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Morning FitClubbers, happy week 500!
I actually feel quite honoured to be posting the stats for this special week, that it has been going week in-week out for nigh on ten years is testament to the motivation and drive of all the members past and present, a big bunch of people who just want to improve themselves and help others improve too, well done everyone.
Be sure to let us know how you got on with your FC500 goals if you had any, and don’t feel like you have to abandon them if you didn’t manage it this week, an FC501 goal is just as valid!
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=651087
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week's posters:
Si dH - Such a shame to lose a week to illness, maybe your fingers will thank you…
Hms - Perhaps you need a single goal instead of hurling yourself at stuff? Seems a bit of a brute force approach
AJM - Having fun on the continent I hope!
TonyB - 20 days in El Chorro, sounds fantastic!
JayK - Good luck for the race! I’m confident we will see a FC500 goal from you
Bobling - Another sickie, boo! Are you feeling better this week?
Ally Smith - Do you have a target deadlift in mind? Like a % of bodyweight? I can barely do 100% bodyweight before I go into startled cat mode
Dandan - 1 week to go…
Biscuit - Good looking week, keep doing what you are doing i’d say.
Guy127917 - Ha! I’m getting myself a giant timer, sounds like a great idea!
Hokkyokusei - Great looking week, must be nice to be back into things, good luck for the half.
Curious Yellow - Stuck on Kalymnos, what a disaster…
Leeboy1985 - Glad work is calming down, looking forward to seeing what you got up to this week
Mrchewy - You’re really pushing on considering how short a time you have been back at it, i guess motivation is high?
D1 - Hope you found Reading better than your local wall! I quite like it there although everything under 6b seems soft and everything over 6b seems stiff to me
Mattrm - Sorry to hear that there is a chronic issue, but just acknowledging that you can now try to make the best of things could be a big positivity boost, best of luck.
Just Tintin - WCS sound great, I saw a few reports and it looked really exciting, I just need an MCS now! Sorry to hear about your mum, fingers crossed for her.
*FitClub 500 Goals*
It’s the 500th FitClub on the 16th of October and Tyler suggested coming up with a goal to achieve by then, possibly something you don’t usually do, or a goal aimed at a weakness of yours. Feel free to suggest your own goals or goals for other people based on what you know about them, anyone who completes their goal will be rewarded with a huge sense of self-satisfaction and a cheque for £2000.*
Tyler: Physio every day for a week with perfect form/ touch your toes
hms - do some steep bouldering with dynamic moves/get back on RHM
AJM - Get on 2x E5/ tick Cider Soak/ dog to top a Montserrat 8a+
Si dH - Do some offwidths/ boulder 7C
Ally Smith - do ToTG, do some deadlifts/bench bodyweight, cycle to work everyday for a week,
Luke Owens - do a 10 sessions of low end aero-cap before week 500
Dandan - Climb >7b slabby/technical/arete (struggling to find one local)
Biscuit - Techy slab head point
SteveM - 500 antag exercises in the week. (Easy!)
JustTintin - Jerrys Traverse and/or E3 lead
Ukb shark - Austrian Oak and a £2000 cheque
Ian Bell - Complete 7b+ pyramid
PlanetMarshall - No Sleep till Hammersmith 7a+
D1 - 7a either indoors or out
JayK - Sub 87 half marathon
Mrchewy - 500 press ups, 500 lunges etc, in a day?!
*Cheque for £2000 may not be genuine
I actually feel quite honoured to be posting the stats for this special week, that it has been going week in-week out for nigh on ten years is testament to the motivation and drive of all the members past and present, a big bunch of people who just want to improve themselves and help others improve too, well done everyone.
Be sure to let us know how you got on with your FC500 goals if you had any, and don’t feel like you have to abandon them if you didn’t manage it this week, an FC501 goal is just as valid!
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=651087
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week's posters:
Si dH - Such a shame to lose a week to illness, maybe your fingers will thank you…
Hms - Perhaps you need a single goal instead of hurling yourself at stuff? Seems a bit of a brute force approach
AJM - Having fun on the continent I hope!
TonyB - 20 days in El Chorro, sounds fantastic!
JayK - Good luck for the race! I’m confident we will see a FC500 goal from you
Bobling - Another sickie, boo! Are you feeling better this week?
Ally Smith - Do you have a target deadlift in mind? Like a % of bodyweight? I can barely do 100% bodyweight before I go into startled cat mode
Dandan - 1 week to go…
Biscuit - Good looking week, keep doing what you are doing i’d say.
Guy127917 - Ha! I’m getting myself a giant timer, sounds like a great idea!
Hokkyokusei - Great looking week, must be nice to be back into things, good luck for the half.
Curious Yellow - Stuck on Kalymnos, what a disaster…
Leeboy1985 - Glad work is calming down, looking forward to seeing what you got up to this week
Mrchewy - You’re really pushing on considering how short a time you have been back at it, i guess motivation is high?
D1 - Hope you found Reading better than your local wall! I quite like it there although everything under 6b seems soft and everything over 6b seems stiff to me
Mattrm - Sorry to hear that there is a chronic issue, but just acknowledging that you can now try to make the best of things could be a big positivity boost, best of luck.
Just Tintin - WCS sound great, I saw a few reports and it looked really exciting, I just need an MCS now! Sorry to hear about your mum, fingers crossed for her.
*FitClub 500 Goals*
It’s the 500th FitClub on the 16th of October and Tyler suggested coming up with a goal to achieve by then, possibly something you don’t usually do, or a goal aimed at a weakness of yours. Feel free to suggest your own goals or goals for other people based on what you know about them, anyone who completes their goal will be rewarded with a huge sense of self-satisfaction and a cheque for £2000.*
Tyler: Physio every day for a week with perfect form/ touch your toes
hms - do some steep bouldering with dynamic moves/get back on RHM
AJM - Get on 2x E5/ tick Cider Soak/ dog to top a Montserrat 8a+
Si dH - Do some offwidths/ boulder 7C
Ally Smith - do ToTG, do some deadlifts/bench bodyweight, cycle to work everyday for a week,
Luke Owens - do a 10 sessions of low end aero-cap before week 500
Dandan - Climb >7b slabby/technical/arete (struggling to find one local)
Biscuit - Techy slab head point
SteveM - 500 antag exercises in the week. (Easy!)
JustTintin - Jerrys Traverse and/or E3 lead
Ukb shark - Austrian Oak and a £2000 cheque
Ian Bell - Complete 7b+ pyramid
PlanetMarshall - No Sleep till Hammersmith 7a+
D1 - 7a either indoors or out
JayK - Sub 87 half marathon
Mrchewy - 500 press ups, 500 lunges etc, in a day?!
*Cheque for £2000 may not be genuine
3
In reply to Dandan:
Is anyone else keen to take on the stats for a while? I'm heading to Margalef this weekend so I need someone to fill in for at least two weeks if possible, but it would be nice to have a couple of months off if anyone fancies it?
