/ UKC FitClub week 496

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Dandan82 - on 18 Sep 2016
Morning FitClubbers!
We are temporarily fostering a young border terrier which makes getting outside yet more complicated, but iím still intending to at least have a go at my FitClub500 goal!

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=649543

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week's posters:

JayK - Looks like some focussed activity going on there, feeling improvements in any areas?
TonyB - Awesome work on the 7c! Must be good to know your unstructured summer didnít affect your climbing.
AJM - What are you going to do to replace your stump digging training!?
Mrchewy - You are doing rehab the right way, very impressive, keep it up!
Bobling - Well done getting the monkey off your back, when might you get a chance to do Questor or unknown wall?
Ian Bell - unbelievable quantities of good 7b+ to go at in Kalymnos, Iím sure you can find something to suit.
SteveM - Youíll be running out of HVS to do soonÖ
Leeboy1985 - Sorry to hear about the chest infection, hope things have perked up this week?
Hms - I like the sound of this unearthing of old routes, it combines my twin loves of climbing and hand tools!
Ally Smith - Sorry to hear about the shoulder, is this return of previous grumbles or new grumbles entirely? Good that you had an excuse to rest it.
Dandan - Train train train
Hokkyokusei - Nice to know there might be an easy fix for your issue.
D1 - You should get yourself some full time work related climbing/training goals to make sure you donít become a desk jockey!
Si dH - Foreign stag doís, the stuff of nightmares! How was your climbing performance after a weekend of debauchery?
Biscuit - Shame about the Bulge but it seems like you have plenty going on to keep you busy!
Guy12791745382 - Welcome along, so come on, what was disastrous about your Alps trip?
Planetmarshall - Welcome back, so youíve completely upped and moved to belgium for the forseeable future?
Curious Yellow - I get that too, itís always frustrating when you know you have done something once but canít figure out how to do it again!
Just Tintin - So are you going to have to get Ďdisgustingly strongí to do these crux moves?

*FitClub 500 Goals*
Itís the 500th FitClub on the 16th of October and Tyler suggested coming up with a goal to achieve by then, possibly something you donít usually do, or a goal aimed at a weakness of yours. Feel free to suggest your own goals or goals for other people based on what you know about them, anyone who completes their goal will be rewarded with a huge sense of self-satisfaction and a cheque for £2000.*

Tyler: Physio every day for a week with perfect form/ touch your toes
hms - do some steep bouldering with dynamic moves/get back on RHM
AJM - Get on 2x E5/ tick Cider Soak/ dog to top a Montserrat 8a+
Si dH - Do some offwidths/ boulder 7C
Ally Smith - do ToTG, do some deadlifts/bench bodyweight, cycle to work everyday for a week,
Luke Owens - do a 10 sessions of low end aero-cap before week 500
Dandan - Climb >7b slabby/technical/arete (struggling to find one local)
Biscuit - Techy slab head point
SteveM - 500 antag exercises in the week. (Easy!)
JustTintin - Jerrys Traverse and/or E3 lead
Ukb shark - Austrian Oak and a £2000 cheque
Ian Bell - Complete 7b+ pyramid

*Cheque for £2000 may not be genuine
hms - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

thanks Dan. Busy week, but today we are off to Ludlow for a few days for some gentle bimbling (with, shock horror, no wifi)

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening. Same as the prev week but I felt so much stiffer it was all a lot harder to do Sure it's very good for me.
T - cycle commute. Evening session at UCR with D1. Dozen routes in pairs, inc falling off a new 7a & a new 7a+ really near the top several times. Incredibly hot and humid in UCR.
W - cycle commute. Core, weights, rehab.
T - cycle commute. UCR again in the evening. Just as hot and humid. Dozen routes in pairs. Got the 7a from Tues easily, failed to lap it. Got 1 hold further on the 7a+, fell off lower trying to lap it.
F - 2+ miles walking. Back to Armistice with ropeman & clippers. Cleared the branches, brambles and most of the ivy. Spent a woefully long time getting in a bit of a tangle getting the rope up then 1 attempt shunting. Up to B2 is fine, above B4 is tricky but fine. Seems to be rather a lack of holds from B2 to B4 though - nothing bigger than 1/2 pad and mostly angled unhelpfully. Sure it is all about finding the foot positions. I'll be back.
S - Cheddar with D1 in glorious sunshine. Wanted to try a 7b on The Tsunami which is reached by climbing a 7a+ with slopers. Which wasn't a good choice for a sunny day! The 7b is great - steep, powerful & mainly juggy. Dropped it near the top when I missed a foothold, although the top itself then also took some unlocking - all about a deep drop-knee. No time for another go so something to return to.

