/ sport climbing NE Italy

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
kenr - on 21 Sep 2016

Muhlen crag in Truden / Trodena:
This note has updated information -- after a change in access to these crags since my previous note posted in 2014.

Today Sharon and I climbed at the Muhlen crag, #21 in the Chiaramonte guidebook.
Near Truden and Montan roughly S from Bozen.

Driving time about 25 minutes from S side of Bolzano / Bozen Sud. Or about 65 minutes driving from Canazei on SW side of Sella group.

Both the upper and lower crags have the usual pleasant Sudtirol klettergarten base area, in quiet forest. Details about climbing in guidebook or web search on "Muhlen klettergarten".
. . (see on map - https://goo.gl/maps/hSxTo)
_____________________________________________________________________
Upper crag:
Short straightforward access on good trail. The three climbs which we tried near the right end had very tough difficulty grades (the climbing was much harder than we expected).
. . Parking Upper crag - latitude longitude approx (N46.3134 E11.3299)
. . Climbs Upper crag - (N46.3135 E11.3235)

Approach to Upper crag: From parking around second curve E up from Muhlen (or "Molini") village, hike W on upper fork of dirt trail about 500 meters. Turn right and go steep up N about 40 meters to reach crag.
. . (about 75 vertical meters of uphill over 0.5km distance).
_____________________________________________________________________
Lower crag:
The four climbs we tried near the left end had good to excellent quality. Difficulty grades perhaps a bit "tough" (the climbing was a little harder than we expected).

Access: Problem for the lower crag is that there is little or no legal Parking near the closest (low) trailhead (SE from the crag). So recently someone has created a new (higher) access trail from a (higher) trailhead East from the crag, where Parking is definitely legal - (same Parking as for upper crag). We saw a sign + map at the higher parking saying that this is the new access method.
. . Parking + High trailhead for Lower crag - latitude longitude approx (N46.3134 E11.3299)
. . Low Trailhead Lower crag - (N46.3113 E11.3246)
. . Climbs Lower crag - (N46.3125 E11.3224)

Higher Approach to Lower crag: From parking around second curve E up from Muhlen (or "Molini") village, hike WSW on lower fork of dirt trail (sometimes marked with orange paint sometimes also yellow) for about 220 meters, at first wide and downward, later narrower with ups+downs. This trail segment ends by reaching trail # 12. Turn Right and go W uphill on trail # 12 about 70 meters until see orange + yellow paint on left side. There turn off Left (WSW) onto a narrow dirt/grass trail (often marked with orange paint sometimes also yellow). At first gentle downward for 200 meters, then turn Left (S) and down steep for 25 meters, soon turn Right (west) and continue down steep for 130 meters, until reach Right (east) end of Lower Crag).
. . (about +25 vertical meters uphill over 0.75 km distance).
. . (return the same way has +80 vertical meters uphill over 0.75 km distance).

Lower Approach to Lower crag: About 75 meters West down the asphalt road from Gasthof "Zur Muhle" find unsigned dirt trail leaving north side of road. Hike NW diagonal up wide dirt path 300 meters to crag.
. . (about 50 vertical meters of uphill over 0.4km distance).
_____________________________________________________________________
Post edited at 22:15

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.