Is anyone else keen to take on the stats for a while? I'm heading to Margalef this weekend so I need someone to fill in for at least two weeks if possible, but it would be nice to have a couple of months off if anyone fancies it?
In reply to Dandan:
So I guess I ought to at least hoof some goals up ready for next week. Tho I've not actually done anything this week. So they are:
1 yoga session
1 climbing session
STG - Get back into doing some exercise
MTG - Back to VS
LTG - Western Front Direct (target for next summer)
So I guess I ought to at least hoof some goals up ready for next week. Tho I've not actually done anything this week. So they are:
1 yoga session
1 climbing session
STG - Get back into doing some exercise
MTG - Back to VS
LTG - Western Front Direct (target for next summer)
In reply to Dandan:
Interesting week. I caught a cold Monday evening and it knocked me out until Friday - coinciding with an extremely busy week at work. Meant that I didn't do any climbing/core or running tapering for the run today.
M-8miler. Good pacing.
T-Rest/Work
W-Rest
T-Rest
F-Rest
S-BBC 4th Birthday comp. Flashed 23 of 24 problems and did the 24th second go! Feeling very good at the moment. Also booked the Channel Tunnel for Font next Friday!
S-Birmingham Half Marathon. Made it round in 87:05 (211th). So almost perfect pacing on the day (albeit slightly over the FC 500 goal). The ground was very wet indeed but it didn't rain for the entirety. Which was extremely lucky considering the forecast was heavy rain 9-12. Excellent support from everyone all the way round - glad I entered 3 weeks ago, perfect end to the 8 week training plan. Both climbing and running are looking good despite it being the end of term - extremely happy.
Interesting week. I caught a cold Monday evening and it knocked me out until Friday - coinciding with an extremely busy week at work. Meant that I didn't do any climbing/core or running tapering for the run today.
M-8miler. Good pacing.
T-Rest/Work
W-Rest
T-Rest
F-Rest
S-BBC 4th Birthday comp. Flashed 23 of 24 problems and did the 24th second go! Feeling very good at the moment. Also booked the Channel Tunnel for Font next Friday!
S-Birmingham Half Marathon. Made it round in 87:05 (211th). So almost perfect pacing on the day (albeit slightly over the FC 500 goal). The ground was very wet indeed but it didn't rain for the entirety. Which was extremely lucky considering the forecast was heavy rain 9-12. Excellent support from everyone all the way round - glad I entered 3 weeks ago, perfect end to the 8 week training plan. Both climbing and running are looking good despite it being the end of term - extremely happy.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. The goal is as ever not a single goal - I've been trying to keep stamina up for Spain long weekend in 10 days time, whilst also starting to do a more bouldering as a longer term goal is just getting brute strength up. The reason I said keep hurling at stuff was because it is so darn easy to slip back to just being in the comfort zone. I could happily on-sight 6c every session, but that really isn't going to stretch me physically or mentally. I struggle to make myself try the harder routes cos I fear I won't get up them - but I know I have to make myself do it even if my ego does get bruised on occasion.
M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening, which was doing core. Evidently all my Tom core sessions must have achieved something cos I think I was the person there whinging/groaning the least!
T - cycle commute. Redpoint in evening with D1. Retried a 7a from weekend. Absolutely not my style ultra-steep, but got the technique much better using outside edging to improve reach & body position. Still didn't get it but felt far more steady. Also tried an ultra-steep 7b. Got all the moves except a huge chuck in the middle, where I was struggling to find an appropriate foot to launch from.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Annoying session as the new route setter had about 1/3 of the lead lines cordoned off, at peak evening time. Managed to elbow in to have 1 go on the 7b I'd tried before. Touched the penultimate hold. Didn't then get back on the line due to the rabble of bodies.
T - cycle commute. weights, stretching & rehab
F - shunting at Armistice. Made a rookie error & got the crawler stuck at the top whilst putting the rope up, so had to jug up it again after releasing the bottom. Therefore only time for 1 proper shunting try of the moves. Think I now have all the hands but not the foot & body positions to make them all work yet. Several undercuts which are hard to get up onto. Feels every bit 7c I must say!
S - Cheddar with D1. Brief try on a 7b which we will draw a veil over. She then bullied me onto Sweet Tufa. It has some interesting moves but needs a darn good clean. The crux bits seem to be crimps, too. Sadly on my second play it started raining, which turned very heavy indeed. Had to rapidly strip it then beat a very careful retreat - I had to ab off as the safest way with an big rucksack on.
S - core & rehab
Finger is currently feeling pretty good. Right shoulder is anything but - it is hurting a worrying amount, even with the tons of focused rehab I'm doing (and the tons of ibuprofen I'm gobbling). When I'm back from Spain I think a visit to Nina is long overdue.
Thanks Dan. The goal is as ever not a single goal - I've been trying to keep stamina up for Spain long weekend in 10 days time, whilst also starting to do a more bouldering as a longer term goal is just getting brute strength up. The reason I said keep hurling at stuff was because it is so darn easy to slip back to just being in the comfort zone. I could happily on-sight 6c every session, but that really isn't going to stretch me physically or mentally. I struggle to make myself try the harder routes cos I fear I won't get up them - but I know I have to make myself do it even if my ego does get bruised on occasion.
M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening, which was doing core. Evidently all my Tom core sessions must have achieved something cos I think I was the person there whinging/groaning the least!
T - cycle commute. Redpoint in evening with D1. Retried a 7a from weekend. Absolutely not my style ultra-steep, but got the technique much better using outside edging to improve reach & body position. Still didn't get it but felt far more steady. Also tried an ultra-steep 7b. Got all the moves except a huge chuck in the middle, where I was struggling to find an appropriate foot to launch from.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Annoying session as the new route setter had about 1/3 of the lead lines cordoned off, at peak evening time. Managed to elbow in to have 1 go on the 7b I'd tried before. Touched the penultimate hold. Didn't then get back on the line due to the rabble of bodies.
T - cycle commute. weights, stretching & rehab
F - shunting at Armistice. Made a rookie error & got the crawler stuck at the top whilst putting the rope up, so had to jug up it again after releasing the bottom. Therefore only time for 1 proper shunting try of the moves. Think I now have all the hands but not the foot & body positions to make them all work yet. Several undercuts which are hard to get up onto. Feels every bit 7c I must say!
S - Cheddar with D1. Brief try on a 7b which we will draw a veil over. She then bullied me onto Sweet Tufa. It has some interesting moves but needs a darn good clean. The crux bits seem to be crimps, too. Sadly on my second play it started raining, which turned very heavy indeed. Had to rapidly strip it then beat a very careful retreat - I had to ab off as the safest way with an big rucksack on.
S - core & rehab
Finger is currently feeling pretty good. Right shoulder is anything but - it is hurting a worrying amount, even with the tons of focused rehab I'm doing (and the tons of ibuprofen I'm gobbling). When I'm back from Spain I think a visit to Nina is long overdue.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan - MTG is to bench and Deadlift 100% bodyweight; trying to master some good form at the moment, and hence do a little conditioning before upping the weights.
