In reply to TobyA:
Are your expectations of Peak lime suitably low? I don't think you'll find much fitting those criteria really
There are a few decent HVS's, but they're incredibly polished, and usually loose too.
The classic
The Thorn (HVS 5a) is probably the best of all - it has a short overhanging crux on good holds, in an exposed position. Beeston is a good crag and if you go, you should also try
Pocket Symphony (E1 5b), soft E1 (and really straightforward, like climbing a 5 in the wall) which has loads of threads (but isn't I'm afraid a gear-wherever-you-like crack).
Ravensdale is a nice place, but it is polished and loose.
Conclusor (HVS 5a) is decent enough,
Via Vita (E1 5c) is hard and worth the upgrade to E1 I think - it's got loads of gear, but the crux is an overhanging jamming crack in a wild position. The routes further right are pretty awful IMO.
The best rock is at Staden, where
Joint Effort (HVS 5b) fits all your criteria - a nice route. The worst rock is at Stoney Middleton, for HVSs, the place is dreadful. I do like the VS
Evasor (VS 4c) though.
Tough, and just about worth doing is
Valhalla (HVS 5b). At least it's not loose. There's a VS and some bouldering to while away a couple of hours there, a nice spot.
The climbing on Peak lime gets better at E1 and above - but only a bit!