This week won't see a lot of climbing but no bad thing as I'm feeling stiff & worked, so a few days stretching/relaxing will probably be good for me. Chorro long weekend at end of Oct, Costa Blanca long weekend at end of Nov.
S
Si dH - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:
2016 goals:

- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night (on hold for September.)

- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B) (done)
- moffatrocity (f7B+) (done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

- Arch Enemies (7c+) (done)
- The Free Monster (8a) (done)

M: In Prague all day recovering from hangover. Home about 10pm.
T: Still recovering.
W: Some shoulder rehab work.
T: Went to the Climbing Unit. Had a session trying a couple of blues on the comp wall again. Way too hot though, gave up after not much over an hour.
F: Rest
S: Morning at Blackwell Dale on Paint it Black. Positive progress vs my initial short session a few weeks back. I've now done the first 2 moves (albeit only once) and the end moves, to add to those in the middle that I had done before. I'm confident I can do it from mid height (a sort of high crouching start) to the top. There's one more move that I haven't done yet, about move 4, which is the final hand movement to get to the holds from where I'm ok to the top, and getting my feet out from under the roof at that same point. I've also not yet linked moves 1 and 2 into move 3. I'm not sure if it'll go this year but while conditions are better I'll keep trying as it's really good and constitutes good training too. In the afternoon we met some others for a play on grit at Rowtor but conditions were way too warm.
S: Just doing some shoulder rehab work.

Injury catalogue: minor niggles this week but nothing more.

Weight last Thursday night before leaving for Prague was 11st 5lb. When I got back on Monday night it was 11st 11 (a stone heavier than 4 weeks earlier!) Now back to about 11st 7. It's train-heavy time while I gradually lose it all again: going to focus on bouldering for the next few weeks as I think this'll work better in this context. Plus I had just done 6 weeks of 1 arm hang training before Prague.

Si
Post edited at 12:06
JayK - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Cheers Dan. I haven't been outdoors since the Cave at the end of August - so I've no idea how the old climbing is going. It's far easier to see the improvements on the running front. Feeling fitter and stronger. It seems as though I'm going to Font at the end of October - I'm going to try and get some grit days in between now and then (if it ever cools down!)

M- Monday night 8 miler + core session.
T- Rest
W- Rest
T- Hill intervals followed by Beastmaker. Slightly warm so I ended up having a general boulder and then a core set.
F- General bouldering session. Felt good to be fair. Although it was significantly cooler than previous day.
S-Parkrun (18:28) Week 4, quicker than the revised week 8 target so I'm going to have to re-revise the target.
S- Steady Sunday 10k.
AJM - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Cheers Dan. Once the stumps are out I'm off to Montserrat and Barcelona for a week, then after that I guess start on some bits and pieces inside the house (maybe upgrade the foot on campus board). Hopefully have time for some more rigorous climbing training too.

Monday - Sufferfest as stuck in work late
Tuesday - really early start at work for deadlines plus massive thunderstorms meant tired and unconvinced by conditions so rested
Wednesday - nearest thing I could manage to a triathlon pace and length test ride. Excluding intro and outro it was 39km and I covered it at 31.7kph. Was pleased with that and it gave me a good benchmark pace for the day itself.
Thursday - battered from ride. How can 75 minutes of exercise be so hard! I can now understand why after a winter of TT training Quiddity was able to destroy me with such ease on the Dragon Tour and our other rides.
Friday - tried a morning fingerboard session. Not my best session, shoulders a bit achey from spending so long on the drops on the bike