Week 42:
M - Got stung by a wasp on the hand which swelled up; went to CyL anyway. Greasy as the sun set and had to fight to get into Wobbly Block. Fell off the same move as Saturday (crux cross-over in Mr Skin) and ripped another hole in my pinky. As per Saturday – pulled back on after a rest and this time did the full link of high-break to the end, nailing LowLife with my new beta. Skin trashed.
T - Rest. 20x deadlift @ 15kg
W - London daytrip, with knackedness exacerbated by a run of late nights/early starts. Had power nap, then went to the tor to boulder by lamplight. Played on a bunch of things, but chuffed to do matchbox rockover without the intermediate and Perverse Reverse, 7B in a few goes.
T - yoga
F - Rest. 20x deadlift @ 15kg
S - Shopping then CyL at 3pm. Good connies despite earlier mist. Fell off the same b*stard move going into Mr Skin. Got some new beta and did Middle Bit Plus (7c+) to cement in the new beta (move the feet across first, and do big roll over into Egyptian)
S - Early rain, then Mam Tor walk with the lady – 10km ish – probably last walk before trekking in Jordan in 2 weeks time.
Cheers Dan - MTG is to bench and Deadlift 100% bodyweight; trying to master some good form at the moment, and hence do a little conditioning before upping the weights.
Week 42:
M - Got stung by a wasp on the hand which swelled up; went to CyL anyway. Greasy as the sun set and had to fight to get into Wobbly Block. Fell off the same move as Saturday (crux cross-over in Mr Skin) and ripped another hole in my pinky. As per Saturday – pulled back on after a rest and this time did the full link of high-break to the end, nailing LowLife with my new beta. Skin trashed.
T - Rest. 20x deadlift @ 15kg
W - London daytrip, with knackedness exacerbated by a run of late nights/early starts. Had power nap, then went to the tor to boulder by lamplight. Played on a bunch of things, but chuffed to do matchbox rockover without the intermediate and Perverse Reverse, 7B in a few goes.
T - yoga
F - Rest. 20x deadlift @ 15kg
S - Shopping then CyL at 3pm. Good connies despite earlier mist. Fell off the same b*stard move going into Mr Skin. Got some new beta and did Middle Bit Plus (7c+) to cement in the new beta (move the feet across first, and do big roll over into Egyptian)
S - Early rain, then Mam Tor walk with the lady – 10km ish – probably last walk before trekking in Jordan in 2 weeks time.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
Yes, having an excellent time. Home tomorrow but in the day so just finished the last day climbing.
Montserrat is great. We stopped in for a few days on our van trip but with a really old guide and a schedule of people to meet on our way south we didn't stay for long. My enthusiasm was piqued again by Stu Littlefairs blog ( http://thesphericalcow.blogspot.com.es/2016/01/the-pinnacle-of-success.html... ). We also wanted to find a climbing destination with plenty of spectacular easy stuff and plenty of option for not climbing at all, since we had no idea whether mrsAJM would be able to climb or not at ~6 months pregnant. Staying in Barcelona has meant some slightly painful traffic but definitely gave us those options.
We did a bunch of easy multipitch stuff which was excellent. Unusual style of climbing, conglomerate pebbles, although if you imagine what good easy routes might look like at Riglos (if it had any) the easy routes would probably be a bit like that. The harder multipitch stuff is probably a bit like a more vertical and less tamed (as in run-outs and no permachalk and stuff, not exposure) version of riglos. The modern guide is very useful as its important to know whether the gear has been refreshed (modern staples or expansions) or not (anything down to rusty buriles from the fa) especially on the faces where there doesn't tend to be that much alternative gear.
We did some single pitch cragging (the harder stuff looks to be more pockety walls in style but it's a big place so there's a lot of variety) but my flexor strain from cider soak felt very tweaky so I didn't try anything hard.
Hardest lead was probably freeing the "6a+" (ho-ho-ho) aid bolt ladder on today's route at the "temple of sandbagging" (to quote the guide).
By way of summing up I am keen to go back both to try some of the bigger multipitch outings (adventure you can do for a weekend) and for the single pitch cragging, some of which looks like it would hold its own against far more well known venues.
I will blog Montserrat soon although for anyone who is interested my profile should link to the blog I wrote about Wendenstock and engelhorner on a wet day midweek.
So no FC500 goals achieved although I did give Cider soak my best. Would have got on the 8a+ but hurt myself in the process of trying CS. Hand didn't hurt today so unsure whether to try to get back on it - head says probably not but not sure....
Cheers Dan.
Yes, having an excellent time. Home tomorrow but in the day so just finished the last day climbing.
Montserrat is great. We stopped in for a few days on our van trip but with a really old guide and a schedule of people to meet on our way south we didn't stay for long. My enthusiasm was piqued again by Stu Littlefairs blog ( http://thesphericalcow.blogspot.com.es/2016/01/the-pinnacle-of-success.html... ). We also wanted to find a climbing destination with plenty of spectacular easy stuff and plenty of option for not climbing at all, since we had no idea whether mrsAJM would be able to climb or not at ~6 months pregnant. Staying in Barcelona has meant some slightly painful traffic but definitely gave us those options.
We did a bunch of easy multipitch stuff which was excellent. Unusual style of climbing, conglomerate pebbles, although if you imagine what good easy routes might look like at Riglos (if it had any) the easy routes would probably be a bit like that. The harder multipitch stuff is probably a bit like a more vertical and less tamed (as in run-outs and no permachalk and stuff, not exposure) version of riglos. The modern guide is very useful as its important to know whether the gear has been refreshed (modern staples or expansions) or not (anything down to rusty buriles from the fa) especially on the faces where there doesn't tend to be that much alternative gear.
We did some single pitch cragging (the harder stuff looks to be more pockety walls in style but it's a big place so there's a lot of variety) but my flexor strain from cider soak felt very tweaky so I didn't try anything hard.
Hardest lead was probably freeing the "6a+" (ho-ho-ho) aid bolt ladder on today's route at the "temple of sandbagging" (to quote the guide).
By way of summing up I am keen to go back both to try some of the bigger multipitch outings (adventure you can do for a weekend) and for the single pitch cragging, some of which looks like it would hold its own against far more well known venues.
I will blog Montserrat soon although for anyone who is interested my profile should link to the blog I wrote about Wendenstock and engelhorner on a wet day midweek.
So no FC500 goals achieved although I did give Cider soak my best. Would have got on the 8a+ but hurt myself in the process of trying CS. Hand didn't hurt today so unsure whether to try to get back on it - head says probably not but not sure....
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheeers Dan,
A pretty reasonable training week for me. I didn't get everything done that I wanted to, but was pleased with the volume.
Mon - Hard bouldering + re-familiarisation with circuits
Tue - AeroPow on circuits, this went pretty badly and I overestimated what I could do. I remember from before, that when I hadn't done this for a while it was quite poor, but got better quickly.
