UKC

I want to replace a shunt, thinking petzl basic, opinions please
(This is just for climbing, not rope access, to save time I'm aware redundancy is best practice with additional rope and unit, not what I'm interested in this time)
Thanks

In reply to John Kelly:

I use a wild country ropeman, and find its fine. It's an ascender so you need to have a plan for abbing off technique if you need to unload while under tension. I just have a Prusik for that situation

In reply to paulh.0776

Prussik, yes, might even haul the shunt

(You can just wrap rope round your foot but it's pretty intense)

In reply to paulh.0776:

Is it a 1 or a 2

In reply to John Kelly:

Ropeman 2 is what I use, or a grigri works better than most things because you can ab straight off. Gotta pull rope through it though

In reply to zimpara:
I had a quick look at the WC website and I think the ropeman 2 covers a better range of rope diameters for my purposes, not sure about the spikes on the cam though. Forgotten about the Revo?, could you self belay in similar manner to 'silent partner' with it?
Never considered the grigri but maybe

In reply to John Kelly:

It's a ropeman 1, I've got a no 2 but don't like the look of the spikes so only take it with me if I'm on a glacier

In reply to John Kelly:

If you're working a route then a grigri is best as you can practice cruxes repeatedly, otherwise I use a micro traxion.

In reply to John Kelly:
Petzl ascender and micro traxion work well together. There is more information about self belaying on the Petzl website showing systems for single rope and double ropes.

In reply to John Kelly:

I used to use a Basic and it worked well enough. I now have a Microtraxion (purchased for glacier travel, not because I was unhappy with the Basic), and that also works well. My main gripe with the Basic was that it was a pain rigging it up so that there was no slack in the system. If you put it on the rope and clip it to your belay loop it'll end up below your belay loop as you climb, and falling onto a toothed ascender with slack seems like a terrible idea!

You can solve that by clipping the top hole to a loop of cord around your shoulders or similar, but it's a bit awkward.

In reply to tehmarks:

great info thanks

also

'You can solve that by clipping the top hole to a loop of cord around your shoulders or similar, but it's a bit awkward.'
Yes
I used to do similar with shunt and it was awkward but better than the long drop when it trails the belay loop

In reply to John Kelly:
thanks for all the replies - lots of food for thought there

cheers
John

from petzl
https://www.petzl.com/GB/en/Sport/General-principles-for-solo-climbing-with...

In reply to John Kelly:

I use a mini-traxion and think it is fantastic. With slings around the shoulders to keep it orientated upright it slides up the rope with barely any resistance and when you let go you just slump slightly onto the rope. It's a very safe system, especially if you want to mod your mini-trax so it can't lock open, though I have never had any problems with this and it is useful having the ability to keep it open but connected to the rope while your weight is on a descending device or a prussik. Plenty of pictures on mountainproject/supertopo about TR'ing with traxions. I get the impression it's the done thing for working long routes in yosemite etc.

In reply to John Kelly:

Have a look at http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-to-Set-Up-a-Self-Belay-for-a-Solo-Toprope/a1... .

In reply to John Kelly:

I use a SAR rocker (also made by ISC). What's great is that it only needs a small weight on the rope to run freely ( I use my shoes), and it will run up and down so you can downclimb without having to release it. It's also specifically designed for fall arrest, unlike a lot of the other devices mentioned.
Downsides are that it only works on a single static rope of at least 10.5mm, and you need to transfer to another device to ab off.

In reply to John Kelly:

Like a lot of people have already posted, my current rig is also the tried and true mini-traxion (and grigri for descents). Sometimes I do tie knots, but not always. Also when working out high-ball boulders with a rope, I might just use the grigri (and a knot).

How ever, I've been quite tempted to replace the mini-traxion with a camp lift... and now also the camp goblin. I beleive it's more or less the same function as the SAR rocker, but seems a tad more compact unit. And not too spendy.

In reply to John Kelly:

I use a micro traction with a 10.5 mm static rope and a light dynamic rope on back up . I run a locking belay device ( mega jul ) on the dynamic rope . It can be annoying to have to keep pulling the rope mega jul but i like the idea of a belay device to jump onto if it goes tits up . The fact it locks also means you weight that rope which has come in handy at times .

I always cary a range of prussicks , slings too and a knife .

In reply to John Kelly:

Petzl Microcender as main device (with a sling around the chest to hold up).

Petzl Basic as a back up below the Microcender.

I've tried loads of different combo's and find this one works best.