Saturday - Cider Soak. Baking heat, none of the promised cloud so conditions terrible. But in the interests of committing fully to the fc500 goal I soldiered on.
--- Plus points - some solid links on the top section to engrain it better. Best link in the shade at the end of the day when tired was only a move shy of previous highpoint. Did some linking into the two hardest moves of the very top section from below and was solid enough on them.
--- Minus points - I may need some new shoes. Trying to seriously work on clipping the third draw mid crux has revealed a potential problem with this - it's a lot easier to pretend to clip it because when it's in reality already clipped it's more in line with the rock - given the angle if you actually try to clip it for the first time it basically hangs out enough it's basically hanging into your body. Not sure how to deal with this. Current thinking is to extend the clip enough I can slap the QuickDraw into the rope rathe than try to fight the rope into a clip hanging against my torso in a really strenuous position.
--- Conclusion - it's really hard, and actually the third draw issue adds to an already considerable challenge. Second conclusion is that if the forecast for next weekend is sunny I just won't go on it. Fc500 goal and all that, but I'm absolutely 100% sure I can't link it in yesterday's conditions.

Sunday - relay triathlon day! Except because of the water quality it was made a duathlon instead which must have been gutting for the proper triathletes but wasn't such a big deal for me as I was only doing the bike leg of the relay anyway.
--- https://www.strava.com/activities/716719473
--- when I asked Quiddity for beta/advice (it's basically a time trial and he does time trials!) he said 30-32kph would be a decent first go on a road bike (no TT bars) and to aim for 1:15 (thinking it was a 40km ride - 32kph). So, having averaged 33.4kph and having covered 40kph in a hair over 1:12 I'm pretty chuffed. I got pipped to the post out of our 3 teams by 15 seconds in the bike leg but he had TT bars so I'm not too unhappy with that.

A decent, full week. Cider Soak felt very hard but I'm trying to kid myself that if it's overcast and cool next weekend it will feel like it's covered in really grippy jugs and I'll crush it. Pleased with the biking today.

Plans for the week - maybe 1 more stump out, but really the priority is to squeeze in any training for the weekend I can do whilst also being rested enough to be able to really give it full beans Saturday and Sunday.
Ian Bell - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to AJM:

Hi all

STG - Good last few weeks pre Kalymnos, stay in shape and don't get injured!
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40

M - boulder circuits in the Westway, 15 mins yoga
T - 2 sets of TRX rings, 15 mins yoga
W - bouldering in the Fridge, did 4 of the V3/4. boulder circuits in the Westway, 15 mins yoga.
F - 4x4s (2 up and 2 downclimb) at the Westway, Brutal!
Sat - visit to Vauxhall city farm to see the bunnies ;-) 45 mins bouldering at Vauxhall, felt a twinge in the arm so stopped early. didn't warm up enough I think.
Sun - bit of a cough and still slightly tweaked arm so rested.

Not climbing again till Tuesday and think the arm should be fine by then, had an easy day today to try and kill off that and the cough. Hopefully another week of pre kalymnos circuits next week and aiming to get outside at the weekend as well.
mattrm - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Still ill I'm afraid. Sitting down for any length of time is quite uncomfortable. Which causes all sorts of problems. Off the anti-biotics tho. Mainly cause I've been on them for about 2 months or so. Feels like I'm broadly on the mend tho. Which is hopefully the case.
Ally Smith on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Hi Dan,
My shoulder grumbles are obviously linked to the original injury, but thankfully the recent grumble feels more like a muscular strain than the earlier tear.

This week, i've been away from home so haven't had the chance to do much beyond:
- Some experimental hangs at the start of the week - shoulder wasn't happy - so
- 5 theraband sessions
- Big core session in the hotel room - UKCFC500 tick - 500 core movements - amazingly wasn't even sore the next day

This week i need to get over 5 days of gluttony and boozing, do more rehab, a yoga session and maybe get out climbing if the shoulder complies...
mrchewy - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan - enjoy having the dog around, I'd love one but don't have the life for one at all.