Wed - 1 on 1off + a bit of unstructured bouldering
Thur - fun session with work colleagues, sort of active rest. We checked out a new wall. The bouldering was ok but the rope routes only went up to 6c+. I onsighted the 6c+ and 6c.
Fri - Hard bouldering. This was quite unstructured but good value. I worked on 7 routes in the V5-7 circuit and did four of them. Should have done circuits too, but got too absorbed in bouldering.
Sat - Bouldering at the plantation. Really fun session. I tried Deliverance (f7B+). I had never thought that I would be able to climb that grade, but I put in a reasonable effort on it. I know that the dyno at the top is the crux, but I was pleased to be able to get to setting up for the dyno most times. I gave two goes To Be or Not to Be (f7A+) whilst there was a stack of pads from other people. I didn't get it but it felt like it could easily go. I finished with Spur Traverse (f7A), which when I had the beta, felt quite comfortable. Really fun session, and would be keen to go back.
Sun - mostly rest and went to Alton Towers with the family. Won a ridiculously large teddy in a what was essentially a deadhanging competition. You had to hang a fairly thin bar for 2 minutes. I can see how this would be challenging for the general public, but thought it was pretty easy for a climber.
I've got a long flight to China next week, and won't have access to climbing facilities. I'll try and get as much conditioning done as possible, but the next two weeks are going to be very poor on my part.
Cheeers Dan,
A pretty reasonable training week for me. I didn't get everything done that I wanted to, but was pleased with the volume.
Mon - Hard bouldering + re-familiarisation with circuits
Tue - AeroPow on circuits, this went pretty badly and I overestimated what I could do. I remember from before, that when I hadn't done this for a while it was quite poor, but got better quickly.
Wed - 1 on 1off + a bit of unstructured bouldering
Thur - fun session with work colleagues, sort of active rest. We checked out a new wall. The bouldering was ok but the rope routes only went up to 6c+. I onsighted the 6c+ and 6c.
Fri - Hard bouldering. This was quite unstructured but good value. I worked on 7 routes in the V5-7 circuit and did four of them. Should have done circuits too, but got too absorbed in bouldering.
Sat - Bouldering at the plantation. Really fun session. I tried Deliverance (f7B+). I had never thought that I would be able to climb that grade, but I put in a reasonable effort on it. I know that the dyno at the top is the crux, but I was pleased to be able to get to setting up for the dyno most times. I gave two goes To Be or Not to Be (f7A+) whilst there was a stack of pads from other people. I didn't get it but it felt like it could easily go. I finished with Spur Traverse (f7A), which when I had the beta, felt quite comfortable. Really fun session, and would be keen to go back.
Sun - mostly rest and went to Alton Towers with the family. Won a ridiculously large teddy in a what was essentially a deadhanging competition. You had to hang a fairly thin bar for 2 minutes. I can see how this would be challenging for the general public, but thought it was pretty easy for a climber.
I've got a long flight to China next week, and won't have access to climbing facilities. I'll try and get as much conditioning done as possible, but the next two weeks are going to be very poor on my part.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Sorry Dan, a bad week for me again, same as last week. Still not 100% kicked this cold.
M-T: travel/work in US
F:rest/cold/long day in office catching up
S: PiB. Similar performance to last week or slightly worse. Running pleghm still.
S: rest.
Hoping I'll get better and rock will stay dry for a session mid week.
Si
Ps. No attempt made at any offwidths but I promise to try one over grit season if I don't manage 7C.
Sorry Dan, a bad week for me again, same as last week. Still not 100% kicked this cold.
M-T: travel/work in US
F:rest/cold/long day in office catching up
S: PiB. Similar performance to last week or slightly worse. Running pleghm still.
S: rest.
Hoping I'll get better and rock will stay dry for a session mid week.
Si
Ps. No attempt made at any offwidths but I promise to try one over grit season if I don't manage 7C.
Post edited at 20:34
In reply to Dandan:
Motivated? I'm not so sure yet as to what for though - sorta lost my way this last twelve months, I've had to totally re-evaluate everything, from motivations, climbing style and what I can realistically accomplish, even down to what makes me genuinely happy. So I really don't have any idea at the moment what goals to set and work towards. It feels like I'm trying to tread water in the best way I can and waiting for a bit of inspiration.
Mon - Cycled 19 miles on mtb @ 6 miles off road.
Tue - Rest
Wed - PM Pinnacle for rope climbing… led 4+ (pumped) 5+ (pumped) 6a (boxed). Tried a 5+ through a roof, gave up. Then a 5+ and 6a+ back to back and scraped through by the skin of my teeth. Evening over. Totally mullered.
Thu - AM conditioning 45 min PM 1hr Homeboard traversing around. 80-160sec at a time, then 5 minutes rest before going again. Forearms solid.
Fri - PM 1hr conditioning
Sat - 33.5mile @ 15.8mph ave. Super disappointed after, as started brightly, was going as well up the hills as I ever have and then the lower thoracic just went into spasm. Kept going as had to get back somehow but it wasn't fun.
Sun - PM Belayed at the wall due to the back being 'fragile'. Maybe 2hrs stretching spread through out the day.
Failed on the Fit500 thing - back was a non player today sadly. Hope others have done better.
Lots of reasons why the back complained yesterday but I guess the biggest one was spending the day rolling ceilings on Friday. First time in a while and was maybe a bit too much with the other stuff I've been up to.
Climbing on a rope highlighted the total lack of endurance, way down but an easy fix. Left the whole middle spine area feeling locked up and sore the next morning and perhaps getting on the homeboard the day after wasn't so wise either.
Worst bit of the week was getting the van back after two months in the garage, taking it for a successful 60 mile spin and then the gearbox failing. Spain this winter is looking less likely with every expensive breaking part. So decided, if the van does stop a longer trip happening, I'll head to Cornudella in March for a couple of weeks and Albarracin in probably January for a week.
So a week that started brightly but ended in the twilight somehow. This week, I think I'll focus on stretching and mobility and start doing hangboard time.
Motivated? I'm not so sure yet as to what for though - sorta lost my way this last twelve months, I've had to totally re-evaluate everything, from motivations, climbing style and what I can realistically accomplish, even down to what makes me genuinely happy. So I really don't have any idea at the moment what goals to set and work towards. It feels like I'm trying to tread water in the best way I can and waiting for a bit of inspiration.
Mon - Cycled 19 miles on mtb @ 6 miles off road.
Tue - Rest
Wed - PM Pinnacle for rope climbing… led 4+ (pumped) 5+ (pumped) 6a (boxed). Tried a 5+ through a roof, gave up. Then a 5+ and 6a+ back to back and scraped through by the skin of my teeth. Evening over. Totally mullered.
Thu - AM conditioning 45 min PM 1hr Homeboard traversing around. 80-160sec at a time, then 5 minutes rest before going again. Forearms solid.
Fri - PM 1hr conditioning
Sat - 33.5mile @ 15.8mph ave. Super disappointed after, as started brightly, was going as well up the hills as I ever have and then the lower thoracic just went into spasm. Kept going as had to get back somehow but it wasn't fun.
