up from the Rongbuk seemed bonkers. The North face is a tad more serious than everyone of those previous records, the voi normales of Denali and Aconcagua are hardly preparation for a solo mission up the Hornbien couloir! glad to hear that common sense prevailed.

I got the impression that he didn't want to be there with hordes of other people. Not a problem getting past people on Aconcagua or Denali, but it would be getting up to the North Col.
Post edited at 17:28
TobyA on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to Epsilon:

> A climbing website really shouldn't be referring to Denali as McKinley.

Yep, although having said that very few of us (me included) remember to call Arapiles, Djurite - as it should be really.
Robert Durran - on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to TobyA:

> Yep, although having said that very few of us (me included) remember to call Arapiles, Djurite - as it should be really.

Or indeed Snowdon by its Welsh name.

AlanB1968 - on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

Plenty of naming possibilities for Everest too...
Damo on 17 Sep 2016
In reply to Fergal:
> Choosing post monsoon to attempt this seemed a little optimistic, lots of wading, trail breaking, alone at 8000m,

No. It's considered the best time for this kind of big face route, as per the south face of Shishapangma - nearly all its ascents have been Sept-Oct. In pre-monsoon, the Everest north face routes have too much hard, bare ice and stonefall, as recent parties have found (Dujmovits etc). You want a nice snow cover to make good safe footsteps for unroped continuous climbing, not tenuous cramponing down hard 40 degree slopes when exhausted.

Loretan and Troillet found excellent conditions for their August 1986 ascent, though Loretan was breaking trail in waist deep in snow up high in the Hornbein. Messner also had OK conditions in August 1980. In 1984 the White Limbo guys had a few avalanches but otherwise good conditions for their October summit. Other teams have climbed high on these routes in September.

The gamble is striking the window, if there is one, of enough snow to make the route good, but not so much there are massive avalanches, as there can be in September, as all the monsoon snow falls off from up high. Then in October the winds start...
Post edited at 02:34
Fergal - on 17 Sep 2016
In reply to Damo:
MY point was a tad optimistic for speed soloing, fully understanding the face needing snow cover, Boningtons SW face also chose post monsoon for these reasons, but a team has far more chance of success unless conditions are ideal, why do you think he didn't choose the north ridge? less avalanche hazard and surely no crowds in september.
Post edited at 09:20
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In reply to Damo:

Whether or not it's a trend, the weather the past few years post monsoon hasn't been very good.

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