Mon - AM 1hr Conditioning. 40k cycle 14.7mph average PM 30min Stretches
Tue - Long day at work. Shoulders and back battered after, so sat in the garden and had a few cans.
Wed - AM 1.5hr Conditioning. Another hard day at work.
Thu - AM 30min Stretches PM 1.5hr on 15deg homeboard. Almost managed Paul's circuit, ran out of oomph. Definitely next time.
Fri - AM 1.5hr Conditioning PM Took the van out to see if it was fixed... the wheels go round!
Sat - AM 44k Ride 14.6mph average. Really wet and strong winds.
Sun - Rubicon messing around on the traverse etc. Got pumped. Blood blister on the tip of a middle finger.

I'm putting this down as a good week, despite a few mistakes.

Got to Rubicon today and was shattered before I even started. Thursday's late homeboard session, followed by a hard bout of physio exercises early next morning really took it out of me if I'm honest. Then the cycle on Saturday was tough - I'm struggling on the hills and conditions were dreadful, so nervous going fast downhill.. So need to plan things a little better.

Happy with the two cycle rides. Nothing like AJM of course but it's getting easier. Think I need to start trying to raise the lactic threshold next. Dropping 50 beats in 2 minutes when I stop and I now have a resting heart rate of 52bpm during the day. So the fitness is coming back.
The session on Paul's board had me psyched! Now I have some shoulder stability, everything is easier - it felt like cheating being able to lock off. A whole new load of stuff I can do, after five years of climbing! Simple stuff too, it'll make a huge difference methinks but I'm gonna have to learn to climb differently for sure.

Rubicon was alright but I'd forgotten how polished the Peak can be. Greased off the 5B by the sign, when I didn't push hard enough with the right foot and ping, I was off and missing the mats. Was too tired to be trying hard at going upwards, so traversed about the rest of the day but miles away from being able to get all the way across again. Belayed Paul on The Sissy.

Need to focus on flexibility this week, as let it slip a little and also need to get back on core work. Tried a wheel of death yesterday and no hope - I could do sets on it two years ago. No outdoors as family stuff this coming weekend.

Si dH - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to mrchewy:

> Rubicon was alright but I'd forgotten how polished the Peak can be. Greased off the 5B by the sign, when I didn't push hard enough with the right foot and ping, I was off and missing the mats. Was too tired to be trying hard at going upwards, so traversed about the rest of the day but miles away from being able to get all the way across again. Belayed Paul on The Sissy.

Any bouldering visit to Rubicon should be seen as great finger training in a lovely location, and you should just forget the fact that everything feels desperate and you can't climb the things you feel you should be able to
Bobling - on 18 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:
Thanks Dan. I'm still chuffed about ticking a goal last week so have rested on my laurels a bit. Good question about when I'm going to go for my next goal. Perhaps weekend after next? That will help motivate me! Only noteworthy thing to happen this week is to tick the sit up goal. This is actually quite pleasing as I've been struggling with sit ups, used to be I could crank loads out (c.65) and not do the press ups, seems to be the other way round now!

Stats:
Mon - P47, S43
Tues - Nothing
Weds - P48, S38
Thurs - Redpoint
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - P50, S50
Weight: 73.20 (+0.15)
Injury report: No significant change. Starting to run on it in little bits when the mood takes me, or when I am late for stuff, even though I shouldn't.

Goals:
Short Term (before November 2016). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 50 in 2 mins (Tick! Change to 60). Flash 6b at the wall (almost got this one too, but not quite).

Medium Term (before September 2017)
Get up a 6c at the wall. Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running. Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.

Long Term
I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner

BHAG - ?
Post edited at 21:47
mrchewy - on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Si dH:

> Any bouldering visit to Rubicon should be seen as great finger training in a lovely location, and you should just forget the fact that everything feels desperate and you can't climb the things you feel you should be able to

Luckily, I head out with no expectations at the moment - but it's difficult to be unhappy at Rubicon anyway. The sun was bouncing off the lake and shimmering on the rock, there were plenty of psyched people around and a comfy mat or three to have a doze on when I ran out of energy. The fingers are throbbing this morning, just as they should be.
planetmarshall on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

> Planetmarshall - Welcome back, so youíve completely upped and moved to belgium for the forseeable future?