Sun - PM Belayed at the wall due to the back being 'fragile'. Maybe 2hrs stretching spread through out the day.
Failed on the Fit500 thing - back was a non player today sadly. Hope others have done better.
Lots of reasons why the back complained yesterday but I guess the biggest one was spending the day rolling ceilings on Friday. First time in a while and was maybe a bit too much with the other stuff I've been up to.
Climbing on a rope highlighted the total lack of endurance, way down but an easy fix. Left the whole middle spine area feeling locked up and sore the next morning and perhaps getting on the homeboard the day after wasn't so wise either.
Worst bit of the week was getting the van back after two months in the garage, taking it for a successful 60 mile spin and then the gearbox failing. Spain this winter is looking less likely with every expensive breaking part. So decided, if the van does stop a longer trip happening, I'll head to Cornudella in March for a couple of weeks and Albarracin in probably January for a week.
So a week that started brightly but ended in the twilight somehow. This week, I think I'll focus on stretching and mobility and start doing hangboard time.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. I don't mind picking up the weekly posting if no-one else wants to.
Mon: Rest day
Tues: Gym session, same routine as previous, upped weights by ~5%
Weds: Mixed bouldering session, completed a couple of v4-6 circuit routes I'd previously struggled on
Thurs: Crack climbing training-
4x doubles on layback arete,
3x doubles on jamming crack
2x 5 minutes mixed face climbing with feet only smears and crack
Friday: Rest day
Saturday: Gym session same weights as tues
Sunday: Mixed bouldering, got my 3rd v5 and flashed a couple of the new v4-6 circuit in the loft
I need to up my training for sport climbing, currently getting drawn in by bouldering with mates. Also failed to get a core workout in this week. On the other hand I do feel like I'm breaking through my v4 plateau so not all bad.
Thanks Dan. I don't mind picking up the weekly posting if no-one else wants to.
Mon: Rest day
Tues: Gym session, same routine as previous, upped weights by ~5%
Weds: Mixed bouldering session, completed a couple of v4-6 circuit routes I'd previously struggled on
Thurs: Crack climbing training-
4x doubles on layback arete,
3x doubles on jamming crack
2x 5 minutes mixed face climbing with feet only smears and crack
Friday: Rest day
Saturday: Gym session same weights as tues
Sunday: Mixed bouldering, got my 3rd v5 and flashed a couple of the new v4-6 circuit in the loft
I need to up my training for sport climbing, currently getting drawn in by bouldering with mates. Also failed to get a core workout in this week. On the other hand I do feel like I'm breaking through my v4 plateau so not all bad.
4
In reply to guy127917:
After an exhaustive selection process, you get the job.
I'll send you a message about the pension and dental plan and the expense account.
> Thanks Dan. I don't mind picking up the weekly posting if no-one else wants to.
After an exhaustive selection process, you get the job.
I'll send you a message about the pension and dental plan and the expense account.
5
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, full on training week with extra added DIY for me, I'm so glad I'm on a mini taper week for Margalef now!
M: Core
T: 12 move boulder at V6/7, 4 reps with 2.5 min rest between reps. 1.5 sets
6 move boulder at V6, 3 reps with 5 and 15 sec rest, 3 sets
W: Cap-Pow transition, 7b climbed in back to back doubles, 3 sets
1 on 2 off at 7a+, 5 reps
T: 10 move V6, 4 reps with 20 sec rest, 4 sets. Dropped to V5 for 3rd and 4th set, failed miserably on 4th set, serious power fade!
F: DIY Club, finally laid my slab! Unbelievably hard work, totally knackered afterwards, I was still floating the surface at 9pm with a headtorch!
S: Polarised Continuity, up 7a+, shake out at top, 4 mins on 6a or lower, 5 sets.
S: Rings and bar, forgot to do core session, oops.
A good week for training, if being steadily more and more knackered every session constitutes good training. The elbows have been fine though, which is great news, especially when I did 3 days on climbing mid week.
We didn't manage to get outside on Saturday, I would attribute it to the weather but we were pretty busy too, so no FC500 tick for me, although I guess I get half a tick for at least trying a thin technical route when we got out 3 weeks ago?
Injury status is looking pretty decent, the only real issue I currently have is one slightly swollen knuckle, it doesn't hurt to climb on but aches afterwards, I can pull straight on it no problem at all but it doesn't like lateral movement so much, I've no idea what it is, I feel like I'm a bit young for Arthritis, hope its not that.
STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day - Fail, 3/7
Get outside 1 more time before Margalef - Fail
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) in Margalef
Have a good go at Dr Feelgood (8a)
Find some projects for Margalef next April
Flash attempt on the current 8a at Warwick uni
MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Get outside if weather allows
8a if not in Margalef then get back and finish off Fighting Torque (8a)
LTG: (next Year)
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, see if it has all been worthwhile
Thanks me, full on training week with extra added DIY for me, I'm so glad I'm on a mini taper week for Margalef now!
M: Core
T: 12 move boulder at V6/7, 4 reps with 2.5 min rest between reps. 1.5 sets
6 move boulder at V6, 3 reps with 5 and 15 sec rest, 3 sets
W: Cap-Pow transition, 7b climbed in back to back doubles, 3 sets
1 on 2 off at 7a+, 5 reps
T: 10 move V6, 4 reps with 20 sec rest, 4 sets. Dropped to V5 for 3rd and 4th set, failed miserably on 4th set, serious power fade!
F: DIY Club, finally laid my slab! Unbelievably hard work, totally knackered afterwards, I was still floating the surface at 9pm with a headtorch!
S: Polarised Continuity, up 7a+, shake out at top, 4 mins on 6a or lower, 5 sets.
S: Rings and bar, forgot to do core session, oops.
A good week for training, if being steadily more and more knackered every session constitutes good training. The elbows have been fine though, which is great news, especially when I did 3 days on climbing mid week.
We didn't manage to get outside on Saturday, I would attribute it to the weather but we were pretty busy too, so no FC500 tick for me, although I guess I get half a tick for at least trying a thin technical route when we got out 3 weeks ago?
Injury status is looking pretty decent, the only real issue I currently have is one slightly swollen knuckle, it doesn't hurt to climb on but aches afterwards, I can pull straight on it no problem at all but it doesn't like lateral movement so much, I've no idea what it is, I feel like I'm a bit young for Arthritis, hope its not that.
STG:
Stretch hamstrings every day - Fail, 3/7
Get outside 1 more time before Margalef - Fail
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) in Margalef
Have a good go at Dr Feelgood (8a)
Find some projects for Margalef next April
Flash attempt on the current 8a at Warwick uni
MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Get outside if weather allows
8a if not in Margalef then get back and finish off Fighting Torque (8a)
LTG: (next Year)
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, see if it has all been worthwhile
Post edited at 09:38
1
In reply to Dandan:
Oops, I missed last week being away for work. Here's 2 for the price of 1.
