/ NEWS: Black Beard's tears, 8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle

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UKC News - on 22 Sep 2016
Ethan Pringle on Black Beard's tears, 8c+ trad, Promontory, Northern California., 4 kbEthan Pringel has made the first ascent of what he calls his possibly coolest and most unique first ascent ever, Black Beard's tears, 8c+ trad, at the Promontory in Northern California.

In an Instagram post, Ethan says that he needed around ten days of work to be able to redpoint this 30+ meter...

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jsmcfarland - on 22 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Most unique?

(I'm not trolling for dislikes, honest)
Michael Gordon - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to jsmcfarland:

> Most unique?
>

phrase seems OK to me.

Looks like a top class route
nniff - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Looks like a candidate for Pseud's Corner in the Eye. I read some pretentious rubbish in my time, but that is arrant nonsense.
galpinos on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> phrase seems OK to me.

Really? Things are either unique, or not unique, it's a binary option. Most unique is nonsense, as is most of the news piece.
Post edited at 08:14
Phil Murray - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to galpinos:

I've just read the piece - good grief! - makes most "management speak" crap seem tame. Are we now suffering from a climbing form of management speak? the whole article is like a spoof.
john arran - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to galpinos:

To paraphrase Orwell, "All routes are unique but some are more unique than others"
galpinos on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to john arran:

> To paraphrase Orwell, "All routes are unique but some are more unique than others"

They certainly are, especially when hey, "...get heady, break you down and force you to check at least some of your ego at the bottom."
humptydumpty - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:
> redpoint this 30+ metre crack, which he protected with 15 cams

This makes me feel better about my massive rack.
Post edited at 09:34
GrahamD - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Great looking piece of rock. What I couldn't work out from all the pseud's corner crap was: did he place the gear on lead or was it, to all intents and purposes, a sport route ?
Phil79 - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to Phil Murray:

> I've just read the piece - good grief! - makes most "management speak" crap seem tame. Are we now suffering from a climbing form of management speak? the whole article is like a spoof.

He doesn't quite get full marks. No mention of 'send it', 'sick' or 'rig'.
Carless - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Very fine looking route, but do all top American climbers really write like that?
ChrisBrooke - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Allow me:

>Once I started giving it legit red point burns I pushed my high point higher every day (including one fall from the very last move on Saturday) so I thought I might get off easy without entering the realm of pre-send stress, the realm of manifesting worst case scenarios.

Translation: once I started trying to climb the route in one go, I got a bit further on each attempt, and, perhaps a little prematurely, thought I'd get it done before getting pissy about it.

>But of course as happens with the most meaningful projects, progress wasn't linear and I had a heady couple days of "regression" before realizing how dialled I had it and taking advantage of a one hour window of the right kind of wind yesterday.

Translation: As is sometimes the case when trying to do a hard rock climb, you stuff it up a few times, before the practice pays off. [untranslatable bit about wind.....?]

>The important ones always get heady, break you down and force you to check at least some of your ego at the bottom. That's what I love and hate about hard projects: they force you to surrender.

Translation: Hard climbs make you have to try really hard, which is great fun.
Michael Gordon - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to galpinos:

> Really? Things are either unique, or not unique, it's a binary option. Most unique is nonsense

I don't know. Not sure John Arran was being entirely serious but to an extent you could say every route is unique.

Michael Gordon - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

I think he is trying to convey that projecting these routes can be a real mental battle, not just a physical one.
SenzuBean - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to Phil79:

> He doesn't quite get full marks. No mention of 'send it', 'sick' or 'rig'.

My uncle who works on an oil rig; became sick with the flu. I had a spare randy rag, so I thought I'd send it to him to cheer him up.
LakesWinter on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to Phil79:

Also missing terms such as 'crush' 'sweet compression' and RAD, but a good effort in writing utter bollox all the same. Who cares how hard the climb was? The article is the gem, the level of utter crap is amazing!
wbo - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:
Given the amount of apparent distress caused perhaps such items can be marked with a flag and the sensitive can stick to looking at the pictures
Alasdair Fulton - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

> Great looking piece of rock. What I couldn't work out from all the pseud's corner crap was: did he place the gear on lead or was it, to all intents and purposes, a sport route ?

All gear placed on lead apparently. Strangely the UKC article seems to be a badly paraphrased version of this:

http://gripped.com/news/ethan-pringle-sends-blackbeards-tears-worlds-second-5-14c-crack/
jsmcfarland - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Confession: I only read the 'NEWS' on UKC for the comments. Keep it up gang : )
Cog - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Not sure John Arran was being entirely serious.

I assume you have not read Animal Farm.
Michael Gordon - on 27 Sep 2016
In reply to Cog:

No. The phrase was familiar but I didn't know where it originated.
beverooni on 28 Sep 2016
In reply to Michael Gordon:

It originated in Antiquity: primus inter pares.
Chris Harris - on 28 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Ethan Pringel may well talk a massive load of crap because his name is an anagram of elephant ring.

Discuss.

planetmarshall on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to nniff:

> Looks like a candidate for Pseud's Corner in the Eye. I read some pretentious rubbish in my time, but that is arrant nonsense.

I disagree. The language might be a bit offputting but his description makes perfect sense.
Tyler - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

Yep, to describe the physical process of a redpoint, as well as the emotional highs and lows, in so few words is pretty neat really.
JLS on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

Two countries divided by a common language.

Yip, was good for me too. I felt he conveyed his experience of procuring a successful ascent pretty well.
ads.ukclimbing.com
JLS on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to nniff:

>"I read some pretentious rubbish in my time, but that is arrant nonsense."

Whatever you do, don't "like" Dave Graham on Facebook.
I fear the experience of one of his more challenging posts might cause your head to explode.

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