Cheers Dan, No it's just a temporary move for the duration of this contract, which should be until February 2017. My goals while here will probably just be trying to continue training. Climbing outdoors will be a weekend only activity - though since we'll be heading into the Winter months soon I don't think I'll be missing out on too much. Might even manage the odd weekend sport climbing somewhere in the sun ( already got a weekend in Font planned for November ).

Last week I didn't manage much apart from a day bouldering on Saturday.

Saturday Bouldering at Boulder One. Have decided to put physical training activities such as 4x4s on the back burner for a while and just try and develop movement skills. Watching some of the better boulderers, I realise I have lots to learn about efficient technique. Managing to flash most of the Orange (f5+ supposedly, but probably nowhere near an actual f5) problems. Will try working on a pyramid this week.

STG Off to Kalymnos on Friday for a week. Taking my new 80m rope and will hopefully get back on Wild Sex (6b) and have a go at No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+) if it is pigeon free.

MTG Keep training over the Winter

SteveM - on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

I've still not done any core/antag exercises (been too busy climbing) so 500 in a week might be a challenge ;-)

STG (end of Sept)
Get on at least one HVS per trad session (tick)
Base training for Abbey Dash 10K in October (1 run)
Bike commuting at least once a week (no)
SkiFit once a week, includes core work (no)

MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule

LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again

BHAG
Big wall solo

Last week was
Mon Soloing at Almscliff before the rain set in. Extra exercise in the form of an impromptu casualty evacuation (bust ankle) at the end of the evening.
Tues First Almscliff HVS (Overhanging Groove (HVS 5a)), about time too, I moved to Leeds over 12 years ago!
Wed Lunchtime run up and down steps in Knaresborough. Back to the cliff, more trad after work. No HVS tho.
Thu Nothing, tired and battered after 5 days climbing in a row
Fri Nothing
Sat Stanage High Neb/North, 3 HVS including Terrazza Crack (HVS 5a). Party in the evening
Sun Hungover morning. Back to Stanage, Popular end. Another brace of HVS (The Scoop)

Total of 6 more HVS this week. Lots of climbing, making the best use of the good weather. But little running and biking going on.
Dandan82 - on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks me,
It's been a pretty full-on week with 7 sessions on the training plan, plus I made a fair chunk of progress on the garage foundations at the weekend which was exhausting.

M: Core; Still nails but feeling less agonising, lower back is definitely strengthening

T: Indoor routes; 1 on 2 off at 7a x10 felt really good.

W: Went for a ride and a dig in the woods

T: Indoor routes; Polarised Continuity at 7a+

F: Fingerboard; 2RM on 18mm edge at +38kg, 7/3 hangs on 18mm edge at +10kg, went much better when I used the right amount of weight!

S: Rings and bar conditioning, then triples on the moonboard. I wanted to use a different V5 to last week as it had quite a cruxy move in it, I tried a bunch of others but couldn't get up any of them! Can't blame conditions, I think maybe I was tired from a full on week, but I had to do the reps on a V4, (which on a moonboard is like a real-world V5)
Finished my bricks for the garage foundation, very pleased.

S: Indoor routes; Polarised continuity at 7a, only did 3 of the 4 sets as my left forearm was feeling a little delicate, almost certainly due to the several tonnes of soil I backfilled into my foundation trenches in the morning. Still, another job done.

I'm feeling a touch knackered at the moment, I fully understand that going riding on my only free evening and then filling my weekend with garage building has contributed to that, but there are things other than climbing that I want or need to get done, so it is what it is.
On the plus side, it's a rest week on the plan this week, only 4 sessions so I'm going to do my best to fully rest on the other days, I don't want an injury this early into the plan, well I don't want an injury full stop, so I've got to keep listening to my body.