STG (end of Oct)
On a climbing weekend, get on at least one E1
Local HVS ticklist: Demon Wall, Great Western, Botterill's Crack, Minion's Way
Fall off indoors
Abbey Dash 10k - do stretches & heel raises to get to the start line
Do one of either bike commuting or skifit a week
MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule
LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again
BHAG
Big wall solo
The missing week (499) was
Mon Nothing, busy day at work
Tue Lunchtime trail run 30mins then leading at Leeds Wall. Top roped F7a with one rest and led the main wall F5+ with one rest too.
Wed Soloing at Almscliff, ticked 20+ climbs in a short visit. Went to see Reel Rock 11 afterwards and was super-psyched!
Thu Nothing, work and driving down south to see the not-in-laws.
Fri Nothing, seized back.
Sat Back exercises, short walk
Sun Back exercises, getting better
And last week (500) was
Mon Nothing, flying to Toronto, stretching
Tue 60 mins in the gym, cross-trainer and bike
Wed 30 mins in the gym, bike only. Easy bouldering at Joe's Rocklands
Thu Nothing, flying home
Fri Nothing, jet lagged. Saw the physio about my sore back and Achilles. Heel raises.
Sat DIY and easy bouldering at Almscliff.
Sun Nothing, still knackered. Heel raises.
I'm not feeling any less tired this morning. No signs of illness but my sleep has been all over the place since Thursday when I hurt my back. Early bed tonight.
Oops, I missed last week being away for work. Here's 2 for the price of 1.
STG (end of Oct)
On a climbing weekend, get on at least one E1
Local HVS ticklist: Demon Wall, Great Western, Botterill's Crack, Minion's Way
Fall off indoors
Abbey Dash 10k - do stretches & heel raises to get to the start line
Do one of either bike commuting or skifit a week
MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule
LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again
BHAG
Big wall solo
The missing week (499) was
Mon Nothing, busy day at work
Tue Lunchtime trail run 30mins then leading at Leeds Wall. Top roped F7a with one rest and led the main wall F5+ with one rest too.
Wed Soloing at Almscliff, ticked 20+ climbs in a short visit. Went to see Reel Rock 11 afterwards and was super-psyched!
Thu Nothing, work and driving down south to see the not-in-laws.
Fri Nothing, seized back.
Sat Back exercises, short walk
Sun Back exercises, getting better
And last week (500) was
Mon Nothing, flying to Toronto, stretching
Tue 60 mins in the gym, cross-trainer and bike
Wed 30 mins in the gym, bike only. Easy bouldering at Joe's Rocklands
Thu Nothing, flying home
Fri Nothing, jet lagged. Saw the physio about my sore back and Achilles. Heel raises.
Sat DIY and easy bouldering at Almscliff.
Sun Nothing, still knackered. Heel raises.
I'm not feeling any less tired this morning. No signs of illness but my sleep has been all over the place since Thursday when I hurt my back. Early bed tonight.
Post edited at 09:46
In reply to Dandan:
A poor week for me, still trying to get into a good routine - I don't know how you city types do it!
Thu - The Belgian climbing wall tour continues, this time at 'Stone Age' in Brussels. Apparently indoor walls were pretty much invented in Belgium, but they don't seem to have moved on much since then. They're all small, overcrowded and top rope only. It's a shame because there's some imaginative route setting - and the grades are nails compared to what I'm used to. The competition wall at Puurs is really impressive, but as it's outside it's a bit late in the year to be making use of it. Suspect I'll be mostly sticking to the bouldering wall over the Winter.
Sat - Trail run/16km/700m. Drove out La Roche-en-Ardenne in search of some hills. A bit like the peak district but with more trees. Some impressively steep ground.
STG - Get back into a routine. There's a CrossFit gym next to the bouldering wall in Herent so I've arranged to make use of their facilities to do some strength work. I should be able to come up with some imaginative combined bouldering/free weights workout.
MTG - Looks like it'll be mostly bouldering and strength work over the Winter. Not making any concrete plans until the end of my contract in February - other than a weekend in Font in November. Hope to also get away for some Winter sun at some point.
LTG - 2017
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Something at Kalymnos
BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska
A poor week for me, still trying to get into a good routine - I don't know how you city types do it!
Thu - The Belgian climbing wall tour continues, this time at 'Stone Age' in Brussels. Apparently indoor walls were pretty much invented in Belgium, but they don't seem to have moved on much since then. They're all small, overcrowded and top rope only. It's a shame because there's some imaginative route setting - and the grades are nails compared to what I'm used to. The competition wall at Puurs is really impressive, but as it's outside it's a bit late in the year to be making use of it. Suspect I'll be mostly sticking to the bouldering wall over the Winter.
Sat - Trail run/16km/700m. Drove out La Roche-en-Ardenne in search of some hills. A bit like the peak district but with more trees. Some impressively steep ground.
STG - Get back into a routine. There's a CrossFit gym next to the bouldering wall in Herent so I've arranged to make use of their facilities to do some strength work. I should be able to come up with some imaginative combined bouldering/free weights workout.
MTG - Looks like it'll be mostly bouldering and strength work over the Winter. Not making any concrete plans until the end of my contract in February - other than a weekend in Font in November. Hope to also get away for some Winter sun at some point.
LTG - 2017
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Something at Kalymnos
BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska
Post edited at 10:31
In reply to planetmarshall:
Hi all
STG - Get outside when I can
MTG = Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Back from Kalymnos now, I won't do a blow by blow account but the salient points.
- first week of coaching was rock and sun rather than rocup in the end due to cancellation. Picked up some useful footwork tips which hopefully will help if I stay focused and keep applying them.
- flashed 3 7as (Igel (Direct) (7a), Diagoras (7a), Baden Mit und Ohne (7a)) and RPd another (Ermix (7a)).
- did Joggel & Toggel (6c+) which was a brilliant, steep tufa route and my antistyle 2nd go. Def felt 7a.
- didn't manage anything harder than 7a although close on a couple incl a 7b.
- visited some new crags incl Secret Garden (great tufa on the main wall), Arginota Valley (decent routes and handy afternoon shade) and Palionisis Bay (very pretty and nice routes but in the sun by 10am)
- said hello to Curious Yellow
- my girlfriend did her first 2 7as
- ate and drank a lot
Overall a good holiday although a bit disappointing I didn't climb any higher numbers. In week 2 came close to the 7b with a couple of sessions but not quite. On the plus side across the 2 weeks I did enjoy getting on some steeper routes than I usually would.
Have kept the same goal for the rest of the year although my pyramid looks rather flat at the base and not very pointy at the moment! Will keep trying to sneak in the odd day outside in the UK as the weather changes, going to a wedding near Bath on Sat so hoping to get outside on the Sunday.
Hi all
STG - Get outside when I can
MTG = Keep filling up 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 9x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Back from Kalymnos now, I won't do a blow by blow account but the salient points.
- first week of coaching was rock and sun rather than rocup in the end due to cancellation. Picked up some useful footwork tips which hopefully will help if I stay focused and keep applying them.
