UKC

Violent New Breed

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 Knut R. 07 Oct 2016

I was always impressed by the images of Gaskins on this climb, and how bloody impossible it looked. And the size of the blood vessels on his forehead as he was pulling on those crimps.

Did anyone ever repeat? Has anyone tried? Just curious.

We're 12 years on from the FA, and it seemed to have been either forgotten or just slipped into lore.
Post edited at 19:23
Removed User 07 Oct 2016
In reply to shouldbebetter:

Manolo's masterpiece Malvasia was only repeated 21 years after FA, so there's still hope

There are routes that are just too specific for most of the climbers. Akira comes to mind.. and that Le Bombe Bleu project in Buoux, also Mandallaz Drive...and I guess Violent New Breed is one of those routes as well
 1poundSOCKS 07 Oct 2016
In reply to Removed UserZebdi:

And Mutation unrepeated since 1998.
 bouldery bits 07 Oct 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> And Mutation unrepeated since 1998.

Wow, really? You'd think some one would have had a proper go by now?
 Andy Farnell 07 Oct 2016
In reply to bouldery bits:

> Wow, really? You'd think some one would have had a proper go by now?

Many have. All have failed.

Andy F
 bouldery bits 07 Oct 2016
In reply to andy farnell:

> Many have. All have failed.

> Andy F

Even more impressive - certainly 9a then?
 1poundSOCKS 07 Oct 2016
In reply to bouldery bits:

> Even more impressive - certainly 9a then?

Seemingly, and not an easy one. I think I read Steve McClure said it could be 9a+. Which would be impressive anyway, but in 1998 even more so. But obviously without much consensus, it's the usual speculation.
 Lemony 07 Oct 2016
In reply to shouldbebetter:

Go on then, I'm drunk. Is this not filed in the drawer marked "can of worms"?
OP Knut R. 07 Oct 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Did not realize that. Nails.
 tom84 07 Oct 2016
In reply to andy farnell:

apparently sharma tried it and said 'i could never climb this route' or words to the effect. theres a good clip on the dvd 'psyche' and the holds look really disappointing....
 aln 07 Oct 2016
In reply to tom84:

> the holds look really disappointing....

Do they look too big?

 stp 08 Oct 2016
In reply to bouldery bits:

>
> Wow, really? You'd think some one would have had a proper go by now?

Even Evolution, the 8c+ first section of Mutation, has only had a small handful of ascents. And Raven Tor is really accessible with lots of routes - so plenty of potential partners for long term projecting.

The G-spot is very different, with only 4 sport routes in total. Getting potential partners for a hard project there is going to be a nightmare. And isn't VNB basically an extended boulder problem with a rope? Perhaps not the most attractive route for most to want to spend a lot of time on.

Also worth adding that most of the UK's 9as have seen very few ascents, apart from Rainshadow, probably because they're 9a. Ondra did a good job making the only repeats of Overshadow and North Star so far, and Northern Lights which got a third ascent by Megos this year. These are all brilliant lines at popular crags.

 DaveHK 08 Oct 2016
In reply to stp:

> These are all brilliant lines at popular crags.

And VNB is neither of those.


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