The foster puppy arrived on Saturday and he's an absolute joy, very calm and very well trained considering he is only 6 months old, the problem is our dog is jealous of him, showing behaviour that we've never seen from her before, including some quite aggressive behaviour.
It's quite upsetting and surprising as we've had all sorts of dogs stay for days at a time and she's normally fine, him being a young dog might have something to do with it, apparently if you get a new puppy it can take a couple of weeks for other dogs to adapt, the news from home is that everything was ok this morning so hopefully things are improving.

I really must get some goals written up!
leeboy1985 - on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dandan - Hope the new puppy and your dog start to get along. It just like us really you got to get used to new people. Yeah my chest has only just today started feeling normal again so on with some decent training now
Started logging what I eat this week as I need to concentrate more on short term goals and it is scary how much I do actually indulge in cr*p

Last weeks goals

Drop to 82kg - Fail still 83kg
2 mountain walks - Fail I did manage to get 2 runs in and one long dog walk
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp. Don't know if I will be able to achieve this as I might have to work all next weekend but I'm going to leave it on as a goal to try and push for it. - Fail
Climb at least twice - Tick

Next weeks goals

Drop to 82kg
2 mountain walks or runs
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp.
Climb at least twice


MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b), Scavenger (VS 4c) and The Druid (VS 4c)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) by end of Sept - hopefully tick this off this weekend


LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter

BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)

Monday -1.5 hour bouldering session. 15 min traversing
Tuesday - 20 min kettle bell workout -
Wednesday - Struggled on a 2.3 mile run - took me 30 min with my chest
Thursday - 5.8 mile run in 1hr 10min- chest feeling a bit better
Friday - Climbed The Druid (VS 4c) did not realise how quick the nights are now drawing in and only managed this climb
Saturday - Rest and drank way to much alcohol
Sunday - 5 hour dog walk around the hills by me

Happy Training
Lee
Just Tintin - on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Which core are you finding nails? Ben is finding them all horrible so would appreciate some solidarity as I'm going okay. My off bar L sits pretty hilarious though as I'm on a pile of books to correct short arms...

planetmarshall on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

> *FitClub 500 Goals*

As I'm going to Kaly next week - a route there seems like a good option. I don't like picking grades as objectives, so I'll just say "something steep with stalactites, tufas and stuff". If I can manage No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+) then that'll do. I'll have a look through the guidebook later.
Dandan82 - on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Just Tintin:

> Which core are you finding nails? Ben is finding them all horrible so would appreciate some solidarity as I'm going okay. My off bar L sits pretty hilarious though as I'm on a pile of books to correct short arms...

It's the spiderman hold and the dish hold with leg waggle, they both hit my lower back hard but it's definitely improving. I could definitely do the spiderman hold with a wider stance so I'm keen to improve on that. I like the intensity of the session, it seems like a really worthwhile 40 minutes.
The L-Sits aren't such an issue as I've been doing them for the last six months when doing the gymnastic bodyweight exercises, I have a 0 ape index so can just about do them on the floor.
hokkyokusei - on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

> Morning FitClubbers!

Good morning!

> Hokkyokusei - Nice to know there might be an easy fix for your issue.

The physio on the shin was excruciating and left me unable to walk! It does feel like it's on the mend but, as advised, I've not run on it. Back at the physio tomorrow. Meanwhile:

m - 10km cycling
t - physio then spent the rest of the day with ice and my foot in the air!
w - 13.5km cycling
t - 10km cycling
f - 10 km cycling
s - Saltaire Festival
s - nowt

Weight 80.3kg, Body fat 19%

STG - Get over shin injury.
MTG - PB at Amsterdam Half Marathon isn't going to happen as I forgot to register
LTG - Climb a big mountain next year.
Dandan82 - on 19 Sep 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

> As I'm going to Kaly next week - a route there seems like a good option. I don't like picking grades as objectives, so I'll just say "something steep with stalactites, tufas and stuff". If I can manage No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+) then that'll do. I'll have a look through the guidebook later.

Elefantenhimmel (7a) is pretty bonkers stalactite climbing, it goes completely horizontal!
TonyB - on 20 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan,

So last week was always going to be difficult as my wife was away. I started the week well.