- flashed 3 7as (Igel (Direct) (7a), Diagoras (7a), Baden Mit und Ohne (7a)) and RPd another (Ermix (7a)).
- did Joggel & Toggel (6c+) which was a brilliant, steep tufa route and my antistyle 2nd go. Def felt 7a.
- didn't manage anything harder than 7a although close on a couple incl a 7b.
- visited some new crags incl Secret Garden (great tufa on the main wall), Arginota Valley (decent routes and handy afternoon shade) and Palionisis Bay (very pretty and nice routes but in the sun by 10am)
- said hello to Curious Yellow
- my girlfriend did her first 2 7as
- ate and drank a lot
Overall a good holiday although a bit disappointing I didn't climb any higher numbers. In week 2 came close to the 7b with a couple of sessions but not quite. On the plus side across the 2 weeks I did enjoy getting on some steeper routes than I usually would.
Have kept the same goal for the rest of the year although my pyramid looks rather flat at the base and not very pointy at the moment! Will keep trying to sneak in the odd day outside in the UK as the weather changes, going to a wedding near Bath on Sat so hoping to get outside on the Sunday.
2
In reply to Ian Bell:
That's a shame - was that due to the ATC Strike? It was noticeably harder to get flights to Kos from the UK this year, even without the strikes. It was serendipitous that I'd recently moved to Belgium - I wonder what it bodes for the future, with Ryanair also ending flights to Greece earlier than usual.
> - first week of coaching was rock and sun rather than rocup in the end due to cancellation.
That's a shame - was that due to the ATC Strike? It was noticeably harder to get flights to Kos from the UK this year, even without the strikes. It was serendipitous that I'd recently moved to Belgium - I wonder what it bodes for the future, with Ryanair also ending flights to Greece earlier than usual.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Rocup said they had a large corporate group drop out which made the trip uneconomic to run, wasn't linked to the ATC strike. Kalymnos was noticeably quieter than I expected. We asked one of the restaurant owners and he estimated they'd been c20% down on usual volumes this year. He wasn't exactly sure why but did cite the Ryanair cut back as maybe being a factor.
Rocup said they had a large corporate group drop out which made the trip uneconomic to run, wasn't linked to the ATC strike. Kalymnos was noticeably quieter than I expected. We asked one of the restaurant owners and he estimated they'd been c20% down on usual volumes this year. He wasn't exactly sure why but did cite the Ryanair cut back as maybe being a factor.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan, better now. Happy Fitclub 500 everyone!
A mediocre week - though better still too busy and full of work to do much. I need to change something to get things back on track. Think on.
Mon - Nothing
Tues - Redpoint - Flashed 6a, also suprised myself by making progress on a couple of routes on the overhanging wall.
Weds - P54, S47
Thurs - Ran home from work.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing
Weight: 72.70 (-0.90)
Injury report: No significant change. Must keep doing exercises - next Osteo in a couple of weeks.
Goals:
Short Term (before November 2016). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 60 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall.
Medium Term (before September 2017): Get up a 6c at the wall. Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running. Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.
Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner
BHAG: ?
Thanks Dan, better now. Happy Fitclub 500 everyone!
A mediocre week - though better still too busy and full of work to do much. I need to change something to get things back on track. Think on.
Mon - Nothing
Tues - Redpoint - Flashed 6a, also suprised myself by making progress on a couple of routes on the overhanging wall.
Weds - P54, S47
Thurs - Ran home from work.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing
Weight: 72.70 (-0.90)
Injury report: No significant change. Must keep doing exercises - next Osteo in a couple of weeks.
Goals:
Short Term (before November 2016). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 60 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall.
Medium Term (before September 2017): Get up a 6c at the wall. Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running. Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.
Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner
BHAG: ?
In reply to Dandan:
m - 5k run - inclucing beasting myself on the 3 & 5 rise locks in Bingley
t - 10k cycling, 5k run
w - 5k run
t - 10k cycling
f - Physio, 5k run
s - Walking around Amsterdam
s - Amsterdam Half Marathon 21k, 1:55:58. A new PB, so very happy with that. Just missed my target of 1:55:30. Was about two minutes up on that at the half way stage, but I faded badly in the second half. Still, a PB is a PB and I've not picked up any injuries
Would like to pick another half and see what I can manage if I can get through an actual training program without injury. Race predictors suggest I ought to be able to manage sub 1:50, if I put the effort in!
> Hokkyokusei - Great looking week, must be nice to be back into things, good luck for the half.
m - 5k run - inclucing beasting myself on the 3 & 5 rise locks in Bingley
t - 10k cycling, 5k run
w - 5k run
t - 10k cycling
f - Physio, 5k run
s - Walking around Amsterdam
s - Amsterdam Half Marathon 21k, 1:55:58. A new PB, so very happy with that. Just missed my target of 1:55:30. Was about two minutes up on that at the half way stage, but I faded badly in the second half. Still, a PB is a PB and I've not picked up any injuries
Would like to pick another half and see what I can manage if I can get through an actual training program without injury. Race predictors suggest I ought to be able to manage sub 1:50, if I put the effort in!
1
In reply to Dandan:
Hi Dan, Reading isn't my local being based in Bristol currently. But it's the nearest wall to Oxford where my boyfriend is that is actually tolerable! I definitely found the easy routes fine, but anything a little trickier was a struggle.
M: Yoga - core and balance. some of the exercises were interesting to say the least!
T: Redpoint with hms. Flashed a 7a! hms pointed me at a v nice 7a that was the right mix of styles for me so v happy with that and FC500 goal completed!!
W: Nothing
Th: Nothing
F: Nothing
S: Cheddar - back on joyride on the Tsunami. Progress made and I now have a sequence through the tough start, and can do the rest cleanly. Now to just stick it together and get it done! Rain stopped any more attempts, and a hasty retreat was made.
S: bumble round Stroud and nearby places as I'll be moving there soon.
Hi Dan, Reading isn't my local being based in Bristol currently. But it's the nearest wall to Oxford where my boyfriend is that is actually tolerable! I definitely found the easy routes fine, but anything a little trickier was a struggle.
M: Yoga - core and balance. some of the exercises were interesting to say the least!
T: Redpoint with hms. Flashed a 7a! hms pointed me at a v nice 7a that was the right mix of styles for me so v happy with that and FC500 goal completed!!
W: Nothing
Th: Nothing
F: Nothing
S: Cheddar - back on joyride on the Tsunami. Progress made and I now have a sequence through the tough start, and can do the rest cleanly. Now to just stick it together and get it done! Rain stopped any more attempts, and a hasty retreat was made.
S: bumble round Stroud and nearby places as I'll be moving there soon.
5
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
That week was a good one. This report is much worse I'm afraid. I took a day midweek to climb outdoors that week, which was needed, but then regretted it as the second half of the week was a mess uni work wise.
So last week was one session of bouldering with the squad. We had a social evening where we all climbed together with no training plans/coaching etc then had pizza and a movie after. Surprised myself by getting all the V5/6's on the steep side (5 of them) and a V7 second go. Not sure where that came from and have a suspicion this set is a bit softer than the previous few which have been a bit fierce. My first V7 in a long while. I was pushed hard by the kids though so maybe that was it.
