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Best spots in Spain for tufa and stalactite climbing?

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 dsauerbrun 14 Oct 2016
Hi All,

I'll be in spain for ~3 months starting nov 15th and I'm looking to get some beta on where to go. I'm from the states so I'm really psyched on hopping on some tufas and stalactites in the 6c-7a range.

From what I understand, el chorro is the go to spot, but I kind of want to save that for last(probably all of january), since it's supposed to be good in the winter.

I know Rodellar has a bunch of stuff but from what I understand I should be climbing a bit harder for it and it's beginning to get out of season, right?

What other awesome crags are there in Spain with a solid amount of tufa/stalactite climbing in my grade range? I'll probably be staying for at least 2.5 weeks in each spot if that info is useful at all.

Thanks,
Dan
 1poundSOCKS 14 Oct 2016
In reply to dsauerbrun:

Possibly Chulilla, I haven't been. Don't think Rodellar is a winter destination.
 snoop6060 14 Oct 2016
In reply to dsauerbrun:
Well, regardless of grade, make sure you go to Les Bruixes at Terradets when it warms up and drys out a bit.

Terradets

Gets going at 7b really but don't let that put you off, its incredible.

Rodeller will be a bit wet, its more of summer place.

Edit: just noticed your talking nov/dec/jan - go there first!
Post edited at 16:38
 heleno 15 Oct 2016
In reply to dsauerbrun:

If you hit a decent spell of weather for the time of year check out Asturias destinations like Rumenes, Poo de Cabrales and Teverga.

See the Roca Verde guide or this artcle http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=8501
 The Ivanator 15 Oct 2016
In reply to dsauerbrun:

Gandia can be a good winter venue and has some top tufa climbs in your specified grade range.
OP dsauerbrun 15 Oct 2016
In reply to heleno:
Asturias looks amazing! thanks!


Do you know if desfiladero de la hermida has a central area where it'd be easy to meet partners? Any beta on getting there without a car? I'm solo and out of a backpack :
Post edited at 15:46
 Sam Mayfield 16 Oct 2016
In reply to dsauerbrun:

Costa Blanca Bernia Magic Flute
Costa Blanca Sella wildside crag too many to mention!
Costa Blanca Forada, too many to mention!
Costa Blanca, Gandia, loads and loads

Do you get the idea, if my other half was here with me he would rattle of the grades and names, but Costa Blanca also have the best weather for the whole of Spain! Even El chorro although further South!

Enjoy and if you need partners contact The Orange House, Finestrat.

Sam Orange
 Rich Mayfield 16 Oct 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

It can be very cold up Rodellar, I've had snow up there in Nov and Mar.
 Rich Mayfield 16 Oct 2016
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Some of the newer crags like Boverdos or Aixorter are dripping with Tufas at that grade. Also try the Toix sea cliffs.
 heleno 16 Oct 2016
In reply to dsauerbrun:

> Do you know if desfiladero de la hermida has a central area where it'd be easy to meet partners? Any beta on getting there without a car? I'm solo and out of a backpack :

The Posada la Cuadrona advertises itself as 'the climbers' bar' but we didn't drink there as we were based near Potes. However if you're travelling solo I should warn you that the area is MUCH quieter than hotpots like Chulilla and margalef. This is part of its charm but it's probably harder to find partners especially as it's more a spring / autumn venue.

The valley seemed to have lots of buses while we were there two weeks ago but it's worth checking how many of these would still be running in the low.season.

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