UKC

Inspired by the UKC article, I am thinking of trying a sport climbing trip to Malta in May 2017 and am looking for some information. We are climbing in the range f6a-6c and are obviously seeking crags with a number of climbs in this range. Do you have any recommendations? Similarly, we don’t really know which would be the best area to stay in, to minimise driving. We prefer some studio type accommodation with restaurants nearby, again any recommendations appreciated.

We have two dates in mind, March the 31st and May the 29th. Is March too early, or are we likely to have good weather. In the UK we are used to rain, but we prefer to climb in the sun.

Finally, I see there is a guidebook, from 2013, which we will purchase, but are there topo’s for newer developments, or perhaps an App.

In reply to kipper12:

Ask Simon Alden http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=91623 he's the man!

In reply to scott titt:

Cheers for that

In reply to kipper12:
We went in January this year for 10 days and it only rained one day but I think that's rare! Wied Babu is a good crag for those grades and is one of the more popular crags on the island but I think the better lines we did were at the areas of Mellieha Cave (Crazy Monkey at 7a is FANTASTIC) and Ghar Lapsi. Join Malta Climbing Club page on facebook for recent developments and info. Really friendly bunch. Enjoy!

EDIT:

Guidebook is great and money goes back into the bolting fund so is well worth seeking out as the island needs a lot of new bolts due to older ones corroding!

In reply to kipper12:

Gozo is your place.

In reply to kipper12:

We went in November and I loved it.
Buy a basic tourist road map and expect all car journeys to take longer than you expect.
Go directly onto the ferry from Malta to Gozo as you only pay as you return.
Go to the cinema and enjoy a journey back in time with a 1970s experience but with current films.
It may be too cold but if the sea is OK, visit Comino and discover a great snorkeling and DWS bay 10 mins walk (rightwards facing inland) from the arrival jetty.
Go somewhere else if you are just focused on climbing.

In reply to deepstar:

That's where I was thinking of! Was there last month, stunning place.

In reply to kipper12:

I'm going to Malta on a non climbing holiday in November. Is there any friendly dws that it is worth packing my rock shoes or buying a guide for? We ae staying in Mellieha area.
Thanks!

In reply to Si dH:
The aretes in the picture above are doable as DWS, the left Ar£te is hardest at the start and then is juggy all the way, the right Ar£te is easy and juggy and OK to down climb. Both are 3 stars. That picture makes it look much steeper and smoother than it actually is, though it is pretty highball!

In reply to DerwentDiluted:

Yep, I suppose really by 'friendly' what I really mean is no more than 4 or 5 metres above the sea...

In reply to Si dH:

See my comments about Comino. You arrive at the Blue lagoon which is worthwhile for a day trip in its own right and the boat trip is fun, especially to see the rock formations on the way back.
The DWS isn't necessarily in a guidebook, but the rock is juggy above deep water and you can get some great pictures.
Take a mask too as the cove is spectacular below the surface too. Temperatures of the sea in November were in the low 20s C, so fine for 20 mins or so.

In reply to Stairclimber:

Cool, ta