Mon - Bouldering on the home wall. I've been doing a session of short hardish problems with little rest. It's taken a while to get this session to work, but it's working now. The session is supposed to be 95-100% of maximum. I'd been unsure about how this related to the difficulty of individual problems, but am now getting a feel for it. I do need to make it slightly harder though.
Tue - Bouldering at the Climbing Station. I've been working on hard problems with long rests. I've been trying the green V5-7 circuit and out of 6 problems tried, I got 3 done. The ones I could do I did 4 times.
Wed - 1 on 1 off. This is a great session to fit in. I take my son to Kids' Climbing Club at the Unit in Derby and have one hour whilst he climbs. This really works, as it's hard to get much else done in an hour.
Thur-Fri - nothing I had some problems with my upper back which I think was caused by spending too long writing a report on my laptop in bed. I didn't train as I wasn't sure what the problem was and didn't want to make it worse.
Sat - we were on a family meet with our climbing club in Llanberris. I did The Desolation of Smaug! (6c). What a great climb. I find slate quite tough. This isn't actually very hard and is very well bolted, but the climbing is weird and I could have fallen off a few times. I suspect it's a case of getting used to slate, but the holds point in strange direction and the line follows grooves that you need to do all sorts of funky palming on. It was brilliant. The back was sore at night and putting on/taking off a rucsack, but totally fine for climbing.
Sun - mostly childcare at the RAC boulders. I did the The Marsh Traverse (V5), which was pretty cool and will have to try the V6 version next time. The climbing was more strenuous than on slate, but the back was fine.

Overall, I didn't get as much training done as I should. I've been skipping the aerobic and conditioning workouts, so have to be more disciplined this week.
guy127917 - on 20 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Last week:
M: Low/Medium intensity bouldering, mainly a selection of slab problems then a selection of roof routes.
Tu: 8km medium pace run, climbing intervals 3x3x2 minutes on (~6a+-6c), 3 minutes off, following by 4x4 minutes on, 2 minutes off (~5+). Felt awful whilst climbing (though the Castle was about 30c).
W: Woke up feeling very sore all over, relaxed pace 6km run.
Th: Woke up feeling terrible again, what have I done to deserve this? 1 hour light bouldering (max v4)
F: Woke up feeling like I'd done 12 rounds with Tyson.
Sa: Climbing at Stanage Popular (VDiff-HS), first visit/second time on grit... WOW
Su: Climbing at Stanage Plantation (HS/VS)- turns out I can't jam on VS cracks... (need to revisit TR's crack school videos maybe)

Alps trip issue- basically my partner had an array of fitness/nutrition/acclimatisation/exposure/illness/other complaints the whole way up the south ridge of the Lagginhorn, which is quite long. Ended up summitting at 7pm (4.30am start) and having to spend the night at 3500m on the descent. I aborted the trip on return to the hut the next day.

Not sure why I recovered from run/climbing workout's so poorly this week, think my body must still be recovering from the aforementioned day if that is possible. I think I'm going to take it relatively easy this week and will try and kick of 6 weeks of training for sport climbing trip in November on Monday.
jas128 - on 20 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Hi Dan. Thanks for doing the stats this week!

M: Yoga - mid back again. V good and felt a little easier than last week
T: UCR with hms. Was gross and humid. did 8 routes up to 6c but was just getting so hot
W: nothing
Th: nothing
Fri: nothing
Sat: Cheddar. Tried a horrible 6a+, then onto the amenable 7a on the tsunami. It will definitely definitely go! Managed to rip a hole in my hand on my 2nd go working the hard moves (well just after them) which meant the rest of the route felt harder!
Sun: Nothing

In terms of goals, I have some lurking ones, but nothing too concrete. For week 500 I'd like to get a 7a done either indoors or out. This should be possible if I actually try, and also do get on 7s! I'll see if I can come up with some more goals for week to week motivation.
Curious Yellow - on 20 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Much lighter week. As I'm about to head out to Kalymnos, I think my fitclub 500 goal probably has to involve tufas. Doom...

