UKC

Due to my appalling sense of direction (which I obviously blame on skill fade due to an over-reliance on sat nav...) we found a potentially great possible new crag recently.

I'm dying to put up routes. We went there by accident, so going again isn't right as it would be trespassing.
The question is what to do, how do we find out who owns it and gain permission to climb there?

On the face of it these seem obvious questions, but I think there are nuances in how this is approached which could alter the outcome. The owner may be wanting to sell the site in the future and feel that climbers could devalue/detract from a sale (I don't think in this instance any negotiation would work and it would be best to wait until the site becomes owned by someone else), however if there are concerns over things like wild camping, liability, groups etc, then any initial approach needs to be well handled, and should the BMC be involved/contacted? What about bolts? There are probably plenty of trad lines, but some areas lend themselves to sport routes, would this need to go to some sort of committee?

It may have already been looked at, but has to be worth investigating, as it's not in a climbing hot spot. Any advice gratefully received!

In reply to Mattilda:
Saying roughly where it is may be a help. In Scotland? or England?

Have you looked the Crag up on here??

There's little that hasn't already been climbed already.

And I doubt you are so unique that you are the only one who has made the same mistake navigating.

In reply to Mattilda:

Trying to drive anywhere from where you are camping in the time you have Sunday and then doing a longish route on Blencathra is extremely optimistic IMO. In the few hours you have and assuming you are Patterdale based Id look at one of the valleys up towards Dollywagon Pike or Red Srees from Kirkstone or the hill just the other side of Ullswater who's name escapes me.

In reply to Dave Perry:




Ha ha! Thats what you think!

In reply to GrahamD:

Can't help feeling you intended to post this on the 'Short Lake District Objective' thread

In reply to Mattilda:

http://magic.defra.gov.uk/magicmap.aspx

Handy to see if its in an SSSI or national trust/woodland trust/FC land

In reply to Alyson:

The wonders of typing on a mobile phone

In reply to Mattilda:

Assuming you are in England / Wales it's likely your Crag is either in the middle of nowhere ( in which case it's access land and climbing is allowed whoever owns it) or else it'll be somewhere that people have already 'discovered'. Check the logbook Crag maps on here, and also the BMC RAD access database. If you are still convinced it's a brand new cliff contact your local BMC access officer and discuss it - they probably already know about the Crag and any issues.