Got my biking in (80+ miles) so that's keeping the lard off. Falling into the trap of drinking in the evenings as a reward at the end of the day. Not a lot but something to keep an eye on and try and stop.
First exam a week on Friday so full steam ahead for that. After that hopefully a couple of weeks to do something before BOB. Max recruitment is probably the only thing worth doing in that time, along with steep ground technique.
Cheers Dan.
That week was a good one. This report is much worse I'm afraid. I took a day midweek to climb outdoors that week, which was needed, but then regretted it as the second half of the week was a mess uni work wise.
So last week was one session of bouldering with the squad. We had a social evening where we all climbed together with no training plans/coaching etc then had pizza and a movie after. Surprised myself by getting all the V5/6's on the steep side (5 of them) and a V7 second go. Not sure where that came from and have a suspicion this set is a bit softer than the previous few which have been a bit fierce. My first V7 in a long while. I was pushed hard by the kids though so maybe that was it.
Got my biking in (80+ miles) so that's keeping the lard off. Falling into the trap of drinking in the evenings as a reward at the end of the day. Not a lot but something to keep an eye on and try and stop.
First exam a week on Friday so full steam ahead for that. After that hopefully a couple of weeks to do something before BOB. Max recruitment is probably the only thing worth doing in that time, along with steep ground technique.
In reply to Dandan:
Happy 500th!
T.
I've never taken part in this, but I'm glad it's persevered for so many for so long.
Happy 500th!
T.
I've never taken part in this, but I'm glad it's persevered for so many for so long.
4
In reply to AJM:
http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/montserrat.html?m=1
> I will blog Montserrat soon.....
http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/montserrat.html?m=1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan
Bit of a late one for me this week due to some unforseen issues. I'm going to apologise in advance I don't think I will be posting next week but I will be back the week after with lots of activity done I hope.
Have now reevaluated mid term and long term goals as the winter is almost on us. I done well on over achieving my last mid term goals so hopefully the next lot will be achieved as well.
Short term goal
Weigh 80kg - tick
Run twice- fail
Climb twice - tick
Mid term goals (now till March next year)
Gain lots of winter experience
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)
Train strength by bouldering a lot and improve indoor bouldering grades from 6a to 6c. Also improve indoor lead grade from 6a+/6b to 6c+
A peak bouldering trip
Long term goal (Summer 2017)
Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season
M - rest
T - indoor bouldering
W - rest
T - indoor lead climbing up to 6b
F - rest
S - rest
S - Idwal Staircase/Continuation (Grade-3) and Cneifion Arete (D)
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks Dandan
Bit of a late one for me this week due to some unforseen issues. I'm going to apologise in advance I don't think I will be posting next week but I will be back the week after with lots of activity done I hope.
Have now reevaluated mid term and long term goals as the winter is almost on us. I done well on over achieving my last mid term goals so hopefully the next lot will be achieved as well.
Short term goal
Weigh 80kg - tick
Run twice- fail
Climb twice - tick
Mid term goals (now till March next year)
Gain lots of winter experience
Lots of hillwalking and wildcamping and gain enough experience to do my ML training next year (solid navigation, 10 hour plus Hill day)
Train strength by bouldering a lot and improve indoor bouldering grades from 6a to 6c. Also improve indoor lead grade from 6a+/6b to 6c+
A peak bouldering trip
Long term goal (Summer 2017)
Start season climbing HVS
Progress quickly to e grades and becoming solid at e1 by the end of the season
M - rest
T - indoor bouldering
W - rest
T - indoor lead climbing up to 6b
F - rest
S - rest
S - Idwal Staircase/Continuation (Grade-3) and Cneifion Arete (D)
Happy Training
Lee
Post edited at 16:20
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan! A very near miss on Jerry's within the week. I'm just about to fly to Morocco (Sunday 5am) so will miss posting for the current week, so spoiler while I am AWOL, just got it this morning Thanks to Ben for patient spotting and Si for choosing it for me. First 7A+ tick and only a bit late for FC500.
M - 1on1off and fingerboard
T - core
W - Conditioning rings and bar
T - rest
F - Climbing Unit forced boulder mileage. Love this session.
S - AM Wirksworth WBL as raining
PM poddle on Curbar and Baslow
S - Jerry's in the morning. Fell off pumped at end of crux.
PM Climbing Unit 1/2 then fun including on sighting some blues (crimpy)
Thanks Dan! A very near miss on Jerry's within the week. I'm just about to fly to Morocco (Sunday 5am) so will miss posting for the current week, so spoiler while I am AWOL, just got it this morning Thanks to Ben for patient spotting and Si for choosing it for me. First 7A+ tick and only a bit late for FC500.
M - 1on1off and fingerboard
T - core
W - Conditioning rings and bar
T - rest
F - Climbing Unit forced boulder mileage. Love this session.
S - AM Wirksworth WBL as raining
PM poddle on Curbar and Baslow
S - Jerry's in the morning. Fell off pumped at end of crux.
PM Climbing Unit 1/2 then fun including on sighting some blues (crimpy)
3
In reply to Dandan:
I suspect I've missed the cut off for Sunday's summary but I feel I ought to write something here seeing as I made a big deal of the 500th milestone. It probably goes without saying I missed my challenge 500 goals - badly. In a way it's fitting seeing as how I've still failed to fulfil my Fit Club Week 1 goals!
The last few weeks have been lost to injury, house move and work (I'm currently near the end of what will be a 70 hour week). I'm back in Lancashire so started running again (nothing this week) and also got invited to a private board where I'm getting close to some of the moves on the easiest documented problem (using extra footholds so I expect I'll soon be banned). I've also paid a few visits to a Moonboard, the first since the app has been working. If I had more time I'd start a new thread about what the f*ck is going on with V4 grade on that!
Tuesday I'm off to China for three weeks and although we've got a couple of days in Yangshao I'm not sure I'll actually climb. I'm still injured but it seems to be improving despite having failed to do any rehab.
I suspect I've missed the cut off for Sunday's summary but I feel I ought to write something here seeing as I made a big deal of the 500th milestone. It probably goes without saying I missed my challenge 500 goals - badly. In a way it's fitting seeing as how I've still failed to fulfil my Fit Club Week 1 goals!
The last few weeks have been lost to injury, house move and work (I'm currently near the end of what will be a 70 hour week). I'm back in Lancashire so started running again (nothing this week) and also got invited to a private board where I'm getting close to some of the moves on the easiest documented problem (using extra footholds so I expect I'll soon be banned). I've also paid a few visits to a Moonboard, the first since the app has been working. If I had more time I'd start a new thread about what the f*ck is going on with V4 grade on that!
Tuesday I'm off to China for three weeks and although we've got a couple of days in Yangshao I'm not sure I'll actually climb. I'm still injured but it seems to be improving despite having failed to do any rehab.
1
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