/ South Wales Sport Guide

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The Ivanator - on 11 Oct 2016
Just wondering if anyone knows when the Rockfax South Wales Sport guide will be coming out. Rockfax website says October 2016 (as it has for a while), but as we are approaching halfway through the month and there is still no exact date or news of pre-publication sales I was wondering if there had been a delay?
Definitely awaiting the book keenly and looking forward to exploring some new crags, hopefully we'll have a mild dry Winter!
1
In reply to The Ivanator:

Hi

We are finishing off the book at this moment. To the printers on 24 October, which is when I'll start the pre-order offer. Aiming for publishing at the end of November and I doubt that will slip much now since we are committed to a printing date.

Cheers

Alan
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The Ivanator - on 11 Oct 2016
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

Cheers Alan! Just wondering are both Gilwern crags (Crag X on the hill and Gilwern East) going to be covered? I see you've updated the Rockfax site with the date information too - impressive efficiency!

Ivan
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bpmclimb on 11 Oct 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

> Cheers Alan! Just wondering are both Gilwern crags (Crag X on the hill and Gilwern East) going to be covered?


There's been a flurry of bolting activity on the left wing of Main Wall at Crag X in the last few weeks: it seems likely that it was catalysed by the prospect of inclusion in the upcoming guidebook (although I am guessing about that). Nice to see the development - although I do wish the drillers had taken the trouble to brush all the dust off rather than leave it to turn to paste on the holds.

If the smaller wall to the right is to be included, I hope all the bolted lines will be described. As far as I can see, UKC currently has the most up-to-date list , but even so it's still missing an entry for one set of bolts - as things stand it's difficult to be sure which route is which.



1
In reply to The Ivanator:

> Cheers Alan! Just wondering are both Gilwern crags (Crag X on the hill and Gilwern East) going to be covered? I see you've updated the Rockfax site with the date information too - impressive efficiency!

We have added a few new routes both Gilwern and at Castle upon Alun in the last week or so. I think we are up-to-date but obviously there will be a cut off point.

Alan
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bpmclimb on 21 Oct 2016
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

Hi Alan. We climbed the two new lines on Main Wall today. Black Tide seemed solid and fair at the grade, but Porcellana seemed a notch harder, and unfortunately we encountered quite a bit of loose rock - in particular just below bolt 2 and again on the slight rib left of the last bolt, plus various crimps in the upper corner which just crumbled away under the fingers Also, when seconding my partner was doing the final tricky move and pulled off a big projecting hold, which landed her on the rope and nearly brained me. I know we expect new routes to take a little while to settle down, but this one seemed more than usually in need of a proper clean. Might be an idea to give it some extra attention - before someone gets squashed.

I also looked more closely at the N-facing wall to the right (re the missing line, what lower-offs are shared by what routes, etc). I'll let Paul know details for UKC; but if you're not already completely sorted, and if it would be of any use, I'm happy to send you info, too.
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The Ivanator - on 22 Oct 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

On a similar note to Brian's feedback a route I did a few months ago at Rhossili (Black Buttress area on the upper tier) certainly deserves a health warning if it is not too late:
Down In One (5a)
My notes:
A poor route. Pulled off a big chunk near the first bolt that fortunately missed my belayer. Generally dirty and broken by a big grassy ledge. Lower off is a single bolt in rock that is not beyond question, not recommended.

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