Mon: Rest.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Wall. 4x 4 laps on short steep 6c.
Thurs: Wall. Boulder projects.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Castlebergh Crag. Lots of 6's with an emphasis on the short and bouldery. Really fun.
Sun: Much like Saturday
Just Tintin - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

It's the dish waggle that's getting Ben too (brilliant technical terms here). Yeah we're doing it to feel righteous when we can't be bothered to cycle to the wall. And then half way through the dish waggled wishing we'd gone to the wall! Finding the polarised continuity harder now as its wrecking my skin.

Just Tintin - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan. Another bad week of sleep but got some stuff done so at least not losing ground. Tried to get on the other half of my FC500 and learnt a few lessons.

M - conditioning
T - fingerboard/core
W - rest
T - continuity and conditioning
F - work
S - continuity and 1/2 - work
S - Symonds Yat day trip as couldn't be bothered to drive further. HVS to warm up and cool down with some work on Piggy Malone (E4 6a), which I think Joyce did last year, and a nails E3 toward the end of the day where I was struggling as had no forearms left after Piggy so couldn't bring myself either physically or mentally to take the crux semi-dynamically over a single nut. Should go.

Piggy itself feels like a sport route as the holds are all there as it steepens and you make big athletic moves, and there's good pro behind some flakes and in slots towards the top. I don't really climb sport so not sure what I'd give it ...6c? Definitely doable with a bit more power endurance. Sadly that's not where my training programme is at the moment, but will definitely keep it on as an option!

At least I've started breaking the mental barrier of working trad...It's weird though.
AJM - on 08:34 Fri
In reply to Just Tintin:

I think I tried Piggy years ago - I don't remember what happened to it (backed off I assume) but steep 6c has got to be about the right sort of grade for it given that the gear will be pretty strenuous.

Not that I ever tried it, but heart of oak gets god write-ups as a yat e4 doesn't it? I did the e2/3 thing right of golden fleece with mattrm of this parish a few years back which was fun.
biscuit - on 18:30 Sat
In reply to Dandan82:

Cheers Dan. Late post from me, had a busy week. However last week was good.

Monday went to CyL and got the 7b+ traverse 3rd go. Should probably have been 1st or 2nd but i'm slowly realising how rubbish I am at retaining beta. The Fox had to basically talk me through it. Obvious next goal is to add the middle bit on, which I think bumps it up to 7c+.

Had 2 midweek sessions at AW bouldering. Max sessions one working moves on the steep side and one on the UKC side working some red problems that Jack from the shop has put up. They're really good (the ones I could do). No grades and the sort of problems that are about technique. Once you've got them sussed you can get them everytime. Learnt a lot about where my weaknesses are.

Went to N Wales Thur eve to sat am. Wind on Friday put me off Parisella's so ended up going there on Sat am. I had a short time slot (about an hr and a half) as we had to get back to Manc to go somewhere. I tried the left wall traverses. Decided the 7c wasn't going to go in that time, then tried the 7b+ (from the half shot hole hold I think) and sussed that out reasonably well. With no time left I gave it one last bash after a few failed goes, where I was again let down by my beta skills, got to the kneebar (yes I was cheating) but only styed in it for 5 secs as we really had to go. That ended up in me getting really pumped, losing focus and forgetting a key foot hold to use with the last hard move side pull. Dropped it on the last hard move. Ah well it'll go next time.

Had a bit of a climb with the squad on Sunday, nothing much though.

Next week's report will be a zero. First week at uni and 2 separate family crises put paid to Wed and Thurs eve plans and i'm currently half way through the BLCC's with the squad.
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mattrm - on 23:18 Sat
In reply to AJM:

> Not that I ever tried it, but heart of oak gets god write-ups as a yat e4 doesn't it? I did the e2/3 thing right of golden fleece with mattrm of this parish a few years back which was fun.

Never Trust a Smiling Cat, E2 5c. The 'warm-up' route. I really enjoyed it. At the time the hardest (and best) route that I'd done.

People often say bad things about the Yat, but I've had some excellent days climbing there. That day with you, doing NTSC and then Orange Wall. Then doing a bunch of good routes with Just Tintin including the excellent The Trip. Other days doing The Druid, Flight, Trundlebrum Rex and others.

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