/ Shakemantle grading?

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Greasy Prusiks on 17 Sep 2016
Does anyone know why some of the bolted routes at shakemantle/ruspidge are given trad grades? I climbed rain dance yesterday which is in the guide as E2 5b and reckon it's more of a 6b sport route. Bit of a trivial question but I'm wondering what the consensus is on logging this sort of thing is.
GridNorth - on 17 Sep 2016
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Yes, it was because they would have been the ONLY two sports routes in the guide and as such it was felt that they would attract a disproportionate amount of traffic. Personally I believe the grade should reflect the route regardless. Both Rain Shadow and Eczema are out and out f6b's IMO. Some of the others are hybrid in character so keeping a trad grade is appropriate.

Al
Greasy Prusiks on 17 Sep 2016
In reply to GridNorth:

OK thanks. I always wondered what the rational was.
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The Ivanator - on 17 Sep 2016
In reply to GridNorth:

Rain Dance (E1 5b) & The Rain in Spain Falls Mainly on the Plain... (HVS 5b) also seemed like fully bolted Sports lines to me F6a+ for the former and F6a for the latter at a guess.
Most of the other routes with some bolts e.g. Acid Rain (E1 5a) are run out enough to earn their Trad grades, not an awful lot of natural gear on the slab to supplement the bolts mind.
The hybrid rising traverse Rain Drops Keep Falling on My Head (E2 5b) is the route of the crag for anyone toying with the idea of a visit, get on it!

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